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Everything posted by austinsailor
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In another post the full flow setup was mentioned. There was a drawing by Don showing where to put a plug. I thought, Great, I need to get mine figured out and Don has shown me the way. Went and looked at my block and I don't see where that plug goes. Here are pictures of it, a 251 truck motor with the place for the filter. What am I not seeing?
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If it stuck up you could, but this one is down with no edge exposed. Just a more or less flat circle down in a hole. Gene
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Thanks, Tim. It's obviously held tight there, but I'll be darned if I could find anything. It's late, there is this cold wet crap falling from the sky, so I think I'll wait until morning to walk to the shop to take another look. I know there has to be something there, but i sure couldn't find it. I did get the dash all the way out. that was fun. I was surprised to find the radio is in two parts, the box behind the dial, then another chassis behind the speaker with all (well, a bunch) of the tubes. Strange how they built them back then. Gene
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I'm still disassembling my 53. To get the wiring out I need to get the left front fender off. It has to come off soon anyway for sandblasting. I've got everything loose except the back edge. I got the little brace to the inner fender off, 3 studs inside the kick panel off (which I don't think hold the fender on anyway) but it's still held on solidly. I see no bolts, studs or hex heads anywhere. What am I missing? Thanks, Gene
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Great information! Got it all apart. Something I figured out that might help someone else. I could push the center in, but my fingers would slip when I tried to turn it. I ended up putting some of that velcro with the sticky back on it, then the other part of the velcro on my hand. Then I had plenty of traction. I suppose double sided tape would do the same thing, I had Velcro handy. If you do this and glue is left on the part alcohol will take it off with no damage. Gene
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Thanks. I'll try it tomorrow. Since it only had 12,000 miles on it, I don't think it had many chances to get messed with! Gen e
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So I push in just the center, (3" or 4" dia) not the whole chrome ring (12" or so), correct? And the wires, just pull hard on the wire from the end without the bigger lip, holding the connector. No sticking something in it to release the connector or anything like that? Thank, Gene
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I'm disassembling my '53 to get the wiring out to send it off as a sample to have a new one made. I ran into 2 problems. Problem 1, I can't get the steering wheel off, because I can't get the center of the horn ring out. I would have thought I would just pry out the center, but it doesn't seem to work. If I get any more aggressive with it I think I will destroy it. I just don't see any other way for it to come apart, though. Ideas? Problem 2, I have these connectors under the dash. The wires need to come out to remove the wires, the connectors won't go through the holes. I think they should just be a snap in deal, to be pulled back out. Any thoughts, as they don't seem to be giving. The 3 wire connector is not the same on both ends. Anyone take the wires out of one of these? I suppose I can cut the wires and splice if necessary. Thanks, Gene
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Oh, No! Here it comes again, the "vapor lock isn't real" discussion! :<) Gene
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Straight up I-39, hwy 26, then back. We missed the tornado in East Illinois, and were expecting snow by Horicon. We were moving on! Gene
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Took a 1500 mile swing around the Midwest Thursday and Friday. Central Missouri to St. Louis, dropped off a soda machine for repair, then the fun started. On to Washington Indiana to pick up my "new' Truck motor. Come to think of it, I haven't even checked the number yet to see exactly what it was. Price was good enough it didin't matter! It came out of a 40 dodge pickup. All sorts of chrome, Fenton style headers, aluminum valve covers and ran good. He replaced it with a Chevy 6 banger and 700R4. I guess I can forgive him, since I got his old motor at a great price. Then to Ridge farm, Ill to pick up a back hoe attachment. Sloppy mud - even the gravel, it was so wet. Rain, a tornado 3 miles away, in the dark, electric out, but we loaded and got the hell out of Dodge. Then to Horicon, Wi to pick up the 265 engine that was talked about here back about December. This was from Ol Skool Customs, and we got to see several MOPAR projects in the works. On to a friend's boat and motor museum in the middle of Ill, just to look and visit. Unbelievable stuff, but not for this forum. Then to Springfield, Ill to pick up the inner fender a fellow forum member dropped of at thanksgiving at a friend of mine's house there. Then 4 more hours to home. 2 days, 6 stops, nothing broke, everyone was where they said they'd be for me, everything was what was described, great trip. My 89 year old father went along for the ride, first time he didn't sleep half the day. In fact, he didn't sleep at all along the road!
