TodFitch

On the car side, they used the same nut on the rear axle for all 1928 through at least 1948: http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#53553 Its a 3/4-16 thread, 5/8" high castle nut with flats spaced 1 1/8". I would not be too surprised if the same one was used on the light trucks too. So pieces of the cotter pin were still there? I suppose you are also missing the washer with the little tab that goes into the key slot to keep it from turning. That would be this one http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group3#50652 but I don't have a modern cross ref for it.

I missed something on this thread as I did not notice a previous reference to Napa. The Deer Park Winery & Auto Museum mentioned by Mattimuss might have triggered this but it appears to be near San Diego. Old, bad joke from California wine country: Q: What is the difference between Napa and Sonoma? A; You go to Sonoma for wine and NAPA for car parts. Now please excuse me while I get on the phone to line up a bunch of old cars to caravan to Pep Boys. . .

If they were that sloppy about the crank it leads me to wonder about other areas that might have been skimped on. Specifically, I wonder about the condition of the cam bearings. . . It is my understanding that worn cam bearings can be a source of low oil pressure too.

Tour from San Jose to Watsonville and back today (about 70 miles round trip) was led by a '23 Chevy touring. Four cylinder engine with the original block but a '28 head on it and even running the original vacuum tank fuel "pump". I was pretty impressed, in a positive sense, with how well it ran especially up over Hecker Pass which has some reasonably steep grades. He mentioned that the vacuum tank fuel system was pretty good and that it only gave issue on very long steep upgrades like when he drove it up Pikes Peak recently. I was also pretty impressed, in a negative sense, when a traffic signal changed in front of him and his two wheel mechanical brakes were insufficient. He locked up rear passenger wheel with no great effect on his speed and he had to make a quick, marginally legal, turn to avoid going into the intersection. Glad I was allowing sufficient room that I could be a spectator instead of potentially involved with the situation and also glad that I had hydraulically equalized four wheel brakes.

See http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group10#10-05-19 The above link is for what is basically a brake line but there is a caution against using it with petroleum products. I'd follow greg g's advice and get a custom made one from a local place that makes up hydraulic lines.

I didn't see Don's list of 218. . . Got a link? As to my list of 248, is that one short?

I believe that a double acting fuel pump has two parts: One to pump fuel and the second a vacuum pump for keeping the wipers moving when manifold vacuum is insufficient.

Last weekend my wife and I drove out to an inn on the coast, did a little hiking and did a little sightseeing. Between the dirt roads and dirt parking areas, the morning fog and the local stray cats donating paw prints, the car needed some cleaning up before this weekend's events. There are 36 spokes on each wheel. Only way I know to clean them is to do each one, one at a time. All the other methods I've tried don't do as nice a job. 36 times 4 is 144 (fortunately the rear tire cover hides the spare tire, wheel and all those spokes in a nice smooth easy to clean package). There are 34 louvers on each side of the hood. 34 times 2 is 68. And there are 36 narrow little gaps in the radiator grill that are a bear to clean between. Total annoying little things to get clean: 248. Sometimes I think I should have looked into a later car with plain old steel wheels, no side louvers and nice (widely) spaced front trim work. OTOH my car is pretty unique.

Sounds like you've proven your regulator is not working.

You must be young. I went to to school in the last millennia.

Is it the same as for the P15 non-overdrive transmission? If so then look at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group21#21-22-02

Sounds to me like the spring on the points might be bad or missing.

You can get the cylinders sleeved with either stainless or brass. A number of places will perform that service, I'd recommend the place that did mine but the fellow retired a couple of years ago.

That would be today for me.

Other than the maps I look at show RIT to be northwest of Henrietta.

I looked for a control for that and did not see how do to it. Sorry about that. . . Not sure the logic the "merge threads" button uses but it certainly got them in the wrong order this time.

By my standards, that is getting pretty close to crossing the line. Better put a smiley or two in there next time. I went to a different college in Rochester but I recall that RIT was pretty well regarded.

What college in Rochester?

Just about the answer I was going to post before I noticed that he has all new lines and cylinders, so he really does have a choice. I went with DOT5. But if I were to do it again I might go DOT3. Pros and cons for both.

Make that back to 1933: The 1933 PC, PD as well as the 1934 PE and PF used 601266 as well.

A couple of points to all the participants in this thread. First and foremost, lets keep things civil. There are a couple of posts here that are close to crossing the line. If you are looking for information, please use the search facility before posting. Repeated questions, even from new members, can be a sore point for members who have been on the board for a while and are tired of answering the same questions over and over. And for members who have been on the board a while, be kind to new members. The old adage about if you have nothing nice to say then don't say anything comes to mind. For everyone, if some posts really annoys you. Please refrain from escalating the situation.

Corks protected from soaking up the fuel by shellac were standard in the old days. But don't use that now: Alcohol is a solvent for shellac and will remove it rendering the float worthless in a very short period of time. If worse comes to worse, get a float off of a modern universal replacement sending unit.

I suspect this will vary greatly for many reasons, the big two being: 1. Driving style. I've always driven as if my car had no brakes or bad brakes. For example, if the light ahead is red I'll use engine braking to slow myself down and if I time it right get to the light just as it turns green without using the brakes. The people I know who drive full speed up to a stop and then slam the brakes on go through pads and shoes a lot faster than I. They get worse gas mileage too for pretty much the same reason. 2. Would be how well the brake shoes diameter is matched to the drum diameter. If the shoes have not been properly arced then you are only working on a small part of the shoe and it will wear faster requiring frequent adjustment. If you have the shoes well centered then this should go away as you adjust for wear and more of the shoe comes in contact with the drum. However you mention that you have pulsing in the brake pedal. My limited experience says that takes a drum that is very much out of round to feel the pedal pulsing and you will never be able to properly adjust your shoes for that. For what it is worth, I last played around with my brakes a little more than 1,000 miles ago. The brake pedal is still at about the same height as it was when I got done adjusting them. Mind you, my drums are pretty round. One or maybe two of them have maybe 0.005" variation in diameter which annoys me and makes adjusting a pain but not enough out of round to be felt in the brake pedal. I arced the shoes to the drums using sandpaper and the drum as a sanding jig. I centered and roughly adjusted the location of the shoes with my Ammco 1750 tool and then did a final adjustment tweak by feel on the minor adjusters.

That odd rear mount on front left spring is designed to reduce bump steer. Supposedly the factory engineers knew what they were doing it works. That innovation came after my car was built so I haven't closely examined it to figure out the principle.

In the specifications section of the owners manual for my nearly 11 year old car it lists the passenger+cargo capacity as 845 pounds.