Desotodav

I haven't seen anything in any manuals about how tight they should be Mark, but you don't want to bottom out the zerk fitting. I tightened mine up to the point that they looked right and I still had enough room to get grease into them between the bushing and the shackle. Desotodav

Great videos Mark. I agree with Hank. I planned on not installing indicators on my 52 truck, but then I found that very few people on the road these days understand hand signals. I installed dual-filament 'pigtails' in my parker buckets and turned them into parkers/indicators. I installed a couple of small discreet 'bullet' style indicators in the rear. I found that this gave me peace of mind knowing that other road users knew what I was up to when making a turn. I also agree with Paul about the engine revs - having legally driven heavy vehicles since I was 19 years old. I am sure that with time you will be well aware of the optimal revs for your truck to manage a smooth gear change. I had to replace a second gear syncro ring in my gearbox during rebuild. I am told that the Studebaker one used was a perfect match for the Mopar one. Dropping back to first gear whilst moving poses more of a problem for my truck. Well done on the project so far mate! Desotodav

Window regulators should be easy enough to replace as the door glass doesn't have to come out. There's a few bolts holding them in from the door inside, and 2 clips on the bottom slide rail of the door glass. Try the 'search' function from the tool bar above on 'door windows' and see what you turn up. This picture from the parts manual may assist you... Desotodav

Congratulations Mark! I remember a thread not so long go where "some guy" was sitting on a crate driving a bare chassis around - boy haven't you progressed in leaps and bounds since that day!!! Desotodav

Welcome aboard Chris. Nice solid looking truck. You've certainly come to the right place to assist you along your restoration journey! Desotodav

I found the same with my rebuilt gearbox, and I think we established a while back that most of these gearboxes will leak there in time. Check out this thread... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=26305&highlight=gearbox+leak ... where we have discussed the problem before. I found a solution from an Engineer friend of mine (see post # 12 in that thread) but it involves removing the 'countershaft 21-24-2' and cutting a slot in either end of it to fit an 'o' ring where it sits in the 'case 21-03-1'. Easily enough done - but fiddly! I recently found a cure for the common oil leak from the speedo drive connection to the gearbox by installing a new 'seal 21-85-56' at that location (see post # 15 in this thread)... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17832 . Desotodav

Great job Mark. Looks pretty near NOS to me! Desotodav

We do our beds high in Oz!!!... Desotodav

Sorry to hear of the diagnosis Bob, but all shall be well!! Early detection/intervention, positive thoughts, prayers and support from friends and loved ones is the start of a cure for cancer in my eyes. Having said that, and knowing that you have the full support of your extended Mopar family here, I expect a speedy recovery! Warm wishes and kind thoughts are extended to you and family (including Cooper) from myself and my family here in sunny Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. Desotodav

Great job Mark. Love that sound - music to a Mopar truck man's ears!!! Desotodav

I think that it looks great Jeff - no matter what colour it is! You might consider insulating the fuel line and leaving it in the original position (as you have it) if the fuel vaporising issue concerns you? I look forward to seeing and hearing a video soon of it running. Desotodav

Great job Jason. Looks like you'll be driving around in it in no time! Good to see that you kept to the original stitch pattern for the seat too. Desotodav

I would have to agree with you on that Mark. I had to get the wifey help me with mine and did it with the door almost closed. Trying to reach around under the back end of the front fender whilst holding on to the back of the bolt was definitely not a 1 person task! Desotodav

Try searching with 'gearbox' and 'speed'. Maybe these pictures from the manual would help you... Desotodav

I love trawling through these old posts to rectify my current problems. I have tried numerous times to fix an oil leak coming from the speedo cable connector area on the right-side rear of my 52 truck (3 speed) gearbox - but today I believe that I have cured the problem! I removed the 'sleeve 21-85-76' so that I was able to get to the 'oil seal 21-85-56'. I dropped down to the local seal shop and collected a thing that the fella called a 'rotary seal' which was almost a perfect match for the original seal. I returned home and installed the 'pinion 21-85-5' along with the other parts and found that the seal created a nice tight fit on the shaft of the pinion. The old seal had gone hard over the past 60 years and fitted quite loosely on the shaft of the pinion. I can't wait to get the truck out of the garage now as I think that I am down to only 1 oil leak to fix now (front timing chain cover). Photos to follow for those that are interested... Desotodav

Congratulations Paul. I thought it was funny too how the pets ran for cover in the street when they heard you coming. It sounds like the daughter (and grandkids) were suitably impressed as well. Good job mate! Desotodav

Hooray for us in the "happy" land of Oz!!! Beer, barbies and sheilas - we have 'em all!!! Desotodav

Nice old motorbike there Jeff. I get to ride dirt bikes (we call them trail bikes here) on occasion as part of my occupation - except ours are late model water-cooled bikes (Honda CRF450 or Suzuki DRZ400). I was actually down at my Spring Maker's place today checking out a couple of his old BSA motorbikes. He has 2 sheds full of old BSA, Norton and Triumph motorbikes, most of which should be in a museum due to their track racing heritage. My daily work ride is a Yamaha FJR1300 at present but we are changing back to the Honda STR1300 soon. The BMW's just didn't cut it for what we got up to!!! The idea for the K&N foam filter for my truck actually came from cleaning and re-oiling the filters on our work trail (dirt) bikes. I will use the same washing solution and the same filter oil as we use on the motorbikes at work when my truck is due for a service. The air filter modification was done in such a way that it is almost invisible to the trained eye. I am very happy so far with the way it performs. Desotodav

I went with a washable (and reusable) foam filter on mine - pictures at post #33 on this link... http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=26823&highlight=bath+filter . Desotodav

I had a Window Fitter come around and install mine. Well, it ended up that we installed the windscreens together! From memory the glass went in from the inside with the aid of a couple of large suction cups. I don't think that the job would be done easily with one person. Desotodav

The stud pattern should be the same, although the cars were generally 15" and the trucks 16". Desotodav

Well done Hank. Obviously persistence was the name of the game! May you enjoy many years of driving the old green truck with the AM tunes sounding! Desotodav

Pictures of horn ring assembly attached as promised Paul. I hope these help you out... Desotodav

I could only come up with the attached photo for you now Paul... I'm off to a car/truck show in the morning but I can remove my horn ring and take some photos for you when I return if you would like. Desotodav

Is it worth getting in touch with these guys from Epay for your bolt Mark?... http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/rpm-motorsports-parts/m.html?_nkw=dodge+truck&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3911.c0.m270.l1313 . I see that they are about 90 miles from you and they are wrecking a truck that looks like it probably should have been restored. Desotodav