austinsailor

I have a 42 2 door sedan. I thought it would be impossible to find parts, after all, they made far fewer than other years. What I found was, there are a lot of parts and few buyers. Anything specific to that year, like badges, gauges, door handles find few other bidders. I got all new gauges and a speedometer new in the boxes, dash and grill badges, most everything, all at reasonable prices. Good luck, it's a cool car.

I'm curious. Several times in the previous posts it's mentioned that fluid drive is not a transmission. I guess that is kinda sorta true, but the transmission isn't a 3 speed standard, it's more of an automatic. So, if you aren't going to call the transmission that is specific to the fluid drive setup a fluid drive transmission, what are we calling it? I do realize the early ones were just 3 speeds with a fluid coupler between the clutch and motor, but by the time this Chrysler was made they were a whole different animal that had automatic shifting.

Towards the end of September I'm headed to Montana to pick up a couple cars. (Not MOPARS, but Gardeners) If you have a roller that needs to go that way and it's not too far out of my way it could ride along. A little gas money would be nice, but I'm not looking to make anything from it. It's a big trailer, so it can be a big truck, too. Send a pm or reply here.

Your only problem is you found a clerk who doesn't know what the hell they are doing. That was the way most cars were registered back then. I've registered half a dozen in Mo. that way. These are Missouri specific things, but I'd be surprised if you can't do the same in most states. 1. I've had a state trouper come verify the numbers, VIN and motor, and fill out a simple form to change the registered VIN from the motor to the frame number before I went to title it. Cost? $0.00. 2. Since motor numbers were usually how they were registered back then (before about 1925 Model T Fords only had a motor # - what would Nevada do with that?!) you filled out a form, signed by the guy who changed the motor, and for a $2 fee, they change the #. The law is still on the books here, and it doesn't require a "master mechanic" or anyone else special to sign the form. I've done about every off the wall thing here the law allows here with licensing and registering, but haven't personally done this yet. I am keeping it in reserve, though, in case I end up with a car that is registered by the motor number, was changed and not updated. It would be crazy to go through the bonding process and expense, or to go back to California because some clerk doesn't know what they are doing.

Generators aren't expected to charge at idle. That was one of the big selling points when they came out with alternators in the 50's. Back then, before alternators were common, some vehicles that spent a lot of time idling, like police cars, were converted to alternators for just that reason.

Texas would title it as what the frame is, Missouri would title it as what the body is. You need to find out how it's done where you are.

Hearing the condition of the cylinders, no question, replace the shoes. I'm actually surprised on or more linings haven't come loose already, but the will soon. I've taken apart a number of older ones like that and about half have just come off. With the effort you're putting into it, another $100 to make it right is a no brainer. There isn't even any extra labor involved. Gene

We're about 125 miles west of St. Louis. Just lots of rain here. Lots. Gene

Can I assume a 42 is the same? I have a 42 Plymouth. What do you have?? Gene

Most any spring shop should be able to make you one. It's not that pricey.

He said he'd restored one a couple years ago and it brought $185k at Barrett Jackson. He also said it takes $100k to get it on that shape. My question is, who buys them?

Guy from Branson, Mo, a professional restoration guy. He said if anyone from Sweeden had been there it would have been over $40k. Gene

Well, my credibility is shot. $33k.

Car sells in 1 hour. About what I describes above. Re painted, not the best, no do behind rr wheel, I'd say $6k, but there are 6 car trailers/wedge trucks here and one car. Including one classic car company. I predict $15k. Gene

There are more pictures on the web, along with a walk around video.

Looking at all the pictures, it needs paint, rechroming of the tail light housings and bumpers, recover the seats and a good cleanup of the undercarraige. That is without seeing it in person. With all that, add probably $10K of work, it would probably be a $20K to $25K car. My guess on selling price? $15K. Still, I wouldn't be embarrassed to be seen in it! Gene

I'm guessing it'll be decided for me. It's been advertised quite a bit, and I doubt it'll go cheap. I'm guessing it'll be way on the high side of $10K. Gene

There is an auction nearby this week. 57 Desoto, 2 door hardtop, hemi, one owner, low miles, runs and looks good. What's a guy to do??? Gene

Well, I heard back from the University, who puts on the concerts there. They said they have no control or say about the volume, it's purely up to the artist and his group. I tried to send something to Vince Gill, haven't found a way yet. The University is sending me 2 tickets to an upcoming concert of Lyle Lovett to make up for it. I wonder if it'll also be too loud for human consumption? The guy in charge says they've complained in the past at other events with no change. He says he figures until most of the audience gets up and walks out nothing will change. I doubt that will happen, heck, most of them can't hear! We went to a Michael Martin Murphy concert at Christmas time. He has a Christmas show each year he puts on in several places. I've been a few years ago. Absolutely wonderful. Volume is exactly what it should be. It was in Steelville, Mo in an auditorium about the same as Jesse Hall at the University of Missouri where Vince played. It wasn't like the volume had to be that loud for the ones in the back to hear. By the way, we were in the middle at the Vince Gill deal, blasted out. Row 3 at Michael Martin Murphy, just right. Oh, well, I'll just listen to my Serius Bluegrass channel. Sorry to rant, sometimes I just get tired of things.

I've tried ear plugs before. What's the point? If I want to hear a muffled rumble I can just put a record on a bad stereo. Guess I just need to pass on concerts after this. Sad part is, I thought Vince would play some nice music where that wouldn't be a problem. Oh, well.

Got a question. Many of you are similar ages as me, 67. Seems like most music events I've gone to lately are so loud it hurts. About an hour ago my wife and I went to a Vince Gill concert. I love his music, I first saw him live in 1983 at his first Austin City Limits recording. I was in the audience. I have many of his CDs. I made 2 songs and had to bail. Took my ears half an hour to stop ringing. My wife is still there. Guess I'll have to pick her up in a little bit. She probably won't be able to hear anything I say until tomorrow. There was no reason for it to be building rattling loud. If the noise was that loud in my business I'd get fined big bucks. I'm not sure why the other 500 or so people stayed. Maybe they all blew out their hearing years ago - at concerts. I just ordered a decibel meter. Next time I'll know just how loud it is. What am I missing? Gene

I've done what TodFitch suggests, but in another state. Back in the day that was the way many vehicles were registered. In Missouri there is still on the books a way to change motor numbers on the title (which equals serial number) when you change out the motor. It's signed my the mechanic replacing the motor, cost $2. I doubt it's been used in years. I changed one from the motor number to the body serial number with a simple inspection from the Highway patrol, then got a new title. I expect California has a similar provision that few people know about. Just asking a clerk in the DMV probably isn't going to turn it up. You'll probably have to dig a little deeper. I certainly wouldn't go creating and changing serial number plates on the car.

Charles, it's been mentioned here before, but if you have collector or antique insurance on your truck chances are good your coverage is void if you ever pull a trailer. And not just when you're pulling the trailer, if they find out your policy is void. There are a couple that cover it, but with most it's a problem. Gene

Thanks Don. I'm not sure why something that seems so simple now was so complicated. Mine took a 1/4" pipe plug, not 1/8". Gene

So do you run this plug down the hole where the oil input pipe goes, maybe 3" into the hole? If so, will it be tight enough that the plug won't move over time, blocking all oil flow? Does it bottom out where it is supposed to stop do you have to measure or test to make sure it's in the right spot? Since pipe plugs usually go into a tapered threaded hole this seems a bit strange. I'll get a plug today and experiment with it. Thanks, Gene