Mark D

Great looking coupe rockwood. Love that sunset shot.

Very cool. Love to see that in person someday.

I've got a turn signal indicator light mounted in the center dash mounted below the ash tray in the place that I've seen most cigar lighters located at. Problem is that I can't get the darn thing to work with the signals. I've replaced the 6v three prong flasher, rewired the bulb socket (and checked that the bulb worked in the socket). All turn signals on the exterior of the car work correctly but I cannot get that light to work when its plugged into the flasher monitor terminal. If I unplug the lead from the bulb and touch the output terminal on the flasher the bulb lights up. Any suggestions? Currently the flash is just tucked up under the dash near the ignition switch. Does the body of the flasher need to be grounded? Can anyone else with factory fitted turn signals confirm the indicator light is original?

Here's the link to the one I saw on ebay for $190.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360356415488&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

I've seen them on E-bay, but the price was 3x what I paid from Roberts. I think Bernbaum sells them as well, not sure they are NOS or new castings. NAPA told me that they'd have to place a factory order if I wanted one from them. Price was comparable to Roberts, but lead time was weeks away. NAPA did a search on their network and said there was nothing in the US...

The new pump shipped from Roberts with one extra long bolt to cover the casting change visible in the water pump photo. Also included where three gaskets and a plug which fits in the tapped hole. Not sure what thats for, suspect the pump has mulitple mopar applications.

Thanks for the part number. I'm confused as to why Roberts would have sent me the other... A cursory look at the old t-stat and I saw what the action was. It was clear that the hot water bypasses the Tstat for the heater line. So I'll order a replacement and drop that in the parts box for the fall when I plan to strip the engine paint, degrease and repaint.

I've read several posts regarding stuck distribution tubes, it was surprising that is slid out so easily. One finger was all it took.

Will add a couple more of the completed surgery tomorrow. Guage shot shows her running at full temp.

Just thought I'd share a few photos from my water pump change for posterity. Waife called at noon to say that my pump arrived from Roberts, so I took off for the afternoon and promptly went home and performed the surgery. Happy to say it was painless and the patient was gladly making no more squeaky noise as I drove her off to the local cruise in by 6pm! Interesting to note, the new t-stat that Roberts sent looked nothing like the old and it was in good shape so I put it back in until I can learn more about that situation. Was able to partially pull out the water distribution tube with one finger. I used high temp RTV on both sides of all gaskets before I put her back together. Somehow forgot to get a completion shot... Will add that later.

I can't imagine the challenges ahead of you, but hope that they all pass without to much personal pain. Our thoughts and prayers are with you all.

Looks like Sunday it might be dry here in Central Mass. Been raining round these parts since last Sunday night. We've had 2.25" of rainfall so far and they say another 1" before it's over. I guess I'll spend Saturday changing out the water pump if the USPS gets it to me in time.

Love to see some more photos of the interior, exterior and under the hood! Best of luck and welcome to the forum.

I ordered the parking brake lining from Gary Roberts and decided Saturday was the day to tackle the job. So I headed over to a friends house and put the car on his lift. After doing an oil change I dropped the driveshaft at the rear end, unbolted the entire mechanism including the actuator and slid it off the driveshaft, then re-bolted the driveshaft and took the car home. Sunday I photographed the entire thing and took all the pieces apart, cleaned them and painted them one at a time. When the paint dried, (or almost dried - it was a damp day), I pulled all of the old rivets and clamped the new lining in the band, drilled holes to match the rivets size and then pulled the lining and drilled counter sinks for the rivet heads. From there on in it was a matter of setting the rivets with a cold chisel and my late maternal grandfathers planishing hammer. After that it was a matter of Sunday afternoon reassembly on the car with my son helping me by my side on his back beneath the car with me. I'd encourage anyone to give this a try. It was easy to do. Before, mid rivet, and after shots attached.

Very cool and very fascinating indeed. Nice collection.

Pure guess work... But truth be told I was more impressed with the Jiffy Jet windshield washer system.

Yes, it's got a Hemi...

This one was for sale - $8k... 27000 miles, interior and paint in mint condition. Didnt get to look under the hood at all.

A few shots from the season opener at Kimballs Ice Cream in Lancaster, MA. Took my car and got a nice up front spot, but failed to take any shots of it! Guess I was too awestruck from the scenery...

Nice pictures as usual. Always look forward to your posts.

Love to get behind the wheel of a 20's vintage car someday myself. That Lincoln engine looks like it's got some oomph!

I was just gonna ask that same question...

Hey thanks for the pointers TJM. I'll give that a try this weekend. I did take the clock apart, but wasn't sure about going any further, so it went back together and back into the dash. Seems I'm missing a knob as well, but that's another battle. Getting the clock running would be a real bonus.

Anyone ever used one of these kits to convert their p15 Clock to a quartz movement? I'm unsettled as to whether I should replace guts or send it out for repair? I don't think this clock is original to the car and think one of the PO's may have installed it due to the fact I can't find any power feeds or light bulbs for the it. I pulled it last weekend to see if I could get it to run after reading several threads suggesting minor cleaning, and it appears to be in good shape. The quartz kits on ebay sell for 90$ - what's a repair go for? Is it worth it? I like the idea of originality, and don't want to spoil a clock that seems to have some value... (that is if the asking price of 675$ for the one on ebay is an indicator of value.. .) http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Borg-Clock-Quartz-Conversion-Kit-I-3035-Repair-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f0302dfd5QQitemZ270633459669QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories PS, there's a decent Borg clock for a '41 Chrysler on ebay right now if anyone is looking for one of them...

Awesome shot of the mopar reflected in the hubcap. Well done! And keep 'em coming.