martybose
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Everything posted by martybose
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Your photo is a classic for what happens when you drive with the wheel nuts loose and the wheel beats up the studs. You could probably run a die down the threads, put the wheel and lugnuts on, torque them down properly and drive off into the sunset ...... Marty
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You're a braver man than I am if you would install used lifters on a new cam; my experience is that such a move usually results in highly worn cam lobes. Marty
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I ran my car for years without a thermostat; I finally put one back in just so that it would warm up faster. Marty
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temperature behaviour/ reading, cranbrook 218 engine
martybose replied to bluefoxamazone's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Probably 10 years ago I was wondering why my engine always ran hotter than I thought it should. So I took the entire mechanical gauge out of the car and set up a controlled experiment with a pot on the stove and a couple of mercury thermometers. I found out quickly that my gauge read 30 degrees hotter than the actual water temp. It took about 3 hours to figure out how to bend the linkage in the gauge so that it read within a couple of degrees from 120 to 230. The car ran in a much more appropriate temp range after that! Marty -
Doug, whenever you pull the plugs out you will find the washers between the plug washer and the head; they usually come out with the plug. They are reusable, just need to be moved to the new plug before it is torqued down just like a normal plug. I bought them online (Jeg's, if I remember right). Marty
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I purchased a set of indexing washers for the sparkplugs. They are normally used by racers so that they can point the electrode in a specific direction for best power, but I just wanted to raise the sparkplug up a little so that I could run a larger spark gap. Marty
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The brass angle fitting that you can see on the front and back carbs looks like an externally-adjustable main jet; I had a similar setup during my disastrous experiment with Stromberg 97 carbs. It is interesting that it appears that the center carb is a dummy! Marty
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Maybe a 42 is different than a 47, because on my 47 you could completely remove the pedal shaft from the master cylinder. Marty
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When I first built my 230 I put a new set of silver springs in it. After the third time a spring broke I took them all out and replaced them with a set of uncoated ones. It turned out that the silver ones were plated, which had an unfortunate side effect of making them more brittle. The unplated ones have had several thousand miles of uneventful use. Marty
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Advice needed lowering the front suspension p15 coupe 1948
martybose replied to Cudan's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I would seriously advise against trying to use the OEM drum brakes with Fatman dropped spindles. I tried it, and found that the turning radius went up to about 100 feet; you literally could not turn a corner with it. As a temporary message we took a grinder to the backing plates so that there was some turning ability, but it was way less than stock. I was a much happier camper when I installed front disk brakes later. Marty -
I was used to upgraded 4 wheel disk brakes on my Honda, so the 47 Plymouth was downright scary the first time I hammered the brakes on the freeway, even though all of the parts were fresh and the shoes had been set with the proper gauge. The situation was much improved when I switched the front brakes to the ECI disk brakes and the dual master cylinder, but nowhere near as good as the Honda. So I always left a lot of extra space to have enough room to stop in. Marty
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I tried this, and wound up with almost no steering at all. I actually took a grinder to the backing plates and cut slots in them to get some steering angle back, although not as much as stock. I ran the car that way for years until I finally wanted front disks to be able to stop better. I still have the cut backing plates if you would like to try them. Marty
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The biggest advantage to an Edgy head would be the fact that it is designed for a modern sparkplug. My Edmunds takes a 1/2" sparkplug. Autolite only listed two of these, and the first set I tried was an extended reach plug; turning the motor over caused the valves to promptly close the point gap to zero. The other plug is a standard reach, but I can't gap them over .030" or the valves start banging on them too. Marty
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Napa auto parts is the easiest place to get this oil. Marty
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Don't forget that you need a different flywheel for the 230 crank! Marty
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If it is the same as a 23 inch Edmunds, it will be a 1/2" reach plug, which can be a little hard to find. Marty
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I've always been told that the first diagram showing everything perfectly in line should never be done, as the lack of angular motion on the U-joints will kill the needle bearings, because the lack of motion means they don't stay lubricated. The best setup was the second diagram; it would have no vibration, but has enough angular movement to lubricate the needle bearings. Marty
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True, as long as you are aware of the two different setups for the thermostat housings and waterpump bypasses, and use all of the appropriate parts. Marty
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Since it was in a Desoto, I wonder if is going to turn out to be a 25" motor, which would be a little bit of work to fit in a 33. Marty
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When I bought a 230 to build, it was a worn out 0.060" motor. We ultrasounded the cylinders, found they were centered with plenty of meat, so we wound up finding a Toyota metric ringset that came out at 0.072" over, then had a custom set of Venolia forged pistons made to use them. Bored and honed with a honing plate, been running fine ever since. Marty
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A very nice little motor, but it won't be cheap! Marty
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When I had my steering box rebuilt I jacked the front of the car way up, took off the steering wheel, loosened the clamp at the bottom, took off the steering arm, took out the three bolts mounting the steering box to the frame, and took the steering box with the shaft out of the bottom of the car. You can't remove the shaft from the steering box, which made for a very interesting looking package when I shipped it out. I never had to touch the shifter linkage at all. Marty
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Don, sorry to hear about your issues. I'm so glad that I had the opportunity to meet you in person when you were working in San Francisco. I too am starting to feel my age, although without the complications that you've experienced. Look forward to hearing from you occasionally. Marty
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+1 on Don's comment. Sounds like you have front shocks that are too long, and bottom out when you hit a bump. I used a Fatman front shock kit, and had the same problem; Since the mount was made from sheet steel, we just cut them and added 2 inches to the top shock location, and it worked fine. Marty
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Flatheads in general are notorious for pinging due to poor combustion chamber design. When we built my motor my mechanic said to make it 9 to 1 and expect to run high octane gas. We set the initial timing by running the car up a local hill at about 2000 RPM, then added timing until it started to ping, then backed it off a little. Marty
