Ivan_B

Hm, now I am interested; maybe I should source a cheap original pump to rebuild myself? I like the glass strained at the bottom... 🤔

I suspect that it will still shift without grinding even if there is no oil... At least for a while 😅 Also, the TS is probably aware that there are no synchros on the first and reverse, and he is likely shifting through high/low, as necessary.

Yes. First order of business, remove the clutch cover and ask someone to press the pedal. With the pedal up, the disk should be firmly sandwiched between the plate and flywheel. With the pedal down, you should be able to freely spin the disk with a flat screwdriver. If this is not the case, clutch is either our of adjustment or is otherwise not disengaging. I would also recommend draining your gearbox and checking for "treasure". 🙄

True, but if the TS has the pump properly rebuilt, he can probably fabricate something more appropriate that a simple DIY hack 😅

Too late, I already have it soaking inside the trash can. Heating with an 1000w electric "burner". It take a bit of time to warm-up 🤣 I tried to spray with some solvents, you have to manually work it into the surface for it to work, and there is no good way to get underneath the splash screens... That could probably work at the very beginning, with some patience, if I did not take it to the car wash and smeared that goo all over the place

If the rest of the car is still stock, I would not worry about the carb and points too much. Just carry some obvious spare parts in the trunk with you, and you should be good to go with just the basic service\maintenance. There are plenty of other things that can immobilize you on the road with higher odds... Coolant hoses, brakes, fuel pump, ignition coil, main fuse, etc.

While you are planning to work with your original pump, you can probably still fix and temporarily use this old one. Just take a strip of thick-enough sheet metal, drill a hole in it, put one end under the pump bolt, and shape the other end to push the pin in place. There are various (from simple to not so much) ways to keep the pin in its place

There are all kinds of pumps available on e-bay, etc. I am using some kind of modern pump the car came with. One thing I would recommend is switching the pump bolts to studs. This way, you would not have stuff leaking from the threads when you seal them once and for good Also, you can probably fish that spring out of the pan through the pump opening, right now.

Congratulations, and welcome to the forum. Do you mean the stock Carter B&B? As far as I know, any modern alternatives will require an adapter, which is not necessarily available. Is something wrong with your current ignition and carburetor setup? Why would you consider it to be not very reliable? If it is working, I assume that there are probably plenty of other things to care care of, on a "new" car Also, what kind of bike did you trade? And please post some pictures of the car.

Have you already googled the available drums by size specs (both standard and metric)? Even if the bolt holes do not match, I suspect that if you can find the correct size there should be a way to make it work 🤔

John, you are right, this is my 1940 201". I just posted this to have a general discussion about how well the engine preserved, did not feel appropriate to post this chit-chat topic in a technical forum. I could cold-tank it in gasoline (since wiping alone would not be effective here), but what to do with all the waste afterwards? I was thinking of doing the DIY trashcan hot tank with simple green instead, to be more environmentally friendly

I assume you are referring to the 38? The manual actually shows them inserted my way, page 108, 1942 diagram. Maybe it used to be the other way around on the older models? 🤔 I took the oil pan down to the DIY car-wash, to give it a good rinse, and that did not work-out so well. Instead of rinsing off the goo at the bottom, I pushed it all over the place. Now that I think of it, I recall having a very similar experience the last time I tried to de-grease engine parts at a local car-wash 🙄 So it looks like I'll have to hot tank it, now. I could use a large trash can around the house, but was not planning for this quick repair to get this complicated 🥲

Typical sunk-cost fallacy example, in my opinion, as applied to practical everyday situations. And many people encourage it, for various reasons. Don't give up, they say... It's a great learning experience, they say (yeah, right, of what not to do)... Given the circumstances, this car was likely a mistake in the first place. As mentioned, I had one just like it, many years ago back in college. I was lucky-enough to quickly realize that it was not at all what I expected, and get rid of it until it became a major trouble. I agree. And people would find an excuse for everything: well, at least I had so much fun; I had such a great learning experience; I did it all by myself, and so forth 🙄 Cooper, are you working or still in school? Many retired fellas are really happy to spend their days in the garage with great aspirations, that's all. They are in a different situation in life. Some of those projects go on for decades and are later passed on as an unwanted inheritance, which the relatives have to dispose off. Don't you have other, more important things to do? Keith Did an engine rebuild, on the tube. Ask him how much time and money it took. If you get an old engine, odds are, it will be in similar condition as your current one. This is the last time I am saying this, I promise , but until you got too deep into this mess, get rid of it, save some money, and get another car which you can readily enjoy. Let someone else, who has the proper means, etc., to work with this one.

Bidding ended, no takers 🤣 All these ads make me think: maybe I should list my car, for x3 its actual price, just for fun... I've actually heard about some people doing so - purposefully listing the cars extremely expensive, so that they can brag about it to their friends, etc.

Is this supposed to be a sliding pin, or is this a dual piston caliper setup? Something does not look right, here 🤨

I would suggest a more balanced approach. Trying to save a few $ by attempting to make something out of sticks and dirt might be counterproductive in relation to the original objectives. Time and labor are very valuable. In fact, this is the main production resource\asses for the overwhelming majority of the population. Instead of using it unproductively, attempting to do something one is not capable of, we can always sell it on the market and generate some income to pay others to do things for us that we cannot do ourselves. Back to the original topic: a more modern V8 + transmission + driveshaft + rear end (if available cheap and local) could be a more realistic scenario, assuming that you can safely fit it into the car. Although, I still would not recommend it.

+1; I would not consider swapping one old engine with a different but also old engine, given the overall circumstances of this project. One of those working OEM engines for sale on the forum might still be available.

I am doing some maintenance, and thought I'd share some good things. Removed the oil pan, today, for cleaning and gasket replacement. The engine insides look great, almost no sludge; some sediment at the bottom of the pan but not too much. The pan has definitely been down before. One of the screws was missing the split washer, and one of the flywheel studs is not sitting correctly. Why would anyone do something like that? The studs have a flat spot for a reason... 🙄 Also, the pan gasket is rubber (not original) while the valve covers still had the fossilized cork. I was a bit concerned about the pan not clearing the steering rod, but it did.

Isn't the one available for loan from a local parts store going to work? The easiest fist would be a direct OEM replacement, for sure

Seriously? For a 50-s engine with no repairs - it is probably done. Very sorry to hear that. I am just curious, how much did you pay for this car, $2-3k?

What kind of prep work was done on those parts, before painting?

Since TS ordered another one, let's try to crush this one in a press to see if anything comes out

Ok, still no leaks, I assume?

I was also under impression that softer metals are usually used for such applications where there is not much lubrication and sliding friction involved. How's steel expected to work? Wouldn't it either eat away the input shaft of the crankshaft side? 🤔

Yep, I figured that with the expense of "small production" labor, getting a new/re-manufactured one would cost very comparatively I am still using the stock ones, with 50k on them. Hopefully, these will last a while.