Dodge 48

I'm working on my 48 Dodge COE. I'm pretty much done with the mechanical changes which includes a 1977 Dodge M500 motorhome chassis and installation of a 1996 Cummins 5.9 diesel engine. I am now starting on the body , it's in very nice condition overall. The biggest problem on the body is the hood which is going to have some metal fabrication on the lower edges; the grill bars (stainless) are coming out beautifully ---but, does anyone know a source for the metal clips which attach the stainless bars to the grill? It appears 14 are needed. I have only one which is badly corroded, they are attached to the lower edge by spot-welds which I have drilled out, thereby removing the rusted ends from the bars. There is a small extension on the lower edge and it has a small hole drilled in the lip - I have no idea what this extension/hole is for. Any help appreciated. Jim 360-372-2874

I sent Dan a reply to his kind PM a couple of minutes ago; I'll share it here. "Don, didn't mean to worry you or others. I am fine, we have a BIG gathering here for the 4th of July, spent a lot of time in preparation and a little time recuperating. Since the recuperation I have been trying to complete my 68 Cougar XR-7 and creating a paralysis from analysis situation on the 48 COE; I'm seriously considering putting a mid-90's Cummins in it to replace the 440/727, I've gone so far as looking at a couple of engines - still mulling (time and money). Take care, I'll be bake before long. Jim". Anybody got any thoughts on the Cummins idea? Oh, by the way, my wife doesn't keep close watch on me as long as I don't get into grocery money of get in the way of her studio; I'm a lucky Guy!

I'm not knowledgeable on the topic, but I am interested to learn more about the 5.9 Cummins (which I think is the 6BT). Some of the members commenting in this topic may have looked at my project (B-1-JMA Build) and know it is (or will be) on a 77 Dodge M500 motorhome chassis that currently has a 440/727 setup in it. I'm thinking a diesel would be a lot more fuel efficient than the 8-10 MPG that I might get with the 440. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. OBTW, I sure enjoy this forum, lots of good people sharing interesting stuff. Jim

Hank, thanks for your suggestion; I'll try it next time. You guys have really been helpful in trying to get me up to speed. Thanks again. Jim

I recently moved the cab forward and up in order to allow connection of the fender tabs to the cab. I really went well and without too much work; I used the winch attached to the yellow sling, which is visible in some of the earlier photos, to lift the cab a pre-determined height (1.5 inches) and forward a little over 3/4 of an inch; this proved insufficient an necessitated raising it another 1/4 inch. I then C-clamped pre-made "feet" to the vertical cab supports (front and rear)in order to lower the cab to the desired position; the "feet" are simply 6 inch pieces of sturdy angle iron; I did have to cut a 1 inch hole in the rear "feet" in order to allow a frame rivet to utilize the hole, allowing the rear "feet" to sit flat on the chassis. Attached are a couple of photos showing the process and one showing the engine clearance below the cab and cab supports. I was thank-full that the cab required raising and not lowering, the engine clearance would have been a problem, and raising the radiator core support would have made the clearance above a future bumper look very odd. Speaking of radiators, I'm happy (very happy) that there appears to be sufficient clearance to install the larger 440 radiator (which is slightly wider than the core support opening) behind the core support; it clears the cross-member but will require pusher electric fans for cooling. As a side note, the 440 radiator framework incorporate mounting plates which attach to the chassis; I will have to drill two holes but the weight will be borne there and not solely on the core support. Pictures of that at a later time. Essentially mock-up is done; my next move is to get the 77 chassis ready for the transfer of parts using the mock-up specifications. Before I do that there will be front suspension maintenance and cleanup and the same for the differential; of course, brakes on both ends. These components will be removed and the chassis sandblasted and painted.

Thanks for the picture editing information, I'll try it next time. Regarding the HAMB, as I mentioned in an earlier post, they (some moderators) have a problem introducing any foreign adaptations to the site; likewise, some of the moderators have a hard time with truck mixes and matches; I personally don't understand it, half the hobby cars out there are a mix of this and that (if I never see another SBC in a Ford I'll be a happy camper, great engines-----but). I'm enjoying this group a lot; again, thanks for your help and support. Hey, can any of you tell me if that forward edge on the "hood" cover over the radiator goes under the grill top edge or on top of it? I'm guessing under. Thanks again, Jim.

Again, I haven't got the description thing or order of photos thing figured out; please bear with me. The bottom photo shows the relocation of the cross-member; it now straddles the rivets in the spring perch. I've only moved the unit back 4.25 inches due to 1) wanting to utilize the hole already in the frame for the front of the spring perch, and 2) the interference of the spring shackle bolt; I would have had to go rearward about 7 inches, which I didn't want to do. I am accepting the vertical off-center of the 0.75 inches of the wheel to cab wheel opening. The cab still needs to be raised (another step). The top two photos show the results of this effort in frame extension forward of the grill, and a general view of the truck straight on, the third photo shows the remaining gap of about 0.75 inch, it looks like more because the grill/fenders are sagging forward with no support. Pray I can over-come my flat learning curve on these posts. Jim

Lets see how I do this time.