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I have 3 cast Iron Powerflites I'm going to get rid of. If anyone needs one or parts from one, let me know soon. I need to clean house and I'll never use them. No charge, but it would be nice if you paid for postage. Gene
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I don't think the age thing applies to bias, but it's pretty well proven that radials can fly apart after about 6 years. We've had a number of them fail in our family, causing considerable damage. For my trailers that don't get used much I get bias ply tires. The 2 that I haul often input radials on. Radials really are a problem once they pass that 6 year mark.
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We all listened to a St. Louis station during the day. It had all the latest hits. Can't recall the call sign for anything. I do recall it's biggest advertiser was Ray Rixman Dodge. Every 10 minutes, it seemed, "$99 down, no payments for 90 days". Guess it moved a lot of cars. Then there was KAAY, little rock. It came in after dark. All sorts of hits, seems like Skeeter Davis was on every 5th song. Except Sunday night, then it was HLH Hunt and religious messages. Then we might switch to WHB in Kansas City. I guess we had a lot of choices back then.
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Guess the rumor of Biondi was more interesting than the truth! I know the joke he supposedly told, it's the only reason we ever heard. I went up near Chicago a couple years ago to pick up a 50's boat I bought (got to have old boats to pull behind old cars!) and thought about WLS, which I had't listened to since his leaving. Must have been later, like 62, now that I think about it. Tuned it in, and who was on? Dick Biondi. Guess his firing didn't last. Gene
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Original rebuild source for old radios question
austinsailor replied to pflaming's topic in Off Topic (OT)
I just had my 1940 Motorola radio done buy this fellow: http://www.southtexasantiqueelectronics.com/ I'm pleased with the work. He can restore it to original, (what I did), add an input for external devices or Blue tooth, and all the way to putting modern guts in the original case. I spent a half hour at his place and got a detailed tutorial of all the choices and how it's done. Mine was restored both electronically and mechanically, electronic vibrator added, and the case sandblasted and painted with original wrinkle finish. A couple mechanical parts were fabricated for the tuner. Cost was right at $200. Gene -
Certainly some states don't need titles. Most do. Coming from Texas, most places you'd go would require it. If it's going to stay in Texas it most certainly would have to end up with a title. In Texas, you get a notarized bill of sale from the seller, buy a bond (probably $350 for this car) and get it inspected by a police car theft unit, you're done, you have a title. It's good anywhere. If it was a $500 car, I'd get selling it without a title, but if someone reasonably expects to get this sort of money wouldn't you take care of it? If the guy selling it gets the bond, he's responsible if someone else ever claims ownership. I'd think he'd know the history and risk. He should. If I was buying it from a stranger and didn't know the history, I'd never put out serious money and risk losing it. All you'd have to do is have the original owner (the one who had those antique tags, for instance) or his son or grandson see the car and put in a claim. Bond company pays the $10,000 or so ( what the bond would likely be for) then you, the bond purchaser, have to pay back the bond company the bond plus expenses. I guess the moral of my rantings is, be sure you know the history of a car you get that doesn't have proper paperwork.
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Of course, it's just for show! Along with fender skirts and continental kits. Kool on old cars, but no real functional value. I still like it. Gene
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If you had a pretty straight car like this: http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/4321828833.html and no title, if you expected to sell it and get a decent price, why wouldn't you just get the darn title and THEN sell it? In Texas it's easy, it would cost about $400 for that car, and I am sure it would add more than that to the selling price, and greatly increase you possible customer base. I just don't get it. Gene
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Interesting. I assumed those were fittings for missing oil lines. I wonder if it has increased capacity for the transmission? Gene