TodFitch

I believe that Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize harmonic balancers. P.S. I have moved this thread to the classified ads parts wanted area as this topic is not allowed in the general forums.

Off topic, but so far as I know there are no local automotive instrument repair shops near me. But there is a very good shoe repair shop very close by. In addition to shoes they will also repair various leather goods, etc.

See: https://www.ply33.com/Repair/tempgauge

From the pictures it looks like the reflector is held in the rim by some spring clips. And that reflector does not look like the back of a sealed beam lamp to me. Were it me, I’d be trying to disassemble it some more. And as Plymouthy points out, there is some corrosion in there to be dealt with along with really aged wiring.

If I recall correctly, sealed beam bulbs are typically identified by "PAR" for "parabolic aluminized reflector) and then a number which is the bulb outer diameter in 8ths of an inch. So a sealed beam replacement would be a 6v PAR36. But that is all from memory and my memory is not what it used to be. And it looks like that is not really a sealed beam setup but rather a bulb and reflector.

For the newer people, DCM is DCM Clasics in Zeeland Michigan. The rear axle vent mentioned is at https://www.dcmclassics.com/catalogs/p/all/parts_by_year-1939_1947_dodge_truck-brake_parts/654d296f1d3770f709bea2dc/br-216-rear-axle-vent

That is a Zerk grease/oil fitting of the type used before 1934. At least before 1934 for US built Plymouths, maybe they kept that style later in other assembly plants. I've got one on each side of my rear axle to grease the wheel bearings. The vent, at least on my car and I think pretty standard for a lot of later years, is a special bolt drilled with a vent hole that holds the brake Tee mounted on the top of the rear axle.

Front axles are tightened just enough that the bearings start to drag when you spin the wheel then backed off to the nearest hole for a cotter pin. Or looking at page 12 in the 1946-54 Plymouth Factory Service Manual: Reprints of the factory service manual are available if you can't find an original. Definitely recommend anyone working on a car have a copy of the factory service manual for that car.

About the only metric thing on the car is the 14mm spark plugs. Maybe the Shrader valves too but I am not certain about those. The 144 an 37 are the number of teeth on the gears. Divide 144 by 37 and you get 3.89189 which is basically 3.9 They use teeth count that are not evenly divisible so that the wear is distributed across all of the gears.

My documentation indicates that the PG used engines PF7232 through PF41049. So I am guessing your engine number is actually PF10400 and came from a PG car. I am not as familiar with the 1934 engine variations as I am for 1933 but I think the main difference between the PE and PF engines is the PE used the later bypass thermostat while the PF did not. Everything else should be the same (watch me get corrected on this last statement). As far as things bolted onto the engine, the PE may have come with an automatic clutch, a slightly different distributor and/or carburetor. As to your car itself, there should be a serial number tag on the passenger side door hinge post. If you post that we can tell what it thinks the car is. If you don’t feel comfortable posting the serial number, you can look it up yourself on my VIN page at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin You may find some other pages on my website useful as well so take a look around when you go there. The PE and PF have independent front suspension while the PG reverted back to a beam axle. The PE had doors on the rear of the sides of the hood (louvers toward the front), PF and PG had louvers only. Headlights and some other trim is also different between the PE Deluxe and the PF Standard or PG Business versions.

If modern manufacture then the DC motors are likely to have permanent magnets for the field so they will be polarity sensitive. Small 6v DC motors are also available on Amazon. I wonder if you could match up the physical size of the 12v DC motor in the heater you are considering with a 6v DC one. . .

I have entered the ones I had from my copy of the "standard parts" book into my website’s database at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18 so you can look up a large number of nuts & bolts there.

Per @Mark D you unscrew them. It might be useful to see how modern replacements look, there are some on the O'Reilly Auto Parts website as well as McMaster-Carr and other sites.

I have seen recent posts from him, or at least someone in the same town with the same car on the AACA forums.

I vaguely recall that the manual for the 1963 Dodge D200 I once had called for ATF in the manual transmission. So I think the transition from gear oil started earlier than the 1970s.

