austinsailor

You guys know that 8 volt chargers are non existent these days, don't know how you'd charge that high powered 8 volt.

No modifications, probably 230ci. Minor mods, 265 ci Major mods, 413 ci.

Thanks, David. The seller suggested the ferry route, I did notice I could go the other way. I'll be in a hurry to get there, so I'll take the ferry. But I'll have Thursday and Friday morning to wander, so no telling where I'll end up. Gene

Damn, Austin was like that. But that was only going 4 or 5 miles at times. I assume you mean because of distance, not gridlock. :<)

But it can sound so much cooler! Racer Brown or Earl Edgerton,either one, would know just how to grind it if you tell them what you have and your goal for it. This is like stopping people on the street to ask about cancer cures. Go to the experts.

highway 4 Kingston wa 98345 But I'll be there in the morning. I didn't realize it was that big an area to matter. I'll post the result in a day or two. Gene

Guys, I'm really surprised nobody wanted to take a '36 Desoto Airflow for a drive. I'm flying up Wednesday to check it out.

Flying out Wednesday. Hope it's better than the last one I looked at!

I talked to Chris, got a bid that seemed reasonable. Now all I have to do is buy the car.

We're considering buying a car near Seattle. I'm guessing I could ship it for less than the cost of a 4000 mile round trip - not counting the wear and tear on my and the truck. I know shipping has been discussed from time to time. What can I realistically expect this to cost? How do I avoid the shipper induced nightmares? Thoughts? Yes, I just made a 2400 mile round trip, but another 4000 mile trip right after is a bit much.

The sodium valves are quite a bit bigger in diameter. I haven't compared the bores in a sodium valve engine with a non sodium engine, but I can if it's important. I'm guessing the blocks are the same but you'd have to bore the guides to fit. I don't really see a downside to using them. I've bought several sets for around $7 per valve. There is a guy with numerous sets for sale right now on EBay, $49 + $10 shipping. Search for "Dodge sodium valve"

I'm considering buying a Desoto Airflow that is in the Seattle area. I'm 2000 miles away. Would anyone want to go by and take a look and let me know what they think? It would be the step before I get on the airplane, maybe save me a trip, but I think it's a fine car. If you're willing, maybe even today. If you have an interest and are willing, please let me know and I'll get the info to you. Thanks a lot. Gene Gruender 512-680-3599 austin.sailor@yahoo.com

Yes, but that's the block - they said the heads had been "ported and relieved",

I was just reading an ad about a high end Ford horror for sale, and among other things it said the Offenhauser heads had been ported and relieved. Bad terminology, or do they know something I don't? I ported my flathead's block, not the head.

My 40 dodge has a plymouth drum on the left rear. Looks a little different, and there is the stud vs bolt deal, but with the wheel on nobody can tell. Yes, both are left hand. Of course, there is no reason you can't use a drum from the right side and confuse everyone.

Many here probably know, but Edgerton has built a hemi head conversion for the 25" flathead. Can you get more radical?

He just ground a cam for me. I figured he knew more about flathead 6 cams than anyone. He's real slow to answer emails, so give him a few days.

Not a bud, but a customer.

edgerton@pacbell.net

Shoes are certainly not the issue. Even if the shoes were stuck, they would have enough movement that it would be obvious. The drum would come loose from the axle, but only wiggle a bit and not slide completely off. I can't imagine one not coming loose with some heat on it. If you can go by and get a very clear description of what they are doing, maybe even a video of them trying it, someone here will be able to figure out what is amiss.

I was reading up on the bonded title process in Missouri to get the title on the Gardner roadster I brought back from Montana. I got a coupe and roadster, the coupe had a title. Got that figured out: http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/C300-399/3010000192.HTM I looked at the process to change the motor number when it's used as the VIN and you change the motor. I've mentioned it a number of times in response to others questions, but hadn't read it for some time. It might be of interest to someone here. I expect there are similar methods in other states. Here is what is in Mo: http://www.moga.mo.gov/statutes/C300-399/3010000370.HTM and, here are the Gardners:

I'm absolutely impressed with your floorboards. I would never have expected them to be free of holes, much less rust. I'm also shocked how well your paint is cleaning up. Interesting - please keep posting as you progress. Gene

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Correct me if I'm wrong (I'm 1000 miles from my cars), but isn't the big lug on the generator hot all the time? If you have nothing there it puts you pretty much on the problem. There isn't much you can do with the electrical system without a meter. As mentioned, harbor freight starts at $0.00 with a coupon, (no purchase necessary - i just got another last week) under $10 always, usually $7 on sale, and even Wally World has one for around $12. A fancy one can do just a little more, but a cheap one will do about anything most of us ever needs. Do we need to measure micro volts? I doubt it. I have half a dozen laying around. I still have trouble finding one when I need it! And when I break one I don't have meltdown. You gotta get some sort of meter.

I bought a t bucket last year that had been sitting 13 years, it was stuck. Put lots of PB Blaster in the cylinders, let it sit. After a couple days I tried to turn it with a breaker bar and socket on the crank. Wouldn't "turn", but would wiggle just a tiny bit. Just the rod bearing play. After a day or two more, it would move just a bit more and I knew pustons were beginning to move. After a couple more days and try's, I could get a whole revolution. Pretty soon it would turn close to normal. By the way, I never put anyway near enough twist on it to break anything. It started and is a great, solid runner now. My lesson, which may or may not be of any value to others, is that getting one unstuck is not like getting a bolt to turn. Break it loose and you're done. It's a slow process. Work it loose. Be patient. If you can move it at all your chances are pretty good. It's unlikely it's rusted up, or at least not badly. Another trick is heat. Some take small motors and put them on a hot plate to break loose varnish, etc. I'm not sure exactly how you'd do this with a big motor like ours, but the concept seems reasonable. Maybe a salamander (kerosene) heater directed on it? It didn't get stuck in a few minutes, there's a good chance it won't come unstuck that quick.