Daliant.

That swap meet was rediculously overcrowded, I think the nice weather brought alot of people out of hibernation.

Thanks, those pics helped.

I've got 8 1/4" from the column support to the base of the wheel on my 46

I cant locate the V.I.N. that should be stamped on the driver side frame rail. I know its supposed to be near the kick up over the axle but all I can find is LP15L stamped in about 1/2" tall letters which I'm assuming is the just part number for the frame rail because the passenger side is stamped P15R. Anyone have a picture that shows the the size of the letters? Is it possable that the frame was never stamped or maybe stamped in another location,top of the rail maybe?

60-71 225: HP:145 @ 4000 rpm TQ:215 @ 2400 rpm In '72 the advertised horsepower ratings (mosly for bigger high perfomance engines) were fudged due to insurance and emmissions regulations but the actual numbers were probably on par with the older engines as long the compression ratio didn't drop, the slant six always had a compression ratio around 8.5 to 1

Natural selection isn't being allowed to run its course anymore so what you see is what you get.

There are alot of variables when it comes to welding especially when it involves an inexpencive (horrible freight?) welder with limited heat and wire speed settings. Keep your ground clamp clean and clamp near the area to be welded. I'm assuming you only have a high or low heat setting on your welder so you will have to fine tune your weld penetration with the wire feed speed and how fast you move. Without knowing what guage steel your working with and not being familiar with your machine I cant say what settings will work best, but I would say that your wire speed is too fast if your welds look like caterpillers. Slow your wire speed down to the point where the weld kinda balls up and burns up to the tip of gun, then turn up the wire speed one notch. If you start to burn through then move a little faster. Flux core wire is pretty forgiving when it comes to welding dirty (painted/rusty) metal but the cleaner you can get it the better. The problem could also be with the 110v side, you said the welder is on its own dedicated line (which is good) but there could be a bad connection somewhere like a plug or even in the breaker box itself.

My P15 has a floor shifter on the original 3 spd trans, I have no idea what brand it is but it is very basic and pretty worn out, it does work though. It originally had a short (about 12" long) handle on it which wanted to occupy the same space as my right knee, I bent up a length of 1/2" round bar and made a more user friendly handle for it. Here's some pics of it: Looking up from directly underneath: Better angle from underneath: Looking twards front of car: Handle attachment, it just screws in w/jam nut: