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Ivan_B

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Everything posted by Ivan_B

  1. Ivan_B
    Where would you use it? The most HP car I ever drove was maybe 200-250 tops. Unless you are planning to race it, seems completely useless... Don't be one of those older dudes rapidly accelerating from a stop light, in a red car, that's just silly 😅 BTW, do you have a motorcycle? Ever considered getting one? The HP/weight ratio is great on those. Could be a cheaper alternative if you want to feel the power.
  2. Ivan_B
    Just open up Craigslist or FB Marketplace, and look for all kinds of other things you could buy with that money. And then, do not buy anything. That usually helps me to stay calm 🤭
  3. Ivan_B
    The spray can paint came off because it was not gasoline-resistant. The point of sanding is to even-out the painted surface (when using a brush or a roller) and to get rid of the orange/cellulite effect after a spray You obviously need to gradually build-up a thick-enough layer of paint to do a proper sanding and polishing finish.
  4. Ivan_B
    Nothing a little wet-sanding can't fix 🙂 I used their marine paint (for UV additives) for a brush-on sand-down application, a couple of times, with very good results. Painted a motorcycle gas tank, this way, it even withstood gas spills quite well. A spray can stuff (that was there from the PO) came right off...
  5. Ivan_B
    I don't know... The car, kid of, looks great as is And the paint wear gives it some antique character, despite the fact that this is, essentially, a re-paint. I would probably just keep it like that, but its up to you. Probably should not be getting any rust if it was waxed, though... Have you also considered some rustproofing oil, to see how that looks?
  6. Ivan_B
    I bet they weren't arched, neither were the drums checked for proper condition... No one does these anymore... I am planning to do mine, as well, as soon as I manage to defeat my laziness to take the drums off The brakes work okay, as is, but I do have to press it a bit harder than I should in order to stop when rolling downhill.
  7. Ivan_B
    I never buff old paint, just use quick wax for UV protection. In case you can find the OEM-like paint in a regular can, you can just do the good-old paint and sand technique with a regular brush Also, do you have pictures of your hood, so that we know what you are dealing with?
  8. Ivan_B
    I concur with the above, something does not add-up. Try filling the master to specs, wipe it clean with alcohol or carb cleaner, and see what happens around the cap next time you notice the fluid loss.
  9. Ivan_B
    A good-looking P12 in Florida... I did not look at it, but the photos appear very promising https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jacksonville-classic-1941-plymouth/7806240323.html
  10. Ivan_B
    No it is not. Did you already attempt to bleed the brakes using a pressure bleeder, etc? If that does not help, you might want to rebuild your master and carefully inspect all of the slaves for signs of small leaks as well.
  11. Ivan_B
    +1 check the engine with a vacuum gauge. If the gauge does not show anything bad just forget about it. My intake looks very similar
  12. Ivan_B
    Here is my built card. I do not believe there is anything useful on it, though Oh my god, I chose liberal arts thinking that I'll never have to deal with math, again. And now, here we are... 😅 I'll take the cover off, and see what it looks like under there. I might even be able to pull a part number off a pressure plate, too 🤔
  13. Ivan_B
    FL is an all-year-round classic car season 😉 The old clutch is still working. I am just trying to stock-up on some wear and tear parts while they are still available. Good idea, I'll try that.
  14. Ivan_B
    I do have a service card record, but that does not seem to list the clutch size... On a side note - are the flywheels all the same? Can I just get, say, a complete 10" clutch kit and assume that it will fit? 🤔
  15. Ivan_B
    Searched the forum but cannot find a definitive answer. Is there a way to determine the clutch size I have in my 40 Ply sedan without taking it out? The manual lists 9", 10", and 11" clutches... Why would anyone make things complicated like that? 😅
  16. Ivan_B
    Look for some brochures on e-bay. Some of them have the dealer seal on them
  17. Ivan_B
    Here is what appears to be similar to a pair of GE 4030 lamps: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1189388329038065 No aiming tits, something @desoto1939 might appreciate 😉
  18. Ivan_B
    Is your system pressurized? Mine is not, so that is not very leak-prone That rad looks great. If I did not know what the OEM should look like, I wound not have noticed. Also - good fuel filter 😉
  19. Ivan_B
    Please, no 😅 The universal application aluminum rads should work, as long as they fit and provide equivalent heat-exchange ratio. You can also try to find a used one, or install the universal one temporarily, while you fix your OEM. Depending upon the location of the leak, you might be able to easily solder it yourself.
  20. Ivan_B
    No need to mess with the vibrator if it is still vibrating. If you have not been using resistor spark plugs or wires, you will now If you want to listen to the authentic AM, just install a transmitter with an MP3 player.
  21. Ivan_B
    That's a good start. Do you also check the drum with a dial indicator?
  22. Ivan_B
    Instead of measuring the distance from the axle nut to the shoe surface with the tool, do the same with a ruler using the axle, etc., as your base. What's the problem? Just curious: do you always get the fancy tools to block the crank and camshafts when doing a timing belt change on a modern car, instead of just counting teeth on the belt? 🤭 The tools make some things easier, true. But unless you are doing them daily, you can easily work with substitutes as well.
  23. Ivan_B
    If no tool is available, a simple ruler can also be used (as already mentioned)
  24. Ivan_B
    I was under impression that arching is done to fit the shoe to the drum more precisely, not for size reduction.
  25. Ivan_B
    Did you compress the wheel cylinder all the way in? Did you also install the new shoes? I, once, had to grind the metal shoe tip, a bit, to make it fit, because it was an after-market part and a bit too large.
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