wallytoo

so an aftermarket ignition switch, and no more "foot pedal" starter engagement?

i believe that deleting attachments also deletes them from the original posts.

the dashboard chrome center trim is also from a ‘51 or ‘52. a ‘53 has d-o-d-g-e rather than the plate. the wiper switch is also ‘51/‘52. the ‘53 switch is round.

and another ride-along, this time from the passenger side perspective...

here's a compilation of videos showing the split shifting of the eaton with the spur gear 4speed. split shifting the eaton and spur geared NP

working on it. uploading vids to yootoob right now showing the shifting with the 2-speed, from the passenger seat perspective. audio isn't great (the digital camera isn't as good as the iphone for that), but you can see the "action" clearly. not very exciting (you'll see). edit: here's the workings of the 2-speed eaton shift components.

usually only relevant with a key switch that has "start" and "run" positions. the oem key switch would only have the "run" position, as the starter was activated via the foot pedal. however, if a new key switch was installed to utilize a key start feature, that would be a good place to look.

lol. coincidentally, i fixed that yesterday.

that’s a wheel chock. mostly used on the steep hill where i collect sap during sugaring season. stores nicely there.

use a drift and a hammer to tap it counterclockwise, it will back off. then, when you reinstall it, don't use a tool, just finger tight. mine have never had an issue since i initially used that method to remove them when i purchased the truck in 2007. nearly 10k miles later, the caps stay where they should, and i can remove them without tools.

here are two more showing the general hoist operation and components: pto operation pto & hoist components

been a while. found some more things:

maybe on a day where it isn’t raining. we’ve had ridiculous rain since july first; nearly 40”. yeah, four-zero.

yes, but acetone won’t ruin it, which was the concern expressed by the OP.

the horn button plastic? otherwise, the wheel itself is bakelite.

here's a picture of mine, which does have an eaton 1350 2-speed, in 5.83 and 8.11 ratios.

a short video of a drive i took along a woods road today, with a good load on the dump body. https://youtu.be/1oCyO8fMRw8

not in these trucks, they didn't. late b-3 series large trucks, and all b-4 series large trucks did away with the stepped bore, yet retained the pinned brakes.

and yes, the bore matches the larger bore of the former stepped cylinder i replaced.

it’s a 14000 lb gvw vehicle. any difference has been too minor to notice.

i switched to non-stepped bores in the 1.5-ton. zero problems. as far as engineering goes, stepped bores went the way of left threaded lugnuts, it wasn’t needed.

the good news is it’s far easier to go up through the gears than down. you can get used to the motions working your way up, then just come to a stop and do it again. to go up, i let off the gas and press the clutch, move the stick to neutral and release the clutch and then quickly push the clutch pedal back down, and then glide the stick into the next higher gear. no throttle applied during the procedure (you will need to use the throttle when downshifting). i virtually never downshift into second while moving, and never into first. going into third from forth isn’t too hard to get used to. on the other hand, i’ve had experience with non-synchro transmissions since 1985, so i’ve had some practice.

fwiw, i run a multi-grade non-synthetic gear oil in the 2-speed eaton on my B-1-FA here in new england, and i run it year round. thick is good in my book; sticks to the gear surfaces.

yup. my dinosaur self can't wrap my head around 0w-16 oil, or anything like that. and i have a hard time picturing many of the vehicles manufactured today even being able to be operated in 30 years because of all the gadgetry and computer-related controls, nevermind 70 years from now.

what? who’s attacking jeff?