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Everything posted by austinsailor
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somewhere I've seen a setup where the flathead had three sidedraft carbs mounted over the head on curved intake pipes. I don't know yet what sort of intake I'm going to put on mine, but that seems like an interesting option. it seems fairly simple, but I don't know anything about these and wouldn't know how to select things. I suppose figure cfm of both and find a close match. but I'd probably start looking for something rare when another similar one would be common. anyone know about this type setup? is it practical for a street car?
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But you'd have more fun per mile, so you might be ahead.
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Atlas - Allstate. Did I miss something?
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It's a very poor copy, but here's an article on how to read the date codes: http://austinsailor.net/tires/tires.html
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1939 Plymouth P7 Roadking Steering Box
austinsailor replied to Richard Coney's topic in P15-D24 Forum
chances are your gears are gouged from most likely running with no or wrong grease. pull the pitman arm, take the bolts out of the top cover and push the sector gear/shaft up through the top. not a big job, easy to put back, and you can tell exactly what shape they are in. new worm and sector gears are around, but might be pricey. it's possible the bearings are at fault, but the 5 or so I've taken apart that met your description all had good bearings and bad gears. -
Full flow oil filter on 251 truck motor?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I never found anything in the archives, but my NAPA store went in back and came back with a remote mount for the filter, one that takes a great big spin on filter. Add two lines from the block to the filter and back and I'm done. cost about $37 for the mount and filter, hoses will be extra. I had in mind one that would fit on the block like the cartridge one does, but I once had a Ford Escort diesel and both filters were mounted up on the frame, so this doesn't seem so strange. -
found a 91 s10 w/ t5, anyone want it?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
Well, it has real deep dish wheels on it, so they wouldn't be deep in the wheel wells. 'Course, those wheels wouldn't look at all like a b1b. -
I ended up with a '91 108" wheelbase S10 this week. I was going to fix a couple things and resell it to someone as a work truck , but it occurred to me that it's probably what some of you want to put your sheet metal on. I was going to fix the e-brake cable and clutch cylinder and expect to get about $750 for it, but if someone wants it for their chassis let me know soon and it's yours for $500. Deliver might be worked out depending on where it is going. Rough body, but that would go to the shredder for your use, 4 cylinder, clear Missouri title. If nobody is interested I'll probably make the repairs and have it on Craigslist next week. Oh, it's in Central Missouri.
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Spindle interchange - D100 to B4B
austinsailor replied to Bobacuda's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
I once tried this by putting 54 Dodge brakes on a 35 Dodge coupe. There is a lot more to worry about than will they fit. Slight differences in angles between the kingpin and spindle, for instance. Difference in distance on steering arm bolts. Check everything closely before doing anything not reversable. -
What may not be obvious is the horizantal line about half way down the stud is a crack going all around the corner. the entire corner was lifting on addition to the crack going out from the hole.
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I mentioned a couple days ago that there was a crack in my block we found after it was done. It wasn't real clear until it was decked. I first looked into getting it welded, but that is expensive and has a good chance of cracking again. I took it by a friend who's built race motors for 25 years and he suggested tapping the bottom of the hole and using a stud instead of a bolt. In the pictures you'll see the crack running around the corner about at the bottom of where the bold ended. We ended up drilling it a little deeper and tapping it to the bottom of the hole. It now goes as deep as the stud goes where I'm holding it. Plenty far into good metal and should not be a problem. I'll "v" the crack a bit and use some JB Weld to insure no water leaks.
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After looking at Don's pictures and studying both blocks I think it will clear the filter. the desoto mount where the tube screws in is a little inboard and a bit higher than the truck block. I also noticed the pan gasket is notched where it is on the truck block, although neither pan is. it looks like I can cut a notch in the pan, weld a piece around it, and re-mark the dipstick and I'll be good to go.
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Since we're off topic anyway, I'll add a little. I am now in the boondocks of Missouri, but spent 20+ years in Austin designing computers. To add to the Broken Spoke, when it was built, maybe early 60's, it was way out in the boondocks. It's now nearly downtown Austin. It didn't move, but the city limits moved maybe 15 miles? About 10 years ago or so it was about to fall down. It was an old wooden structure, 4 by 4's holding up a roof built to no code (after all, it was out in the boonies) and was leaking, rotting, and nearly to fall down. Couldn't be repaired and rebuilding wouldn't resemble the Broken Spoke. So, what to do? Build a new metal building over it, leave the original just as it was. Most of the big names play there - Jerry Jeff, Willie, Waylan, Geezinslaws (they may not be big where you are, but in Texas Sam and Son are big), Kinky Friedman - and any of them might just show up as a spectator any night. And get coaxed onto the stage. I've never personally met Ray Benson (I have the others I've mentioned) but a good friend of mine and he are best friends. Mike told me recently that Although Ray is a well known performer, what is not well known is he is one of the biggest producers around, and has guided many of the top names to become just that. He tells me he's just an all around nice guy who helps anyone trying to get their start. And, although I know they exist, in all the honkytonks I've been to I've never seen a chicken wire covered stage.