Guys I apologize for my poor attempts when posting pictures. I realize that each photo should have a description; I'll try to get better, but for nos and starting with the top photo you see: 1 .Front spring perch, it is held in place by one bolt in the front and two rivets at the rear. 2. Photo shows the original position of the front cross-member which supports the radiator core support, which in turn supports the front of the fenders, grill and hood. 3. This pic is showing the gap between the cab and the rear of the fender with the cross-member in it's original position. The solutions are move the cab forward or move the crass-member back. I've opted to move the cross-member for a couple of reasons 1) I want to maintain the position of the wheel in the vertical center of the cab wheel opening, and 2) moving the cab forward creates problems with engine room. The gap is 5 inches horizontally and the cab is about 1.5 inches to low (much better than to high given engine clearance), I will try to move the cross-member back about that distance. 4. The next two photos show how far the cab extends forward of the frame-ends which could affect placement of a future bumper and somewhat expose the grill to damage. Next post I'll show you the results of my effort to-date. Thanks for your interest. Jim

Greg, it will be awhile until I get there, but I have some ideas, nothing original, but here is a nutshell. One of the reasons I bought the RV was for the 32 foot chassis' I'll post some pics once it's "cleaned" up; The wheelbase is 208 inches, it has quite a bit of frame work of a lighter gage extending rear of the differential. I'm thinking of cutting it off for a different use but similar to what you suggest. I have a hydraulic dump frame which is on a 51 Ford F-6 chassis that I'm going to put on the Dodge, the chassis are the same width. I'll put the dump trunions at the end of the Dodge cut-off framework and put a slant apron using the framework I cut off of the Dodge chassis mentioned above. I'm not looking for much lift or to much deck slant, just enough to get a car up and over. I really like this hydraulic dump hoist; I've never seen it work, it's pump is powered by a PTO off of the Ford tranny, I'll have to have a block made to adapt an electric pump to the system, for as you know the 727 tranny on the Dodge isn't going to work in that capacity. The reason I'm going to try to use this hoist is because it was manufactured by the "St Paul Dump Hoist Company" which was founded by a guy named Woods who held the first patent on a dump hoist; I'm just a nostalgic guy. As I'm sure you have ascertained, the money in this build is going to be in the bed (I know, easier to buy a trailer). I'll get some pic's up. Thanks for your interest, Jim. Greg, I'm editing this because I didn't address "The HAMB", great site; unfortunately there seems to be a tug-of-war going on regarding a COE thread. You're right, there are some great builds that have been done and great pictures, I was posting my build there and it was "pulled", as were some others, no explanation; so I started shopping for a site that had no problems with switching out components; I found this one, I have a 48 Dodge COE and a 77 Dodge chassis, here I am. My intent in joining any forum/organization is the sharing of ideas, learning about things I don't know (a lot), enjoying what others do, and sharing my efforts if anyone is interested. I still visit "The HAMB", but I'm not posting there; maybe sometime when I have a more "traditional" project. I will soon be working on putting an 88 Ford 5.0HO EFI and a front and rear JAG suspension in my 49 F-1, they don't like that either. Jim

Dave, I don't doubt that a bit - it's gotta' be better than a VW bus. New subject; I started the mock-up today (forgot my camera last night at a buddies place where we work another project not worthy of this forum), I'll try to post pics tomorrow; bottom line, not too bad; need to raise the cab 2 inches and move the radiator core support toward the cab 5 inches. The core support has to be moved rather than the cab in order to retain the proper relationship to the wheel opening.

I'm surprised to see the interest in the "concept" topic. I surely don't with certainty know the answer; all I know is I'm looking forward to this project. Today I'm working on a non-MOPAR car I've had for years, trying to complete a bare-shell restoration. Also, spending some time trying to figure the best approach to figuring cab placement on the Dodge COE project. I guess the first step is the first try. Glad you're following along. Jim

ggdad, thanks for the warning. Actually, in doing some research on the COE concept I learned that they were conceived as an improvement for delivery units in heavily congested urban areas; that the shorter length and better visibility gave them a maneuverability and safety advantage. I also read that due to insurance claims by drivers that shared your experience caused rates for operators of the COE's to rise considerably leading to less demand for the style; I put that thesis out at a breakfast I attend with motor-heads once a month and was corrected by a retired trucker, he told us that the demise was more a result of state laws changing regarding allowable length of loads, which is correct I don't know. I always wanted one of the COE's when I was a kid on the farm, my Dad always bought used long hoods to haul hay, the COE's cost a bit more and he wasn't into "more". See, it's a childhood fetish.

I thought some of you might be interested in what I started with to get the 32 foot cassis that will ultimately (after many mods) support the 48 COE. I think this link will give you a slide show. Later I'll provid pics of some of the mods started to bring this project forward. Jim <iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s1300.photobucket.com/user/jimegan1/embed/slideshow/48%20Dodge/77%20Dodge%20RV%20Dismantle"></iframe>