p15-1948

Dud, the top screw is the clamp holding the linkage to the carb. Haven't worked on it the last week or so, but yesterday just got a click click when I went to start it. Going to check it step by step (thanks Keith). Voltmeter says the battery is strong, cable is good from the battery to starter solenoid (same voltage as battery). Now a question. the cable from the solenoid to the starter...it should show voltage with the key in the on position? Should there be a difference in voltage when the key goes to the start position? The solenoid does click when the key is in the start position.

Yes, the engine is warm and the choke blade is wide open. I'll check the linkage length, I had checked previously and the linkage is not is a bind anywhere.

Hi, bought a 49 P18 late last winter and have lightly driven it this summer. A lot of around town; only one out of town thirty minutes each way. Now I'm getting about looking more closely at it. 1. It idles fast. I'm attaching a photo of the carb, I think the lower screw is the idle adjustment. I can't get it to move one way or the other. I've sprayed the screw with Krolloil and letting it soak over night. Car starts REALLY easy, but idles at about 1100rpm. 2. Some of the grease zerks do not want to take grease. Can I take them out and clean them. or just replace them? Non-trouble items every oil pan bolt was loose to some extent. It was supposed to just had the gasket replaced. Hoping the oil leak slows down a little, What looks like a new/rebuilt fuel/vacuum pump one bolt was a little loose, the other I could see two or three threads showing. Air cleaner looks like it hasn't been serviced in a long time. Story is the car has just turned 34,000 while I've had it and had never left the little town in Southern Kansas. We're the third family to own it. The previous owner had it for ten years and put 300 miles on it. The very bottom long thin screw is what I think is the idle adjustment, next to the brass fitting. Not sure what the larger screw is above it on the linkage. Thanks

Guess I've already upgraded, have M&P45

I like this post, I too am just starting to figure out what I need to have in the 49.

Welcome from just up the road in Ottawa, Kansas. That's one nice Plymouth!!!

I hope this isn't the going price. If so, I may be priced out of the market.

the unit is on the way, thanks again fellas!

Thank you guys! This is the friendliest forum for guys just learning about flat head six engines

Wondering if anyone has one of these, Snap-on MT816B. Looking at one online and it has three connections rather than two like my old (non-working) Sears unit. I'm going to guess it hooks to 1. pos side of battery, 2. neg side of battery, and 3. hot side of the coil. Can anyone one confirm, haven't been able to find any instructions online for this particular model. Thanks

Have you had your steering box rebuilt by RedHeads?

I had a Vintage Air Gen IV in my 48 Plymouth business coupe (car converted to 12 volt). Just installed a Vintage Air unit in my Marlin that uses my existing controls to run the ac, heat, and defrost.

I sold this car three or four years ago after owning it for just over 20 years. The color is Milano red, a Honda two stage color. I'm old, but I think I spent a grand on the paint almost 25 years ago. A friend and I did the bodywork and prep, it was a total, down to nuts and bolts job. Believe me, any paint job the spraying is the easy part. The bodywork sanding, working gaps, keeping every surface clean before spraying; then the sanding and buffing after spraying is where the real work is. Thinking back now, the cost of beer, for myself and all the friends who helped on the rebuild, may have been the single highest cost of the rebuild.

On Our 48 we had to modify the inner fenders for the 318, but we used some rubber like material from a pickup inner fenders. Sorry, do not remember the make or year of the donor truck. The Nova front track was a little too wide also. We narrowed it 3/4 of an inch and it put the tires inside the fenders nicely.

Can't remember what the front frame horns looked like, but I used a 1973 Olds Omega front end on my 48. Omega was the same as the Chevy Nova.

It was pretty common in the day (50/60/70's) to move up one size when putting new tires on the car. General consensus was the larger tire gave a better ride. Worked Firestone retail in the sixties before moving to one of Goodyear's distribution centers.

Keith, is the Dyke's book like Motor manual where you look for a year range to cover your car, or is general knowledge book? Thanks

Looks like a nicely optioned car, visor, heater, radio, clock...good luck with it.

In my youth I took the ridge out of Ford Falcon 144. When I got to the machine shop I was shown that I would not have needed to have the block bored if I had taken it easy on cutting the ridge. Live and learn.

Looks like this modification will require a change to 12 volts? Thanks

By serial number you're referring to the tag on the driver side door post? Thanks

I too use a paint stick. You're limited as the car is already painted. On my P15 BC in some spots we had to add metal and some we had to use a grinder to get perfect, or more likely near perfect gaps. Can't do that once it's painted. The good thing, black cars generally hide little errors in gaps better than other colors. Look for black 46/48 Ford hoods for paint color aiding gap alignment.

Thank you, makes sense as that is the same number used on the car I'm looking at in SE Iowa. I know each state has it's own system just wasn't sure what Iowa used. Had a title issue with an out of state P15 once I'd I'd like to avoid that if possible. Thanks again!

Follow up question. Anyone on here from Iowa? Would like to know if Iowa uses the engine number or body number as the VIN number? The P17 I'm looking at has the body number (driver side plate on the door). I've only been around Kansas titles and, at least for P15's, use the engine number. Thanks

Thank you!!