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the desoto has no provisions for the full flow filter and the hole isn't in the same place, just near it. obviously it misses the pan on the desoto, but with the desoto dipstick, Desoto dipstick tub and Desoto pan on the truck block it hits the mounting flange of the pan. I could cut a notch in the flange of the pan and weld it up but I wouldn't be able to use the full flow filter.
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There is a plug in that general area, but the dipstick hits the pan flange if you go through it, and will be in the way of the full flow filter housing.
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As I started to clean up parts for my 251 truck motor I'm overhauling for my 42 Plymouth 2 door it occurred to me that the truck pan is front sump, the car rear. No problem, I pulled the pan and pickup off a 48 Desoto motor I have and it'll put things in the right place. Except the dipstick. The truck dipstick is in the pan, the Desoto is in the block. With this combination, I have none. At this point I plan to cut the dipstick part out of the truck pan and graft it into the Desoto pan. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I suppose I need to make sure it won't clash with steering box or other things. Other than that, any ideas? Oh, I also realized the truck has the motor mount bolts on the bottom and they go directly into the frame. But I have another inner part from behind the timing chain that has the mounts on top and will get it back to the Plymouth setup.
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It's not the only one. I have the smaller version, the 331. Which happens to be the same as the hemi of the same vintage. Try explaining to parts man after parts man that, no, it's not that motor, that is a hemi. "But a 331 is what you asked about". Many of them don't even grasp what a flathead is.
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I take it that's a "yes"?
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a local guy has a 413 industrial in some piece of junk, has had it for many years, has let it sit till it's stuck. I'd love to start with that instead of the 331 I have, but he won't part with it. Maybe one of these days. would it be worth grabbing if the opportunity came up?
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Got my block back, and I think the price of machine work was very reasonable. I'm curious how it compares to others experiences. They bored it, sleeved one cylinder, fitted the pistons, ground the crank, did a valve job, re-sleeved the valve guides fitted new bearings for the cam, decked the block, milled the head, reconditioned the rods and installed new wrist pin bushings, installed the freeze plugs and boiled everything clean. $561. I furnished the wrist pin bushings, they furnished the freeze plugs and sleeve. Is this typical? On another front, I bought a big (30") truck motor recently. I was concerned that if I had to go through it I'd never find bearings for it. He told me if I tear it down to take real good care of the inserts, they can send them off, have them re-coated with babbitt, then line bore it and salvage everything. I had no idea you could do this.
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Full flow oil filter on 251 truck motor?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Does anyone make an adapter for a spin on filter for these? That would be the best of all worlds, to be able to just put on a big spin on like my Dodge diesel has, or something similar. -
Full flow oil filter on 251 truck motor?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in P15-D24 Forum
You guys are great! I figured I'd eventually get this figured out, but I didn't think it would be almost instantaneous. -
Full flow oil filter on 251 truck motor?
austinsailor replied to austinsailor's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Yes, it looks like that. And I am interested in getting one. Gene -
I went by the shop today and my 251 truck motor is ready to be picked up. All the machine work is done, it's looking good. One corner of the block was cracked where the bolt goes in, but we found a workaround with no welding involved. But that is another story. My machinist tells me it is designed to take a full flow oil filter, and it looks to me like he is right. On the block side, around the pressure relief valve area, is a diamond shaped machined area. I will get pictures tomorrow afternoon, but he says that the top and bottom holes in this diamond shaped area are the output of the oil pump and the input to the oil galley. Right now I just don't recall what was there. I'm sure when I go through all my parts it'll come back to me, but I know it was not a filter. It had the usual bypass filter hanging on the side of the motor. Now to the question - what do I need to put a full flow filter on this thing? I'm assuming someone knows more than me and can figure out what the heck I'm talking about. It sure appears that it was designed to take one. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
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Anyone interested in a 1948 3 window dodge
austinsailor replied to 38Plyroadking's topic in P15-D24 Forum
That looks like a heck of a deal, If it was closer, or if I didn't have so many projects already I'd be all over that. I could probably overcome one or the other, but both together is just too much. Darn the luck. I went all the way north of Winnipeg last year for a truck, so distance isn't that big a deal, but with more than I'll ever finish, too ..........