p24-1953

heres a link to a video question. http://s182.photobucket.com/albums/x117/ykp53/?action=view&current=VIDEO0067.mp4 since i shot this video i have tested the radiator and when the lower hose is removed i do get a stream of water about 6-7" high like the man. states so i think it is good. And i have removed the bottom two freeze blugs and they were clean. i did notice that my water pump did not turn freely so i will comapr it against the new one coming tommorow. maybe i was getting poor circulation due to that. I am pretty sure i will leave the tube, unless i hear a compeling reason to fight it.

The rubber top to my screw adjusted hood stops has melted. Does any one know what tread count and diameter these are? Silly question how do you measure this? do most people have a guage or something. typically i got to the hardware store and use the trial and error approach, but thats hard to do as a mail order.

Don now you got me wondering but a search turned up nothin.... I was searching for Ford starter solid. What should I be looking for?

so as i start to replace parts from the fire i remove whats left of the lower radiator hose and found what looks to be solder in the bottom of the neck. I removed a dozen pieces that look like this. So, I guess this means the radiator got hot enough to melt the solder. But it was still holding water. Should i have the radiator tested and possibly repaired or should i look for an after market aluminum version. which will cool better? has any one had their original radiator recored rescently? if you dont mind me asking what did it run?

where's the best place to get the p o r 15 ? is it any better than standard engine paint ? Were the firewalls always body color ?

The fire destroyed the hydrive decals on the oil filler cap. Does any one know where to get new ones orif any one has a clean photo of theirs so I can try to duplicate them

It didnt look this blue on screen, but the bigger thing is just how cheap it looks.

does the old bracket come off the coil? it seems to be fixed to the case..

well i got the new coil, since the other was in the fire. need less to say i was a little disapointed with the look of the new one. the last one on the car was a metal canister with the braket made to it and painted mopar part number on it. this one is a plastic tube... its not even black, who wants a blue coil? so how do i find a vintage apperaing coil? Or even how do i determine if mine old one survived the heat and fire or is DOA.

lou do you drive your taxi much, if i remember right you drive to macon often, but i didnt know which old car it was in.

does tim adams normally refer to himself in third person?

thanks for the info

What modifications will need to be made to a 6vlt overdrive setup when converting to 12 volt?

We get plenty of gosple, talk radio, and sports on our a/m no picking music though..... That and i have a ipod hard wired into the radio. in casei get tired of rush or niel.

Is this possible? i know it would still have to be + ground, but is there a good resistor to handle the step down?

As I was picking at my pealing paint a noticed that there is a tan/ yellow paint coat under the " original" paint and I am wondering if its primer or if I have had a repair at some point pre 1965

What was the color of the factor primer? ( its for a 53)

I tried to talk to them and provide them with a list of parts and prices that need to be replaced. no luck. So i asked to speaak to a manager, questioned why they were acting one way when they have a printed policy that states another. Wanted to know if they would pay for 6 seperate tow trips to 6 differnet shops ( 3 mechanics / 3 body shops) since they were unwilling to work with me. After i got calmed down.... the manager agreed that the apraiser did not do a suffeciant job because there were items he could see from the photographs the apraiser took that were damaged that were not being funded to replace. they agreeed to send another appraiser back out, and if that number did not meet my approval they would pay for the extra towing trips.

Well i talked to them again and it seems that they are hesitant to increasing the damages with out having a shop do the work. the battery is clearly damaged as are the hoses and all engine rubber, but they are unwilling to increase the payout and cover these items unless a shop completes the work. They then informed me that if i get close to the 70% agreed value they would total the car. I informed them I was trying to keep the price low by completing some of the work myself but I would need to at least be reinbursed for parts, but it fell on deaf ears. i have now asked for a manager to contact me. i really dont understand why they wont allow "us" the car owner to work on the cars.

does the water distribution tube become cloged w/ rust or what? i have water flowing through the block because the heater core gets warm, but i do run hot. i was planning on removing the "freeze" plugs and clean as much of the block as possible but was wondering what prevented you from removing the water pump and cleaning the dist tube out rather than fighting to replace it. would a reverse flush help break things up? or a small run with vinager to help loosen everything prior to removing the plugs.

is there a listing of what the factory correct colors are for everything under the hood on a 53 plymouth? does any one have a good color pic to help me out?

well I got the preliminary letter back from the insurance agent on the repairs to the fire damage to the 53. They say there is about 30 hours of repairs equaling 1,300 dollars damage to the paint and hood and both fenders. They are allowing 7 hours to rewire the car. The wire harness is toast up to the dash. They are only planning on paying for new spark plug wires and a wire harness. So here are my questions. Is that enough time for auto body repair? What is the going hourly rate? Is that enough time for a shop to rewire a car from the dash forward? What additional items should be replaced in the engine. Just for safety sake after a fire, belts, carb rebuild? ( I know that both radiator hoses are busted, fuel filter and line, coil, the battery is somewhat melted and the fan relay is melted, I don’t know if the A/C lines are damaged)

well today i got a better look at everything. (granted everything is still covered in white powder and soot until the appraisers get here) 1.)it appears that the fire was mostly at the front passenger side. the fuel filter and first 2 spark plug wires are gone. 2.)the new sision choke i just installed looks blackened but okay (it is yet to be tested) 3.)the radiator hoses and rubber hood to radiator piece is gone, so is the heater box. 4.)carb and air filter look to be okay. 5.)it looks like the tie rods and suspension parts are okay. 6.)driver side of the engine doesn't seem to have any major fire damage, other than the original jiffy jet washer bottle is shattered. 7.)Odd thing is both radiator hoses are gone but he belts are still intact. 8.)Spark plug wires are all intact at the coil and distributor, but i will open the distributor to make sure the internals are okay. the wires leading to both of them are completely gone. 9.) unfortunately it appears that in the heat of the fire shorted out something and all the under hood wiring is toast, and some of the under dash wiring also. most of the insulation is gone or the bundled wires have merged into one. So i will have to rewire yet again. so.... Here are my questions. a.)could the localized heat to the passenger side damaged the block, intake, exhaust, or valves in anyway? should i replace all gaskets to be safe? b.) will FEC powder kill an alternator/water pump or a/c compressor? Are these safe to reuse. c.) Any tips on getting the FEC powder out of the a/c condenser and radiator grills? d.) I have to get the car running under its own power to get in in to my garage. What is the absolute minimum wiring that is required (which will have to be done on the street) to get the car to fire up and run. from the starter solenoid can i run a wire thru a switch to the negative terminal of the coil and by pass the dash and all other wire's? I would need to short the starter solenoid to turn the car over but it should run correct? I know i will also need a ground to the block, startercables and ground the distributor. i plan on running a new fuel line connecting the 2 hard lines at the missing fuel pump, installing a older coil i have laying around, hard wiring the choke 75% closed and driving the car with no coolant for the 500 yard sit will require. Does this sound like it will work?

what would you like for the hood?

i am covered by hagerty we will see how they do. i hadnt hought aobut engine mounts, thats a good one.