TodFitch

My documentation indicates that the PG used engines PF7232 through PF41049. So I am guessing your engine number is actually PF10400 and came from a PG car. I am not as familiar with the 1934 engine variations as I am for 1933 but I think the main difference between the PE and PF engines is the PE used the later bypass thermostat while the PF did not. Everything else should be the same (watch me get corrected on this last statement). As far as things bolted onto the engine, the PE may have come with an automatic clutch, a slightly different distributor and/or carburetor. As to your car itself, there should be a serial number tag on the passenger side door hinge post. If you post that we can tell what it thinks the car is. If you don’t feel comfortable posting the serial number, you can look it up yourself on my VIN page at https://www.ply33.com/Misc/vin You may find some other pages on my website useful as well so take a look around when you go there. The PE and PF have independent front suspension while the PG reverted back to a beam axle. The PE had doors on the rear of the sides of the hood (louvers toward the front), PF and PG had louvers only. Headlights and some other trim is also different between the PE Deluxe and the PF Standard or PG Business versions.

If modern manufacture then the DC motors are likely to have permanent magnets for the field so they will be polarity sensitive. Small 6v DC motors are also available on Amazon. I wonder if you could match up the physical size of the 12v DC motor in the heater you are considering with a 6v DC one. . .

I have entered the ones I had from my copy of the "standard parts" book into my website’s database at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group18 so you can look up a large number of nuts & bolts there.

Per @Mark D you unscrew them. It might be useful to see how modern replacements look, there are some on the O'Reilly Auto Parts website as well as McMaster-Carr and other sites.

I have seen recent posts from him, or at least someone in the same town with the same car on the AACA forums.

I vaguely recall that the manual for the 1963 Dodge D200 I once had called for ATF in the manual transmission. So I think the transition from gear oil started earlier than the 1970s.

Not for 1933 Plymouth. And based on the intake manifold photos I have seen, apparently at least some later trucks are likely the same as my '33.

I am guessing it meant between 16 and 20 in-oz. Given that these are screws into old die castings with thin walls that might be about right. Being self-taught on old iron where torque specifications weren’t even published, nearly all of the nuts and bolts on my car were tightened by feel. Only exception being the head stud nuts where I used a torque wrench and the specifications for later engines. On my new car the wheel lug nuts are spec’d at 80 to 90 ft-lbs. When I last had the wheels off that car I dug out my torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts. I noticed that my "feels about right" tightening worked out to 85 ft-lbs on my torque wrench. I won’t bother with the torque wrench on those lug nuts again, I’ll just do them like I have done them on all my other cars over the years.

Being a bit pedantic, for torque the force and distance values are multiplied rather than divided. So that would be "inch ounces" (in-oz) and "foot pounds" (ft-lb). Unless you are being swayed by the metric system where force is listed first and people use newton-meters, in which case it would be oz-in and lb-ft. I don’t know why the dash is used rather than a multiply sign in the abbreviations.

That is how I’ve done it. And I have also used that technique on the old style brass floats they used to have on fuel tank sending units.

That armored cable might still be a theft deterrent but I suspect that even if a modern thief could hot wire the coil they’d still have trouble starting the car. I don’t know about the '34 Plymouth but on my '33 Plymouth none of the knobs are labeled and you have to get the choke and hand throttle at just the right engine temperature dependent positions to get the car to start easily. Assuming they get past the part where the ignition switch is simply on/off and the starter is a separate pedal on the floor. And then if they are under the age of maybe 50 they probably don’t know how to drive a manual transmission let alone one without synchronizers. Much easier to steal it by winching it on to a flat bed and the armored cable between the coil and ignition switch won’t deter that.

No clue on that one. Got a set of calipers you can measure the offending shaft with? You should be able to look up speedy sleeve sizes based on that.

Maybe I cheated, I started at my own website. I went to my parts cross reference at https://www.ply33.com/Parts/numeric and searched for "timing" which gave me the 1933 Plymouth part number. Which fits for 1933-54. But that listing showed that it was superseded by a newer Chrysler part number of 1075001. So I searched on Rock Auto for that newer Chrysler part number and got a couple of hits. I picked the "kit" version that showed as being in stock. It looks like it is the same SA Gear 73111 part number as @Sniper gave above. Now that you have a modern part number you can search a bunch of regular auto supply stores. For example, it is available at O’Reilly Auto. But maybe you don’t need or want the full kit, just the chain. Getting back to Rock Auto they have information about their out of stock chain only. Based on the Rock Auto part number mapping into a SA Gear part number of 73111 and looking at the Rock Auto chain only part number we can look up C401 on the SA Gear vendor filtered search at O’Reilly Auto and find what looks like the correct chain. I don’t know what auto supplies are near your father-in-law or which ones you prefer to send your business to, but it seems you can probably get the chain locally. I have pretty good luck with maintenance items getting delivered to my local store within a day. I don’t know if that will hold for this less commonly purchased part but it would not surprise me if it was pretty quick.

