TodFitch

Plenty of pollen in most parts of California including LA. But allergies are specific to the specific plant pollen. Since the plants that grow in LA are quite different than those that grow in Boston your allergic reaction can be quite different.

Yesterday was unseasonably hot for us. Today too. But the temperature peaked earlier at 93°F at our house and we started getting a breeze off the bay. Down to 83°F at present which is a bit higher than the predicted high for tomorrow. Day after that we should be back to our normal mid-70s high temperatures.

Assuming a p15, parts group 5-58-1 shows 1119410 on the frame and 1118161 on the rear axle.

Cause you noticed it so I figured it was yours to post. I just posted it now: http://p15-d24.com/topic/36170-32-convertible-coupe-on-the-bay/?p=370990

Excellent!

Don't know if Chrysler was first or just among the first. The early ones were all Purolator ("Pure Oil Later") disposable canisters. And apparently the really unique thing on the early filters was a glass sight window where you could view the clean oil being returned to your crankcase. I haven't actually seen one of those but would like to.

For many years, but I am not sure all, you could put the key in the start position (or on position if there was no start position) and then there was a release, usually a pin hole you stuck something into, that allows the key and tumbler to turn farther and then come out.

Cars were built in multiple factories and each factory had a sequence of serial numbers assigned to it for each of the models they built. So there can be more than one set of serial numbers for a model and which set of numbers will tell you what factory it was built at.

You have a far steadier hand than I! The results are way beyond what I could expect for myself.

How the heck does the steering mechanism on that thing work? Since you tried it, I figure you know.

I've never worried about marking mine when I took it off and I haven't noticed any issues due to it being installed in what is most probably a different orientation. I have heard of some where one of the housings was worn and swapping the driveshaft front to rear resolved a noise or vibration issue. But I think that if both joints are in good condition it should not matter.

Fixed link: http://www.dodgepowerwagon.com/best/detgoil.html

Looks to me like those vertical car bodies are actually hanging off of a rail above. Probably uses gravity to keep the bodies vertical. They must have had the floor boards out for that body drop to have worked. Explains why the front floor boards are bolted in on my car but the rear is welded steel.

I guess shorter wheel base for the same payload area would be an advantage but I thought the reason was axle weight limits. By moving some of the fixed weight (cab) over the front axle it freed up some load carrying weight capacity on the rear axle. I recall hearing at one time that drivers preferred the conventional setup as they typically have a more comfortable ride than a COE. But I've never driven a large truck much less a COE, so all this is armchair speculation on my part.

Nice place to take an old Chrysler product too

My way was to tear three of the five boots I had trying to get them on. With two finally successful, stashed the driveshaft for a month before installing it and then found the two good boots had cracked and failed just sitting there. Then I got some of the better leather boots, the ones with a snap inner grease retaining collar, and put them on. Been several years on those and they are still good.

Plymouth history which may not be exactly the same as for other makes and models: In 1931 Plymouth introduced a freewheeling transmission to make shifting easier. As part of that introduction they found they needed to add some sort of automatic spark advance control, so they added a vacuum advance. Period literature indicates that they had issues with the engine stalling without the automatic advance. My guess is that the typical driver really did do a "set and forget" on the spark advance lever and they often did not set it properly. If the engine was directly coupled to the drivetrain then the momentum of the car made up for a number of sins and kept the engine turning over. With freewheeling those driver skill issues became more evident. For 1932 through 1934 they decided that they could just get by with a centrifugal advance. In 1935 they when to using both a centrifugal and vacuum advance. I believe the called it "perfected ignition" in the sales patter of the day. As I understand it, optimal spark advance in terms of crankshaft rotation depends on RPM. I think that basically the flame front takes a certain amount of time to propagate through the cylinder and the higher the RPM the earlier in the rotation you need to ignite the mixture to allow for the same propagation time. And also, as I understand it, the flame front propagation depends on the density of the charge of air/fuel mixture. And the density of the charge can be estimated by the manifold vacuum (lower vacuum means more fuel/air being pulled into the cylinder). So you want to have both your advance mechanisms working properly to get ignition at the correct timing. I haven't read the service manuals of new cars, but as recently as the '91 Jeep that I once had the principle is the same but implemented differently. Instead of having a vacuum advance and a mechanical advance in the distributor they sensed the RPM off the flywheel and the "manifold absolute pressure" with another sensor and then did a table lookup in the engine control unit. (By the way, many of the ECUs of that era were based on Motorola microprocessors which had a nifty interpolated table lookup feature built into them just to handle this type of thing.)

Might be. There is little in front of the radiator to block air flow and you can certainly feel the warm air coming out of the louvers on the sides of the hood. Kind of interesting to have your hand out the window and raise and lower it. Once your hand is down low where the air exiting the hood louvers is mixed with ambient air it is definitely warmer.

Torque specifications: http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

At ambient temperatures of up to 80°F or so, my temperature gauge usually reads about 140° to 150°F at 60 MPH on level roads. It will climb a bit on long up hills. At ambient temperatures of 100°F or so (thankfully rare in my location), the gauge will be at about 180°. I can't say for sure that my gauge is accurate over its full range but I did check the bulb in boiling water (a bit below 212°F as I did it at a house located at about 1300 ft. elevation) and the needle showed 212 on the gauge. So it is close at the high end. One of these days I'll replace the 160 thermostat with a 180. But that will be after I am sure I've conquered the heat related fuel delivery issue that I have when it is around 100°F outside.

At least on my older pump, the hub and shaft are drilled and pinned after the hub is pressed on. If yours was done that way you'll need to remove the pin before pressing off the hub. (Actually the preceding is not quite true as the hub and pulley are one piece on my pump so it is actually the pull that is pressed on the shaft, not just the hub like later pumps.)

My experience is that the black residue can be easily removed with a stiff brush. I don't know why that happens as I've had some pieces where it happened and some where it did not. And some where there was some black residue in some places but not in others. It sounds like you have less sacrificial metal in your setup that I: Mine is a five gallon bucket (I've only done small parts) and I have 8 strips of scrap sheet metal each about 2" wide around the outside. With the smaller size of the bucket (less distance for the current to travel) and more electrodes I would expect my setup to work faster than yours.

Don't know what your highest setting on your charger is. . . My 1970s vintage Sears charger has one switch, 6v or 12v. I generally use the 6v setting. Current flow is, I think, an indication of how much chemical activity you have. Seems like the more sacrificial anodes you have and the better spread around the rusty part(s) the faster it goes. I suspect that the current flow likes to do "line of sight" so those areas get de-rusted first. My setup is with about 8 strips of sheet metal hooked around the rim of a bucket which are all wired together. I hang the part(s) to be de-rusted in the center from a wood strip and I use a bit more washing soda than called for (I just dump some in without measuring). The whole process seems to go pretty fast in that setup. Lightly rusted stuff is clean in an hour, heavily rusted stuff is clean the next morning. The nice thing is that you can forget about the stuff and not have to worry about good metal being eaten away. Years ago I lost some parts that way in a commercial de-rusting in solution which was basically an acid. Also the iron rich solution that is left over is pretty benign for disposing.

Oil filter was standard in 1933 but then they decided to get cheap and started only having it standard on the upscale versions. By the late 40s it seems that many cars were delivered without any filter and if you wanted one you either got one of at least three Mopar versions or installed an aftermarket filter.

Not to mention that the everyday off the shelf "normal" oil today has the same level of ZDDP in it as in the 1950s and early 60s. There is far more ZDDP in today's oil than was in the oil when your engine was designed.