austinsailor

When you say a bit more, are you saying even more that .125? How safe is .1? .125?

I'm working my way through this 251 I'm rebuilding. With my Fargo head, removing .010 from the block, and .100 from the head, I figure the ratio at apx 8 to 1. Is it safe to remove this much? I'd like to get the compression up even more, do I dare take even more off? I seem to recall reading even more has been removed with success, like .125. This would give about 8.4 to 1. I have a pretty hot cam grind coming from Earl Edgerton, I'd like to make this thing at least act like it's something special. Thoughts or experience?

30 weight is what I use. I bought a drum, 55 gallons, for about $430. I seem to recall mine is CH, current is CJ. CH still had the old higher amounts of zinc, the CJ is less. There is a lot of controversy as to whether it matters in our old trucks. But, at under $8 a gallon and get the zinc, it was a simple choice for me.

Someone has offered me a newer Dodge power wagon, somewhat of a brute of a truck. One ton dually, V8, 4 wheel drive. Runs and drives well, no brakes. $1000. What's a guy to do?

I've used Rotella in several old motors I've brought back to life in the recent past. All smoked for a little while, but after an hour or two, smoothed out, no more smoke. First oil change or two were pretty dirty but it got cleaner. I think it cleans things out and is better. Just my opinion. Not to start a new argument, but the newest version of Rotella ( "J", I think) has a far smaller amount of the zinc additive than past versions. Some people think our flatheads don't care, some do. I bought a drum of the old version that still had the full amount to hold me for some time. Bottom line, my opinion is it will clean things out and it'll run cleaner, and will up compression by cleaning out the old gunk from rings.

I understand that '51 started the extra hole. My '51 Fargo 228 has the extra hole, my earlier 251 mystery motor I'm rebuilding does not. Fargo has a smaller combustion chamber, so it'll be higher compression compared to the original 251 head for the same amount of milling. Only question is, can I use the later head on the earlier block, I think the answer is yes, using the later gasket. Correct?

I've got one of those in a parts truck. Didn't know it was special. Guess I should pull it and clean it up. Are they suitable for any of the pilothouses, or only certain ones?

>To attach the cable requires a clamp on the transmission and a special >bolt to connect the end of cable to the lever. If you do not have these >parts, maybe 5th ave net garage has them. My transmission has both those in it. Is there anything else I'll need? It has the governor, back up lockout switch (minus screws) and solenoid.

Thanks guys. Either one looks like it would work fine. I'll order one Monday. I'm anxious to see how it works.

I need a cable for "new" overdrive. I can buy a generic cable with a small knob, but there must be a better choice. I think it should have a big knob for one thing. What are you guys using? Thanks.

He specifically said the 3 ton truck, which is an entirely different motor. I also noticed he said the early motors had 4 bolt crank flanges, later ones had 8. heavier trucks and fluid drive had 8. I don't think it had much to do with year of manufacture. Bottom line is you should get a second opinion or check closely before blindly following something like this. The turning of the oil grove in the main bearing seems to make sense, but I have to wonder about increased oil flow vs lost bearing surface area. Part of the problem is that many people assumeif you're published, you're an expert and know it all. I know this from personal experience. I have maybe 30+ articles published in the sailing/sailboat cruising area. You'd be shocked how many people want my advise and insist I know it all since I have many articles published. This includes people who've sailed around the world and have years and thousansds of miles more experience than I do.

I know you can use the later head gasket (with the extra hole) on the earlier motor. Can you use the later head and head gasket on the earlier motor? It'll block off that extra water hole, but will it hurt anything? Has anyone actually done it?

I was feeling pretty good about the article Reg posted until I read the part about Dodge truck engines with dual carbs in the 3 tons being a good choice for the dodge car motors as an upgrade. The Dodge engine is 23" (25' in some trucks) The 3 ton is a 6 intake port, (not 3) 30" long motor, and it is not even remotely close. For him to say it works well loses all his credibility.

