D35 Torpedo
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Everything posted by D35 Torpedo
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Definitely an interesting one.
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Ok I finally figured it out. I thought it may have been dodge. Turns out to be c30 control arms, drop spindles and crossmember.
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Ill get some better pics tomorrow.
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We have an International panel wagon in the shop with a Cummins. I'm trying to ID the front suspension and steering. I'm fairly certain the rack n pinion is 03-06 Ram 1500. Crossmember, control arms and knuckles are an unknown, although the knuckles look to have old ford style caliper attachment. Rotors honestly look like trailer parts. Any ideas?
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I was lucky enough to find a clock from an awesome guy on this forum. It had gears out of place and a broken wire. I was able to fix the mechanicals and repair the coil wire. Has worked flawlessly since. But they don't hold perfect time forever. Things like temperature affect the spring and what not. Still, it's plenty reliable and more handy that a phone when driving to work on the morning.
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If you were on the west coast id give you one.
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I wanted to tackle my radio but i didnt recognize the caps, this makes sense. I have the same radio as yours, 805 if i remember correctly. Ive read that people will open up the vibrator to clean and file the points, is this necessary? Can you show my how you wired the aux cord? I found a replacement radio that was removed from a car in the 60s as my original was pretty ugly inside, someone was in it before me. Thanks for posting your knowledge, gives me confidence as i am not experienced with radios and don't want to pop mine.
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Ive taken many switches apart. They are crimped together so be prepared to carefully pry back the folded parts. Then expect it to be spring loaded. Contacts will probably fall out also. Fun stuff. Fluid film works good to lube them up.
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Leaks will allow foreign material in as well.
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Is your gauge plumbed into the correct port?
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I got mine from napa. Worked good.
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I bet the main issue is worn out piston rings. Pull the head, pistons and rods, shove a bunch of rags on top of the crank at the bottom of the bores and give it a hone. Clean it well. Put the pistons and rods back in with fresh bearings. Crank bears can be done one at a time by rolling them out and back in. Loosening all the main caps will help with that. But I do agree, to do it "right" you should pull the engine. Quick and dirty is the method I described, and it works for what you want.
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I would thread lock them in with medium grade locktite or equivalent. They will stay in place, seal the hole and still come out, a little heat helps as well.
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1946 Dodge Custom - Cylinder head removal
D35 Torpedo replied to Vespanation's topic in P15-D24 Forum
You could put a long pipe nipple in the cylinder 6 plug or heater outlet. Grab the thermostat neck at the front. Threaded holes on the side can also be used. Maybe thread a bolt in and use it in conjunction with a bar to pry up on the head, leaver off the bell housing or something. -
Regular steel tube is fine. Even just a premade brake line will work fine as long as the brass fittigs are in place. Just bend it to fit.
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No, i got two longer bolts and went through the top
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I think i used the head bolts to chain to. I remember being concerned about using bolt holes in the head, opting to lift from the block. You get the size chain that fits your bolts.
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That doesnt look original either..should have a bellows. Anyways, I got my replacement at Napa. I kept the box for future reference. I'll be home tomorrow if you still need it. Edit, Same as Young Eds in the thread Sam posted.
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One other to mention, the condition of your rear engine mounts may affect the likely hood of using a ratchet.
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Yes I do. It's tight, but works fine. The first time or two, I did it with a wrench.
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It takes me like 35-45 mins to pull the trans. Really easy, no need to pull the floor pan. That particular bolt can be reached with a wrench, but I use a 3/8ths socket on a long extension.
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I think you're over thinking it. The road draft tube is to get rid of crank case gases. The later engines had a pcv in place of the road draft. It's the perfect place for such a device.
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I think that style is for a higher emissions standard. Basically for when the engine is shut off after running. Instead of emissions wafting out the breather, they go into the aircleaner and are trapped for when the engine is refired.
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This is what I don't understand. If you're pulling vacuum on the bottom end, there needs to be a place for fresh air to come in. Every classic engine I've plumbed has had a pcv and a breather. Usually I'm building V8s, but the same applies.
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I thought My engine was overheating, evnen made a sweet fan shroud. Turned out the original gauge was faulty. Now, you said you checked it with a temp gun. Did you actually pull the cap and point it at the coolant inside? Your issue could be poor data. Unless something was done wrong in the rebuild.
