Jeff Balazs

Thanks for your input Dave. I was above that sort of number last I checked but now that it has some miles on it I need to check again. I would ideally like to stay with the flathead. It has been very reliable and has a lot of character. I am just trying to assess what work is going to be required to get the most out of it versus swapping in something else. So far I have looked at changing the rear axle ratio to 3.73......$800 to $900 to have it done by local shops. Headers and split exhaust.......probably $700 because I went with a SS system initially. Dual carbs and new manifold ........Around $600 Shave the head .....about $100 T5 tranny swap......probably $4000 by the time I have all I need Lose the Fluid drive.....? just a guess but probably $2000 or so by the time that is done And I have not even added in the cost to rebuild the engine when required. Jeff

There is a 57 COE 500 on the orange county C/L right now. Looks pretty solid for $5000 Jeff

I am reluctant only because I don't have the money or time to go after this 2 or 3 times. Honestly I am not looking for perfection.....it just needs to safe and reliable in traffic. Right now I have to push it hard to be able to keep up and even then it falls short. That is not safe in my book. Jeff

Well Ray.......I won't be replacing this truck with anything else so I guess your just stuck with me. Some compression numbers would be helpful as I am trying to assess the condition of this engine that I revived rather than rebuilt. I am trying to gauge how far down on power it may be. The bottom line is that it is my daily driver and needs to be able to keep up with the traffic and conditions I have to face. Jeff

I have considered this. But there is a fair amount of work and expense involved to do just this conversion. And for potentially very little gain. I think in the long run if I am going to put a lot of work into this I would be better off with a small V8 and a modern automatic. And maybe that is the best answer for me? There is a part of me that just wants to be able to get in it and go where I want without having to plan out the route. . Perhaps it is just wishful thinking to consider hopping up the engine that is in it? I was hoping to get by with bolt on stuff rather than fabrication etc..but then I would still be stuck with no synchro in 2nd. I guess I could live with that if I didn't have to tear the entire truck apart......but if I do too much and not get what I want out of it then I won't be a very happy camper. Jeff

Bob; Thanks for your input. Not sure what all would be involved with that swap besides moving the radiator forward? Would I have to lose the fluid drive? Also I have never seen any of these larger displacement engine cores in the area.....I suppose they are out there but I have never come across one in the 4 years I have had the truck. Jeff

Hey Guy's; What sort of compression numbers should you expect to see on a freshly rebuilt 218 or 230? How about with a shaved head? I am attempting to assess the future of my trucks engine situation. I would really like to have some more power on tap and am thinking about either going to split headers, better manifold and carbs and shaving the head a bit or possibly putting in a V8 and different transmission. I would prefer to stay with the existing set up. So what I am trying to do is assess the actual condition of this engine and how much power I might be able to gain with a rebuild and the kind of mods I have mentioned here. I would think that if I could gain say 25hp that this would make a substantial difference in the way the old truck performs. This engine is a 54 230 truck engine and currently runs well. One thought I have had is to begin by making the mods to the exhaust and intake systems and see if I get enough of a gain in power to go further with it. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have on this. Jeff

Hey Guy's; What sort of compression numbers should you expect to see on a freshly rebuilt 218 or 230? How about with a shaved head? I am attempting to assess the future of my trucks engine situation. I would really like to have some more power on tap and am thinking about either going to split headers, better manifold and carbs and shaving the head a bit or possibly putting in a V8 and different transmission. I would prefer to stay with the existing set up. So what I am trying to do is assess the actual condition of this engine and how much power I might be able to gain with a rebuild and the kind of mods I have mentioned here. I would think that if I could gain say 25hp that this would make a substantial difference in the way the old truck performs. This engine is a 54 230 truck engine and currently runs well. One thought I have had is to begin by making the mods to the exhaust and intake systems and see if I get enough of a gain in power to go further with it. I would appreciate any thoughts you may have on this. Jeff

Are you certain it is not getting a spark? I have this issue when it is very warm like right now. It is not a lack of spark....... it is heat soak from the dumb manifold design and modern fuel. Try pulling out the throttle when starting hot.....works a treat. Don't blame the Pertronics trigger it is probably just fine. Mine is. Jeff

No problem......just thought it would be another option to some following this thread. I have not decided exactly how I want to address this situation in my truck yet. Right now I feel like going for a bit more power out of the old flatty.......and then maybe have the 3.55 ring and pinion swapped to a 3.73 if that is not enough of a boost. The other option would be to pull the old stuff out and swap in something more powerful and probably with an automatic. After having driven this truck for a while I really don't see why it could not handle a healthy V8. It rides and handles much better than any other solid axle truck I have ridden in. Jeff

That is an interesting solution you have come up with. I don't suppose you have any photos of this during the build? Jeff

Paul.........how about CPF? Would that be more to your liking? PP is not so bad........used to know someone that had the handle Shi##y. And the name fit. . . .Jeff . ( CPF = Corrosion Prevention Failure)

Yes that looks correct for that style housing. Jeff

Jan; If you are patient and have the time you may find the parts. It is probably going to be here in North America though. Things being what they are. I went the Grand Cherokee route as I wanted to upgrade the brakes to 4 wheel disc's at the same time. The braking system is excellent.....but the 3.55 ratio axle I chose is a bit too tall for my 52 3/4 ton Pilothouse truck. Even with a very good running later 230 engine. 3.73 ratio would have been better and is probably in my near future. Just so you know the Cherokee rear axles are a bit narrower than the stock axle and require the use of wheel spacers. No big deal.....but just so you know if you end up going that way. Also....I was able to use my drive shaft without any modifications. Jeff

My luck ....or lack of it......is the reasoning behind the Cherokee axle suggestion. You might get lucky and find what you are looking for. Being in the right place at the right time helps. It also depends on how long you might want to or be able to wait for the correct parts. Jeff

I was thinking more along the lines of a Dana 35 which is found in a lot of 2wd Cherokee's. I believe 3.73 ratio was a pretty common set up. Doesn't do you any good though if it is harder to find than a set of stock ring and pinion gears. And you would need to verify the width for the specific truck you have. Again just an idea for an alternative fix. Jeff

Certainly that has to be a problem for anyone with one of these in Europe. I had heard that there were quite a few Cherokee's exported hence the suggestion. Maybe that is not the case? Just an idea anyway.

Perhaps.......but might be easier to find than the gear set to fit the original housing.???

If you do not find what you are looking for the rear axle from a Jeep Cherokee is a pretty easy swap in. They are available in 3.73.

I am curious why the ignition needs to be interrupted on this type of set up? Seems like something that has the capacity to cause problems......at least with the trigger system. Jeff

Ok you have a ignition lead coming from your ignition switch going into the trigger. Then the lead off the trigger goes to the negative side of the coil. The positive side of the coil is a lead to ground. That is all there is to it. No other wires needed including distributor ground. Pay attention to the wire size as it should not be more than I believe 18ga. Jeff

Thank you Bobacuda. That looks like the ticket and according to their web site they make a desert cooler version. Jeff

I used a bar type puller. It worked just fine. Sometimes the key may be what holds it in place and works against you. Jeff

Tim; Don't do it! It is a slippery slope. Besides you could wind up like PP...... Jeff

When I have run into stubborn stuff like this I have had good luck using repeated cycles of heat. Also some penetrating oils work better than others. I like the stuff made by PB Blaster. Try using the oil between the heat cycles. Good luck, Jeff