That is a whole different animal, though. It is intended to keep the rear centered under the car. Otherwise the axle would move side to side in relation to the body as the shackles swung. I seem to recall the older ones (probably yours originally) didn't have that. I had a 47 Coupe not to long ago and it was quite a wallering thing going down the road with the springs going side to side. I'm guessing that without that bar, the older ones were quite exciting to drive! I got rid of the F**d. Since I was a teenager those were the sought after cars. Hot rods and all that. A few years ago I bought one at a local auction. Didn't need much, but what an education it was. In 1909 Henry had some state of the art ideas. In 1947 he was still using most of them, unimproved (except maybe for adding that bar) and it was so out of date and weird to work on after a lifetime of mopar stuff I had to get rid of it.

That's excellent info. I can deal with that. I'll most likely be the only one who drives it, so no big deal. My wife, in her 50's, has no idea how to drive a column shift, if you can believe that, and she's the only other one who would have driven it. I like this much better than trying to fit a T5 into it.

It looks like what I'm missing is the kickdown switch. Anyone have a part number on a replacement? What is the switch function, or does anyone have a drawing showing the functioning inside?

You don't have to cut the firewall, you move the radiator forward 2".

As you've probably figured out, it wasn't the shaft I changed. But I have on some in the past and I don't think it ever mattered. On a ring and pinion it will, but I have never heard of it mattering in a transmission. I would not be concerned.

>You can bypass the electrical functions but you will run into >trouble as has already been said. I'm just trying to make sure it works. I put it in my 40 Dodge sedan, pretty much stock, to make sure it was functional. Except for kicking into overdrive, one trip down the road a mile says it is in great shape. I'd ike to make a test run with that working. I will put it into my 42 Plymouth when I get the 251 finished. It's now in the machine shop, pistons will be here next week, cam went to Edgy this morning. I'm pretty sure the 42 Plymouth has a 4:10. I'll set it up with all the proper stuff when it goes into it's final home. By the way, thanks for the pointer to the manual on it. It makes it much easier to understand what is going on. Still leaves some questions about the details of the wiring, but I've got time to figure that out.

Yes, not the shaft, but the aluminum housing around the shaft. tiny bit bigger, the throwout bearing retainer won't go over it. But, no strange sounds, shifts like a new one. I took the side cover off and it looks new inside. I'm really pleased.

You could move to Texas. After dark you can use lethel force (shoot to kill) to stop a thief or stop criminal mischief. this include TP ing your trees. Drastic, but would stop it.

so does it need both the cable and selenoid to go into overdrive? the cable operated lever lets it freewheel but without overdrive. It seems a bit more complicated than it would need to be. The only thing better than the "man alive, put her in overdrive" was the little Nash Rambler trying to get it out of second gear.

Now that I have this overdrive installed I need to figure out all the hookups. 3 electrical, one mechanical. I Assume the selenoid takes it in and out of overdrive. if I wanted, could I just run 6 volts to it and bypass everything else? what does the plugin called shift rail lockout do? what does the governer do? the freewheeling lever would appear to be freewheeling when the cable is pushed in, which would be backwards from what I would expect. I would have thought pushed in would be the default without freewheeling. this would be sort of like pulling the choke out to not be choking.

Opened up the tranny, it looked new inside. Stuck it in my '40 Dodge sedan this afternoon, it's great! syncros are like new, shifts great and the freewheeling function works fine. I still have to hook up the electrics, but I have no doubt it'll be fine. It was not a bolt in deal, though, as I'd heard. I fought it for a while and just couldn't get it to slip in the clutch. finally pulled it out and found the snout that the throwout bearing rides on was about 1/16" bigger. Swapped them and it went right in. I have questions about the various electrical aspects, but I'll start a thread about that.

thanks. I'll probably stick it in my old '40 Dodge tomorrow and see how it does.