Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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Casper50, front discs only?
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Thanks everyone, now I have a better understanding. I’ll have to think about this.
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I think I understand but I’m still not sure what the valve in the original mc looks like.
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I’m sure this has been gone over numerous times but please bear with me. I was looking at scarebirds website and I’m wondering what the residual pressure valve is in the MC.
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A while back when bleeding my brakes I had a leak on one of the connections inside the front drum. Made a mess of my shoes. Would it be possible to bleed the brakes using a mitivac with the drums off after properly adjusting the brakes? I’m wondering if this would show any leaks like when the pedal is pushed but without shooting the pistons out. Any thoughts?
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My 52 Coronet runs between 190 and 200 all day with no problems. Remember that the sensor is at the rear of the engine so it will be hotter than the thermostat temperature. If you’re not having problems with it boiling over I wouldn’t worry.
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That explains the problem I had with my D24 after I switched to silicon fluid. Live and learn.
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I’m not planning on doing this but has anyone ever run a split manifold on a M6 equipped car? Since the trans is carb dependent for shifting I’m not sure if it’s possible. Just one of those weird things that popped into my head. Any thoughts?
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Did you re-torque the head bolts after a few warm up cycles? My Coronet runs hotter since the rebuild also, 190 average. I’ve never let mine sit more than a few days so I’ve never had any problems. Have you checked for coolant in the oil? There is a lot of knowledge on this forum. Someone will point you in the right direction. Good luck.
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Thanks everyone
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Thanks
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Does anyone know if a head from a 48 230 fit a 52 230? Found a crack in the head on my Coronet. Not sure how long it’s been there. No sign of anything leaking. I have an extra head if I need it just not sure if it’ll work.
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The mechanic said he re-torqued the head after the first warm up but I will check again. If I remember correctly the engine should be warm not operating temperature.
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Not overheating. The freeze plug on the head above number 6 was being pushed up. This is the 3rd plug that’s leaked. There seems to be too much pressure in the block and I’m stumped as to why.
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It’s that whole “installed correctly “ part that worries me. I’ve never seen coolant come out of the overflow on the radiator no matter the engine temperature. This car has been a nightmare since the rebuild.
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I agree. Hopefully the correct cap fixes things. I’ve had more problems since the rebuild than you could believe. I just want to drive this car.
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Thanks, that explains a lot. I’ve resealed just about every freeze plug on this thing. It had a 4 pound cap that apparently got changed during the engine rebuild. I’ll get the correct one and see if that works.
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What pressure cap should be on a 52 Coronet? I’m thinking 4 pounds. Someone put a 7 pound on mine and I’m having problems.
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Good to know. Thanks everyone.
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What a great idea! Love it.
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I’m in need of a new battery. I’m thinking of an optima. I still have a 6 volt system. Anyone have any problems with them?
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None of my cars have had a cover there.
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Either the car temporarily fixed itself or i figured it out. There are 2 wires wrapped around the e-brake cable that were making intermittent contact. It appears to be the brake light switch harness. My switch is near the rear axle. Not sure why or why these wires were left hanging but I hope I’m done with that problem. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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I’m sure this has been covered before but here goes. What made you pick the car you drive? In my case my parents bought a new 52 Coronet 4 door. We had it long enough for me to learn to drive on it in 1978. Just wondering.
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I’m thinking I have a bad ground. Over the winter the engine was rebuilt ( twice, don’t ask). I’m going to check under the car to see what I can find. I’m also going to add a ground strap from the block to the firewall. If I throw enough money at it surely it’ll eventually be fixed. LOL!
