Daliant.

On my 46 plymouth I have 57" from inside to inside at the B pillar with the tape measure resting on the hump.

All I got was a big pile of seat stuffing which was soaked in mouse piss and riddled with droppings of various sizes.

Welcome aboard Derek I've seen that car around before but I cant quite remember where or when, nice looking cruiser.

Here's a current pic

I used a length of barn door track from Tractor Supply when I built the rockers on my '46, my local steel supplier didn't have anything in a light enough gauge that I could easily work with. The only drawback to the barn door track is that it's more of a squred off "C" shape than a rectangle tube, there's a cut out along one edge for the sliding hardware. The rockers on a P15 do have a slight bow to them if I remember correctly. I've never been a fan of the way the bottom of a P15 flairs out so I built the bottom of my car to look like a '39 Dodge (minus the running boards). Those were some of the in progress pictures, the site wont let me load any current pictures I have.

Lake Erie is 96% covered in ice this year, more often than not it is at least 50% covered by this time in the season with the exception of a handful of abnormally warm winters where it was only partially covered (less than 20%). This year all the lakes except Ontario are over 90% covered. Frozen lakes usually keep the snow totals down but not this year. This winter can't end soon enough for me.

It's a Ford 226

I zip-tied the brake hose to the upright to keep the hose out of harms way when I swapped in the disks on my car, I left a little slack in the line so it has room to move when turning.

Looks like a '37 or '38 Pontiac.

Pull the sill plates off and take it to one of those rust-proofing places, they have long wands to shoot that stuff into enclosed areas plus the stuff they use is almost like a runny jelly, it'll stay in there for a while. Used motor oil in a garden sprayer is a good DYI option.

How come? I have an oil bath converted to paper filter on my 318 and it flows plenty of air, granted it's the bigger v8 filter housing but as long as the paper element isn't too small for the engine or to big for the housing that it blocks air flow it should be fine.

The date code is under the distributor, looks like (?-3-47)

If you have you heart set on an LS chevy motor, then clipping the original chassis with an s10 or other gm front clip is probably not a bad option however using the stock plymouth front end with any of the common v8 engines is totally doable, both have their drawbacks though. If you keep the stock chassis the firewall, steering box and shaft will be your biggest obstacles plus converting to disk brakes and rebuilding the control arms, king pins etc... If you use an s10 or some type of gm front clip you get disk brakes, power steering a front end that you can rebuild for $100, the steering box wont be in the way, you can use bolt in style motor mounts for the ls motor, but you will have to build a steering column, figure out how to mount the radiator, attach the front sheetmetal and bumper to the new front clip, etc... There's no way to do an engine swap in these cars without some type of fabrication involved so it all depends on your fab skills and what your comfortable with.

These transmissions don't shift like a typical later model 3 speed, one lever does all shifting and one lever selects either 1st and reverse or 2nd and high. The lever that sicks out of the top of the side cover is the one that allows you to select 1 and R or 2 and high, move this one back and forth and watch for any up and down movement on the shaft, if you notice any up and down movement there is a set screw that holds the shaft from moving which is either loose or worn out. This will prevent you from getting into 2nd or high gear.

The spacer in Charlie's kit only provides a way to set the pre load on the inner bearing, the bearing itself needs to fit snug to the O.D. of the spindle. The timkin set 17 bearing/race has the correct O.D. race for the rotor but the I.D. on the bearing is too big for the spindle, it'll just flop around like you described, you need the timkin set 6 for the correct bearing I.D. you just use the #6 bearing with the #17 race.

They just bought a pea green 46 Lincoln on this weeks episode.

The parking brake cable goes through the upper hole in the firewall, it's a straight shot out of the bracket for the handle, the hole is about the size of a quarter. There is a bracket that attatches to both the cable and the steering column on the engine side of the firewall, after that it loops down and hooks into the transmission on a stocker, in my case I welded a bracket to the frame and tee'd off to two cables going to the rear end similar to newer pickup truck. My car has a 318/ 4 speed/ 8 3/4 rear. The speedo cable comes out of the cluster, runs parallel to the steering column and then makes a right turn and goes out the oval hole that's above the gas pedal, it comes out pointing at the distributor on a car with a V8. There's a small tab that clamps the cable to the firewall once it passes through to the engine side holding the cable away from the engine, after that it loops down and plugs into the transmission. As for the garnish molding, my car didn't have the stock interior in it when I got it but there is welt bead up the A pillars and across the dash.

You'll also have to switch the electrical system over to 24 volt.

I was thinking the same thing, those carbs seem to sit at a pretty steep angle.

5/16" line is what you would find on a stock 318 equipped vehicle.

Don't know how your fabrication skills are or maybe you know someone who is handy but this doesn't look like it would be too hard to build, or you might get lucky and score a shifter off of ebay but floor shifters for mopar 3 speeds are pretty scarce and as far as I know nobody makes anything like that anymore.

I rarely use the clutch (upshift or down) on any of my personal vehicles once I'm moving, unless I'm in a vehicle that I'm not familiar with I'll use the clutch until I get used to the shift points and the rpm drop between gears. I will use the clutch if I'm in a hurry though, like when I take the '46 down the dragstrip or a quick blast down a country road.

The pick up plate is held in to the distributor body with two screws, the vacuum advance arm is removed by carefully separating the pickup plate from the base plate enough to get the advance arm out. Be carefull separating the pickup plate, there is a spring clip retainer underneath that could break or distort if the two plates are pried apart too far.

The whole bottom of the car from the rockers and up about 8" is all custom fabricated including the bottoms of the front and rear fenders. When I got the car it was pretty rusty especially the bottom 6" of the car, it all needed to be replaced. I never cared for the way the bottom of the 46-48 Plymouths looked so since all that metal needed to be replaced anyway I took it upon myself to make my 46 look similar to a 40-41 without the running boards, which is the look I prefer, especially on a business coupe. I doubt any kind of stock moulding would fit since the rockers are custom made.

Here's my version of a '46 with running board delete