austinsailor

Isn't it great? The sad part is, 30 - 40 years ago many were junked because we couldn't find parts. I know I junked my share in my younger years. Of course, back in the 60's and 70's you could hardly give away old Mopars. For example, I bought a 49 Dodge coupe for about $30. Drove it for awhile, rather than fix it, I just bought another and that one went off to be parts. Even in the shape it was in it would be a $3000 car today. Sad. Too bad the Internet didn't come along sooner.

Called them, they were there, they had it and it's on the way Monday morning! Thanks very much. By the way, it's the bigger gear, left hand thread. Completely different in every way from others I have. Never thought I'd find it! You guys are great. Gene Gruender

This is probably a fruitless search, but I could really use a new worm and sector gear for my Airflow. It's not real worn, just worn enough that it's not going to be as good as it should be. The sector is more of a problem than the worm, but I really don't know where to find either one. Mitchell isn't getting back to me, probably because he has none. The place in Arlington Texas just laughed at me. Where do these restoration houses find things like this? Are there any other places that have stashes of old MOPAR parts? I guess part numbers would help, but I haven't located a parts manual yet.

I've done my 40 Dodge sedan by putting a floor jack inner the inner end, removing the 4 nuts, then just letting it down. The spring tension is gone before it gets too far down. Reinstall just the reverse.

I should have bought a warehouse full and saved as my retirement fund!

I notice the steering has no shaft sticking out. Most have the work gear and shaft through the steering wheel as one piece. Was this built differently, or does it just not have the work gear installed?

More true than you realize, Tim. I'm not sure yet what it'll take to change the fan belt.

It's only the second one I ever saw in person. There was a Chrysler on Ebay about 2 years ago. We drove to Texas to see it, drove it, and bid on it.But it went for way more than it was worth. Mine is twice the car for about half the money. Still needs some work, but nothing like the one I passed on. It certainly draws attention!

The airflow guys came up with 631753. That was from a '36 parts book. Maybe the other digit was added later. Could be I could have found the part with that #, but Mitchell looked it up himself and didn't find it.

You are correct Don. It was a chore to get it off, but when I did, there was nobody home. If you look back at the first pictures, it is off. Had to take it and the generator off to get to the steering box.

More pictures

Ouch! About 15 minutes ago I picked up a Model T clutch, (edit - Model A clutch, T's don't have clutches - working on too many cars!) etc. New clutch, new throw out bearing, new pilot shaft bearing, resurfaced and rebuilt the pressure plate, resurfaced the flywheel, $136. Guess we're spoiled on this side!

Well, the black one is even stranger. For many reasons!

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Ok, here are pictures: Steering box down there somewhere.

Yes, but it's not the one I need. I did find it, though. The Rare Parts, mentioned above, had it on the shelf. They make them. $145, but it's now, it's right, and I should get it back together by the weekend!

Because I need this:

Heard back - guess eBay works better than phone or email. Strange. They have the service pack, not the end. I'm waiting now to hear if the service pack includes the end. I doubt it, I expect it is just a rebuild kit for the other end.

I've bought from them before - and pass on some things. If you need it, there is a good chance he has it. But as you say, it sometimes can break the bank. I have had no contact since Frank died, I have no idea how the company is run now. You might wonder why I'd try to buy from someone who generally had such high prices. The drag link I'm looking for is not available, we're trying to find a modern part that is close enough to work but haven't yet. Some S2 owners have had theirs rebuilt by a machine shop that knows how, but it takes a couple months and $200 to get it done. How much would you pay to get one off the shelf?

Good idea. Hadn't thought of that. I see they still list a lot of stuff, so they must be around. I'll see if they answer that, thery didn't answer the online parts request on their website.

I've been trying to contact Mitchell Motors without success. Sent a parts request several days ago, tried to call all day and got a busy every time. I know Frank Mitchell died recently, but I understand it had been sold. Anyone know what is going on? I'm hoping there is a drag link end for my Airflow somewhere in their warehouses.

I just posted something to the Airflow group, since several people here have asked for updates, I'll just post the same thing: I tore into our "new" S2 today. Found several interesting things. To get the steering adjusted, I had to remove the thermostat housing and generator. Discovered it was just a housing, no thermostat. Guess I need to study up on what to do about that. The housing was seized on the long rear stud, that was fun, but I eventually got it off. I was surprised there was no thermostat, though, because it ran right up to about 180 and stayed all the time I drove it. Even with good access to the steering box and a big blade I couldn't turn the adjusting screw. So, off came the cover - from the looks of what was in it, likely the first time it was ever off. Got lots of goopy crud out, but from what I could see, everything looked ok. Got the screw freed up - it may have never been adjusted - and it appears that the play is gone. Since I took off the spindles to do the kingpins, it's a little hard to tell, but I see no play. The gears felt good, as much as I could run my fingers over them without pulling the box. Seal still holds oil, too. Found that some of the resistance in the front wheels turning was way to tight wheel bearings. They seem to be ok, though. I'm glad I did this now, not way down the road. Strangely, the wheel cylinders had crud in them, but no corrosion or pitting. However the seals were leaking just a bit, so they'll get rebuilt. I really expected they'd be in terrible shape and be off to be sleeved, but not so. Shoes aren't wet, not worn out, so this might not be too bad. However, I must not have been living completely right, because some of the play in one kingpin is in the axle, not the bushings. The left one was just loose enough that I thought it needed attention, but it wasn't all in the bushing. The kingpin has enough play in the axle that you can feel it. I have a new set, but it, too, is just a bit loose. I'm sure over time it'll batter out and get worse, so it'll have to get some attention. I'll talk to my machine shop guy tomorrow, but most likely we'll get some drill rod just a tad bigger, ream the axle for a tight fit, ream the bushing normally, and be a few thousanths over size. The non-adjustable end of the drag link is also just worn enough to need attention. It'll go to NAPA tomorrow. A guy there is pretty good about searching until he finds something that will work. It has to have a similar taper, and the same thread. Surely something is in the system that will work. I put my set of new Diamondback WWW radials on a couple days ago, and even with the loose front end, it made a big difference. I think if all this play is removed, it'll drive like a dream. Gene

I'm going through the 36 Desoto Airflow I just bought. Brakes and steering right now. I thought the bigger diameter end of the stepped wheel cylinder went to the back since the front sort of helps itself. Mine are installed with the big end towards the front if the car. Is it correct, or were they put on the wrong sides? Gene

If it's straight gears most any lube should be good. If it's got synchronizers, GL1 is what you need. NAPA can get it if you don't find it on the shelf. My 48 B1B might do 60 4:11, slight oversize tires, would be screaming. I can't imagine it staying together long at 65. I one had a 40 plymouth. Not high mileage, good motor. I get into a road race with someone, pushed it about 70 or a bit more for about 15 miles. Had to stop when a rod bounced off the frame.

There are two plates, one for the 3 speed, one for the 4 speed. The e brake is in a different place. Mine has a 4 speed, I found one for a 3 speed. So, you certainly can find one if you look long enough. Since my brake hole was in the wrong place I used a cutoff wheel, and just relocated it, shifting a couple of cut out pieces of metal around, reweldidng, and a little grinding. About an hours work and you can't tell it was changed. So, find the right one, it's a bolt in, find the wrong one, a bit of work and you've got it. Another choice might be to find one that is pretty rusty and unusable. It'll be rusted around the edges, but the metal around the hole for the brake should still be good. Mark them both the sake, use a cutoff wheel, cut the same hole in both, then weld the good part with t he hole back in your cover.