Not for 1933 Plymouth. And based on the intake manifold photos I have seen, apparently at least some later trucks are likely the same as my '33.

I am guessing it meant between 16 and 20 in-oz. Given that these are screws into old die castings with thin walls that might be about right. Being self-taught on old iron where torque specifications weren’t even published, nearly all of the nuts and bolts on my car were tightened by feel. Only exception being the head stud nuts where I used a torque wrench and the specifications for later engines. On my new car the wheel lug nuts are spec’d at 80 to 90 ft-lbs. When I last had the wheels off that car I dug out my torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. I noticed that my "feels about right" tightening worked out to 85 ft-lbs on my torque wrench. I won’t bother with the torque wrench on those lug nuts again, I’ll just do them like I have done them on all my other cars over the years.

Being a bit pedantic, for torque the force and distance values are multiplied rather than divided. So that would be "inch ounces" (in-oz) and "foot pounds" (ft-lb). Unless you are being swayed by the metric system where force is listed first and people use newton-meters, in which case it would be oz-in and lb-ft. I don’t know why the dash is used rather than a multiply sign in the abbreviations.

That is how I’ve done it. And I have also used that technique on the old style brass floats they used to have on fuel tank sending units.

That armored cable might still be a theft deterrent but I suspect that even if a modern thief could hot wire the coil they’d still have trouble starting the car. I don’t know about the '34 Plymouth but on my '33 Plymouth none of the knobs are labeled and you have to get the choke and hand throttle at just the right engine temperature dependent positions to get the car to start easily. Assuming they get past the part where the ignition switch is simply on/off and the starter is a separate pedal on the floor. And then if they are under the age of maybe 50 they probably don’t know how to drive a manual transmission let alone one without synchronizers. Much easier to steal it by winching it on to a flat bed and the armored cable between the coil and ignition switch won’t deter that.

No clue on that one. Got a set of calipers you can measure the offending shaft with? You should be able to look up speedy sleeve sizes based on that.

Maybe I cheated, I started at my own website. I went to my parts cross reference at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric and searched for "timing" which gave me the 1933 Plymouth part number. Which fits for 1933-54. But that listing showed that it was superseded by a newer Chrysler part number of 1075001. So I searched on Rock Auto for that newer Chrysler part number and got a couple of hits. I picked the "kit" version that showed as being in stock. It looks like it is the same SA Gear 73111 part number as @Sniper gave above. Now that you have a modern part number you can search a bunch of regular auto supply stores. For example, it is available at O’Reilly Auto. But maybe you don’t need or want the full kit, just the chain. Getting back to Rock Auto they have information about their out of stock chain only. Based on the Rock Auto part number mapping into a SA Gear part number of 73111 and looking at the Rock Auto chain only part number we can look up C401 on the SA Gear vendor filtered search at O’Reilly Auto and find what looks like the correct chain. I don’t know what auto supplies are near your father-in-law or which ones you prefer to send your business to, but it seems you can probably get the chain locally. I have pretty good luck with maintenance items getting delivered to my local store within a day. I don’t know if that will hold for this less commonly purchased part but it would not surprise me if it was pretty quick.

As Rich writes, it was an anti-theft feature making it hard to hot wire. The cable from the ignition switch to the coil is very tough material which I found out early on when I had a switch/cable/coil assembly with a short in the cable portion and I thought I could cut off the cable and simply run a wire from the switch to the coil. That cable covering defeated the cheap hacksaw that I had at the time.

I am surprised that I no longer see this timing chain on the NAPA website. Rock Auto shows it as part of a kit which appears to also include the gears. Egge Machine in SoCal shows it on their website at https://egge.com/product/timing-chain-243/ but I don’t know how fast they can ship it.

Strictly speaking, requests for purchase should be in the classified ad area. I am leaving this up despite that rule as you haven't been around in a while and may not be aware of that rule. But I am locking this thread so that any responders will have to follow the rule to use PMs if they have something to offer.