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deathbound

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Everything posted by deathbound

  1. Click on "Members Map" from the drop down menu in "Members" @the top of the page. I just tried it & got an error message.
  2. Steve, welcome to the site.......your '38 looks great. I've had my '38 Plymouth Coupe for about 4-1/2 years, so if you have any questions, let me know. Good luck on yours. Derek
  3. Another option.....YnZ's in So Cal. Here's a link....page 2 has 1940 Dodge trucks: http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/pdfs/Dodge.pdf Their website: http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/
  4. This one was for sale about a year ago....I think it was a '41.....correct me if I'm wrong.
  5. Sits nice.....the shock relocation bracket looks like 1 from a HAMB tech thread a while back. Watch your scrub line in the rear.
  6. I'm guessing this is the place.....http://www.coilsprings.com/. Lumpy will confirm.
  7. I know these pressure bleeders make it a 1 person job, but I could get my 9 y.o. son to do it which involves him & gets him interested in cars......."so easy, a caveman could do it". It isn't rocket science to pump, hold, release....takes about 10-15 minutes max.
  8. I'm in Long Beach....about 45 minutes from Pomona & about 10-15 minutes from the LA/Long Beach Ports. If there's anything I can do, let me know.
  9. Looks great, nice rake.
  10. Welcome.....where in California did you find that truck? Looks nice. On a side note, my mom was born in Rottweil in 1939, came over to the states in 1954. I've never been to Germany, but hope to 1 day. Good luck with the axle search/repair. Derek
  11. Hank, I wasn't referring to the slot/woodruff key. I have a '38 Plymouth Coupe.....the drums have a locating pin (4 rivets & 1 locating pin-which doubles as a rivet that holds the drum to the hub), which makes installing the wheel easier while threading the lug bolts in the hub. Not sure if the trucks have the same locating pin on the hub/drum assembly. My post was in response to Jeff's post about a mod to make the rear drums removable without the use of a puller. Also, from what i understand, you are not suppose to use ANY kind of lube or anti-sieze on a tapered axle when re-installing your drums.....if that's what you were getting at.
  12. Grind off the rivet heads & remove the rivets holding the drum to the hub. Press properly sized studs in from the backside of the hub. This eliminates the locating pin, but the studs take care of that.
  13. I know exactly what you're referring to, even though others don't. Now, back ON topic.....nice car Lakermatt.
  14. They look like the Firestone Deluxe Champion bias ply wide white tires.......they look identical to what I have (6.00-16 on stock wheels).
  15. Don, you ask this question every time someone mentions lowering their car. It is a matter of preference & I think the poster of the quote you quoted meant in "his" opinion.....it NEEDED to be lowered for a better looking stance. Having a lowered car like these Plymouth's, Dodge's, etc is obviously not for road racing, but for looks/style......similar to why you chose to have your car painted Baby Blue (or kept is this color).....or why you chose chrome steelies when there was nothing wrong with the factory color of the car or original wheels.
  16. Hate them with a passion!
  17. Very nice.....THANKS.
  18. Looks good.....how about a full side shot. Do those caps mount between the wheel & lugs?
  19. So, you'd be opposed to a HEMI?
  20. Conformity........stock or custom? There are more differences in a custom car than a stock or "restored" car.
  21. No, just making an observation from the diagram....regarding an insulator on the carb. Looks like it HAS to be installed for it to work properly.
  22. In this diagram, it looks like there is an insulator (14-33-5) between the 2 bodies.
  23. I think Jeff is referring to CH Topping (http://www.chtopping.com/), near PCH & Magnolia. I've used them a few times, great service. They can arc your shoes (or supply new ones) to your drums, which should be turned for a true surface. I'm in Long Beach & have an Ammco 1750 if you want to borrow it. Derek
  24. Meant the tires......will definitely look better on stock steel wheels.
  25. Good looking truck. If you need the puller for the rear drums &/or the Ammco 1750 brake tool, let me know, I'm in Long Beach. If you need brake work done, I've had CH Topping in Long Beach do some work for me....highly recommend them & they're familiar with the older cars/trucks (ask for Vince).
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