hkestes41

Try these out for a place to start. Link Bob mentioned above. Use "Password" as the password http://chetscoins.com/1948p15/DocumentWeb/_vti_bin/shtml.dll/index.htm http://www.oldmoparts.com/ http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/index.html What are you doing to the car ie: leaving stock, upgrading the flathead, V8?

I have gone with new LED lights that offer tail light, brake light and turn signal functions. Not to mention that they are very bright and the rapid flash feature when the brake pedal is applied gets a lot of attention from the drivers following me. Here is a link to the brochure for the new lights. http://www.cool-leds.com/6046_46Plymouth.pdf

Andy, Here is his email address that was active in June 2007 edgerton@pacbell.net I have also posted a portion of one of the emails he sent me that will give you some info on his cam and head.

I will be doing my exhaust before long and will be using cast headers from Langdon's. What diameter tubing is everyone using?

Jim, Have a look at this. http://chetscoins.com/1948p15/DocumentWeb/Parts_Reference/016.pdf

Tank, Check out this thread. There is a head milling chart down a little ways that shows compression increases based on the amount milled off. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=668&highlight=head+milling+chart

Tank, You have a great looking ride. Who would ever have thought the 49 could look that good? I got my dual carb set-up from Langdons' Stovebolts http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ . Everything from the manifold to carbs, carb adaptors and linkage. They were great to work with and shipping was quick and I thought pricing was reasonaable. They also have an HEI distributor and coil for the Mopar flathead along with cast iron headers as well. While the picture below is not my engine, I believe it is the same set-up I will be running once I drop the new engine in my 48 coupe.

I would be interested in the hood brace if it has one.

Yeah Norm, it wasn't too bad. It was $1200 including the ceramic coated headers, header flange and seal kit, heat plate, intake, carb linkage, new carter/webbers, carb adaptors, air cleaners, HEI, high voltage coil, spark plugs, and side covers. Tom Langdon was very helpful when I talked with him and was a wealth of information. It was also great getting everything in one place. I had found bits and pieces of the package at a little lower prices elsewhere. But when I started looking at the hassle of multiple orders and shipping costs from several places just didn't make sense.

I bought a dual Offy intake and cast iron headers and HEI distributor from Langdon's. http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ Don't have them on the engine yet will be doing that in the next month or so.

I actually had the privellege of flying in a Ford Tri-Motor in 1978 as a Junior in High School. At the time my dream was to become a Naval Aviator (damned eyesight) and was in Naval ROTC in school. There was an airshow at the local airport in which the Blue Angles were performing so some of the ROTC officers were working at the airshow in uniform being go-fers for the Blue Angles. The Tri-Motor was parked next to where the Blue Angles were parking their planes and we had a very good conversation with the owner/pilot of the Tri-Motor. After the show was over he came to us and offered to take us for a short ride. We took about a 15-20 minute flight. I remember that it was very LOUD and slow. Flying at about 1/4 the speed of commercial jets it seemed like we would never make it up let alone stay up. It was a blast and something I will never forget.

OK. I know that this is going to sound ridiculous, but I have searched all over the local area and have been unable to find the right size grease zircs to fit the control arm bushing nuts. I have tried every parts store and hardware store I can think of and nothing is small enough. Does anyone out there have 4 spares? At this point, I'm willing to pay a premium for them. Just let me know.

I am getting ready to replace current engine / trans in my 48 coupe with one from a 53 with an R10 Overdrive. My coupe had been converted to 12 volts when I bought it. So, my question is do I need to replace the solenoids on the overdrive with 12 volt units or can I use a voltage regulator and the current 6 volt solenoids? If I can use a voltage regulator what do I need to look for? If I need to get new solenoids where do I get them and how much are they going to cost me? Obviously electrical is not my strong point.

Plano, TX Suburb of Big D

Then is she really the better half?

Tim, That is a kit sold by Stylin Concepts http://www.stylintrucks.com/template_news.aspx?aliaspath=%2Fpressreleases%2Fstudebaker-coversion-kit It is built on an S-10. I thought it was pretty sharp the first few times I saw one now they are getting to be as you point out cookie cutter.

Greg, I am sure you will love your visit to Ireland. My family went about 3 years ago. Spent 10 days in Killarney (Southwest Ireland). Best vacation we have ever had. We will be going back again in the future. Very friendly people.

Just purchased a 218 and overdrive from a 53 Suburban for a grand total of $275. Had to go to Denver to pick it up but was able to schedule it around a business trip so only had to really drive one way. Anyway, I talked to the mechanic who is doing the work on the Suburban for the guy I bought the engine and trans from and he said both were working fine (rear main leaking on engine) when they were pulled. He is doing a front subframe and installing a 5.7L Hemi and automatic in the Suburban. He also said that they had put a new clutch in the car about 6 months before he pulled them. I saw the Suburban and it was in pretty decent shape looked like it had been well cared for so hopefully the running gear was as well. My question is what do I need to look for when inspecting the OD before installing it and the 218 in my 48? I have zero experience with these transmissions and don't want to pulling my running engine / 3 speed and install the "new" ones without a fairly warm and fuzzy that they are in good shape. Don't have the funds right now to rebuild them both so hoping to install them and run it as is for a while. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Here is one of my dad's of course it was his old modified but the folk in the first few rows were probably puckered up.

Just in case anyone might be interested. On my way back to Dallas from Denver with my "new" $275 dollar 218 and Overdrive from a 53 Suburban. I saw a 39 Dodge 2 Door Sedan for sale this evening in Dumas, TX. From what I could see at night the 39 looked to be fairly solid. I did take a couple of pictures and will put them up once I get home tomorrow. The car was at the following address and I looked up the business' phone number as well. JJ's Vending 201 West 1st Street Dumas, TX 79029 806-935-7480

Was checking out some of the Drag posts on the HAMB site and this video is on their front page. Be sure to watch all 3 minutes. The first couple are not much but the last 15 seconds or so make up for it.

I have redone the front brakes on my 48 with new lines, wheel cylinders, springs and shoes. Now I can't get the brake drums back on. I have the cam nut minor adjusters turned so that the drums are fully retracted and the anchor bolts turned with the arrows facing the wheel cylinders. When I try to put the drums on it is off by pretty much the thickness of the brake shoe lining. I have held the old shoes up to the new ones and they appear to be the same. Any ideas or suggestions? Here is a picture of what I have see anything out of place?

Me to. I was often given crap for my first car a 48 Plymouth Business Coupe. As far as my friends were concerned in the mid 70's it was just an old car. They were all driving their late 60's Camaros, Novas, Mustangs etc. Now my 48 Club Coupe gets the waves and thumbs up even from the kids and it is not as nice as my first one was.

Not a kit just individual parts. Not all Mopar parts sold by Landon is on their web site so I would suggest ordering a print catalog or calling. Tom Langdon was very helpful and forthcoming with information and advice. Yes the distributor/coil are 12 volt.

Mr. Belvedere, Langdon's Stovebolt seems to have fair pricing compared to what I was able to find elsewhere. I purchased all the parts shown for just over $1,200. Included the Offy intake, Heat Plate for intake, Carb Adaptors, New Carter/Weber Carbs, Linkage, Mopar Mini HEI, Coil, Finned Side Covers, Ceramic Coated Cast Iron Headers, and Air Cleaners. As for the performance increase, I don't know as I have not installed them yet. Should open up the breathing quite a bit and as was said earlier will be good to look at.