martybose
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Everything posted by martybose
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I've got to agree with James on the fuel recommendation. When we built my motor it came out almost 9 to 1 with the aluminum head, and my machinist said the L-head motors are prone to knocking anyway, so he told me to run 91 octane (the best you can get in California). Even so I could occasionally hear pinging under full throttle. Marty
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Also be aware that a Mopar R10 is a very different animal than any other R10. Most of the internals interchange, but the Mopar R10 uses a unique electric shift mechanism. The guy that rebuilt mine did a great job with gears and whatever, but left a itty bitty little plunger out that eliminated any possibility of actually shifting until another member of this forum clued me in and sent a photo of the missing part. You've been warned! Marty
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It works better if it is spelled right. http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/ I used one of his 6V alternators way back when I first started playing with my Plymouth. Marty
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I haven't got my manuals handy, but it definitely takes an oil as opposed to a grease. Marty
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Have you tried to take apart the oil pressure regulator? It is far more likely that it is stuck due to old oil shellac forming than it is to actually need a different spring. You should be able to unscrew it at the left side center of the block. Marty
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When I had my battery cables made I specified a 00 lug that went to a starter mounting bolt, and a pair of size 2 jumpers that went to a bolt on the frame and another bolt on the body. Guaranteed to have ground paths! Marty
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Almost all of the available kits use the stock hub, I think that ECI is the only one that replaces the hub with a new aluminum one. Marty
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Amusing to see this thread come back to life 12 years after I started it. I'm not going to try to justify it, but I eventually backed the initial timing down to about 4 degrees with the vacuum connection to manifold vacuum. It was that way for several years with no issues. Marty
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When mine threw a blade it sliced through both the passenger side fender and the hood. I was amazed at how much damage it caused. Marty
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I installed an ECI front disk kit in my 47. I was a little disappointed that I had to do some additional work on the caliper adapter bracket to clear an interference issue, and I was surprised that installing it widened the front track enough that it was worth my while to try a different offset front wheel. But overall it was a nicely designed kit that substantially improved braking force. Marty
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It took a while, but I found the GPS system that drives a mechanical speedometer. It probably isn't cheap (no price listed), but it certainly solves this problem. It's called the SPEEDBOX, it's sold by Speedhut on their website http://www.speedhut.com Marty
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They're usually advertised in the hotrod magazines, like Car Craft or Popular Hotrodding. Unfortunately I just threw out all of last months issues, so I can't give you a direct reference. Marty
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You can get a GPS speedometer setup that drives the OEM gauge ........ Marty
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I'd start with putting a GPS app on your smart phone, getting the car up to a GPS-indicated 60 MPH, and note what the speedo is displaying. THEN go to a speedo shop, give them the info, and have them fix it. They can easily determine whether a speedometer gear would fix it or whether a gearbox for the speedo cable is needed. Marty
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What is the limiting factor on mopar flathead rpm?
martybose replied to Ajgkirkwood's topic in P15-D24 Forum
All of the above, and probably more. I suspect crankshaft and block strength would keep you from going too far with supercharging them. Marty -
A way different setup with a top of the line linkage on a set of Carter-Webers on my old car. Used all pillow block bearings and stainless shafts and fittings, cost way to much (over $400) but was fun to build. Marty
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From my experience, none. We actually built a fixture so that we could shorten the upper arm to get it back to zero camber. Marty
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I'm concerned with the statement that there is no reverse if the OD cable is pulled. This shouldn't be possible, as the OD transmission has an extended shaft on the reverse shaft so that the act of putting the transmission in reverse will force the OD unit to disengage so that it locks up to enable the car to move backwards instead of spinning the overrunning clutch uselessly. This sounds like there is a fundamental problem with the transmission/overdrive mechanical interface. Marty
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You and me both, kiddo. Marty
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Unfortunately, none of your links seem to work! Marty
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Exciting week with the Montana Dodge Boys!
martybose replied to austinsailor's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I went up maybe 40 or 45 years ago, but I still remember the experience well. It's a whole different experience than drag racing or even road racing. Our car broke a rocker arm on one run. The driver brings it back, and my buddy and I dive in take off the valve cover and start to work on it, then we look around and everyone is gone! We said the equivalent of "What the hell?", and were told that we couldn't run again till late tomorrow, so chill out and we'll work on it after lunch! A totally different mind set. Marty -
Look at the photo of the engine; the hot lead to the starter looks like about the same size as the spark plug wire. Think how much better it would work if it was a 00 cable! Marty
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If nothing else, it would probably idle smoother with all of the intake pipes plumbed together. Marty
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While I appreciate the ingenuity, I don't see the point of this setup. If the blower motor actually pushes more air into the filter than the engine is using, the excess will merely go through the filter element in the opposite (from normal) direction. Marty PS. Not to mention that the pleated filter is probably a much better filter element than any small rectangular flat filter.
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I'm with JBNeal on this one. I had a custom 00 ground cable made that had the primary connection to a starter bolt, but also had two 1 gauge jumpers; one went to the body, the other went to the frame. No floating grounds on this car! Marty