As Rich writes, it was an anti-theft feature making it hard to hot wire. The cable from the ignition switch to the coil is very tough material which I found out early on when I had a switch/cable/coil assembly with a short in the cable portion and I thought I could cut off the cable and simply run a wire from the switch to the coil. That cable covering defeated the cheap hacksaw that I had at the time.

I am surprised that I no longer see this timing chain on the NAPA website. Rock Auto shows it as part of a kit which appears to also include the gears. Egge Machine in SoCal shows it on their website at https://egge.com/product/timing-chain-243/ but I don’t know how fast they can ship it.

Strictly speaking, requests for purchase should be in the classified ad area. I am leaving this up despite that rule as you haven't been around in a while and may not be aware of that rule. But I am locking this thread so that any responders will have to follow the rule to use PMs if they have something to offer.

Cars and trucks generally had hand throttles when they also had provision for using a hand crank to start the engine. It is awful hard to start a cold, probably worn and slightly out of tune engine using a hand crank. Being able to set a hand throttle moves the task from nearly impossible to merely horrible and very tiring. I am not an expert on the truck side but I wouldn’t be too surprised if there is a small hole through the grill or front sheet metal that lines up with the crankshaft pulley and if the correct nut is used to attach the pulley you can turn the engine over with a crank.

For 1933 and I don’t think 1934 is different the automatic clutch/freewheeling knob on the dash has three positions: All the way out everything is locked out. Half way in, only freewheeling is enabled. All the way in, both freewheeling and automatic clutch are enabled. Freewheeling is built into the back of the transmission, a sliding dog clutch actuated by a lever on the side of the transmission locks and unlocks the unit. Putting the transmission in reverse also locks the freewheeling. Automatic clutch is separate vacuum operated device mounted beside the engine with a couple of control linkages. One is a cable/stiff wire from the freewheeling lever on the side of the transmission that enables/disables it. The other is a rod connected to the throttle linkage. It is connected to the clutch release levers just the same as the clutch pedal. The concept is that when you take your foot off the accelerator it will disengage the clutch. Basically, the freewheeling disconnects the transmission from the drive shaft. Automatic clutch disconnects the transmission from the engine. Anyway, if the automatic clutch is enabled you never need to use the clutch pedal at all. Just take your foot off the gas, move the shift lever, then put your foot back on the gas. Since freewheeling is enabled when automatic clutch is enabled with your foot off the accelerator the transmission is disconnected at both the input and output and can be easily shifted up or down. If the automatic clutch is disabled but freewheeling is enabled you need to use the clutch for starting and when coming to a stop. But you can shift between gears relatively quietly once moving by simply removing your foot from the accelerator. In this case, the transmission is only disconnected from the drive shaft only but if you slow the engine down and thus the gears in the transmission too, you can usually get them to mesh with out noise. The automatic clutch units were troublesome and since there was no filter on the air coming into them the pot metal vacuum control spool valve wore out. They also take a fair amount of space under hood. The net result is that almost all of them were removed and thrown out fairly early in the vehicle’s life. The freewheeling device was pretty robust and did not give much trouble. Other than being scary as heck in hilly terrain and generally being considered unsafe. Usually the fix was to wire the control lever on the side of the transmission to the locked out position. But apparently some mechanics opened up the transmission and welded the freewheeling units.

The tight fit between the tapered shaft and the tapered hole in the hub is what actually transmits the torque between the axle and the hub. Basically the same as your tapered quill on machine tools. The square key is mostly to get things aligned. I would be very cautious about using any lubricant on the axle taper.

If you measure the temperature near the sending unit (bulb) on the left rear of the block you should be reading close to the temperature the bulb is sensing.

Sheets of gasket stock are available. A hole punch set is pretty cheap at Harbor Freight and I bet you have some scissors and a shop knife at your house. Some gaskets are best purchased but it is amazing how many can be made with relatively little time, effort or cost.

Great! And thanks for getting back to us with your success, it is nice to know when the forum was able to help.

Your '49 is a bit newer than I am used to, but they look bog standard in your photo. Here is what mine look like with the puller attached: My write up on replacing the rear main seal on a 1933 model also covers removing the rear drums, so it might be helpful.

Regarding the Plymouth Club website, it is lightly trafficked. I hear they have a Facebook page that is more active but I don’t do Facebook so can’t tell you how to find it. I am back home now and have access to a copy of the Plymouth Owners Club’s magazine which has the contact information for the 1934 technical advisor on the inside of the front cover. I will use the personal message (PM) of this forum to send you that information.

Two things help a lot: First, make sure you have something close to the summer weight gear lubricant recommended in the manual in the transmission. That makes a huge difference in shifting. Second, when up shifting you will want to be in high by 15 or 20 MPH. 25 MPH tops. First and second are really just to get you started, almost all the time you will be in direct. None of this revving up in all the gears for maximum acceleration you are used to on much later cars. Back then it was all about the engine being quiet and smooth at low speeds. For down shifting, all I can suggest is practice, practice and more practice. It helps if the vehicle is going slow, remember you will be in high down to 15 or 20 MPH. Trying to double clutch downshift at higher speeds it really hard to get right.