plymouthcranbrook

As I mentioned in a recent post I have had issues with mine where after each moderate drive I am able to retighten all my bolts about a 1/4 turn. I did not use thread sealer and maybe I should have.

If moves freely and seems to have a resistance to moving it by hand. 1968 was the last year I fooled with flatheads before getting this one and I really don't remember ever even having a problem like this. How much resistance should it feel like. Lots, or little or?

so maybe you can help me with a moderate problem with my 1952 Cranbrook. I had mentioned earlier that I was changing my intake /exhaust manifold due to a vacuum leak bad enough that the car would not idle anymore. I changed the gasket(all but the exhaust/intake one) and the problem seemed to be much better. However now the car is what I will call cold blooded to lack a better term. For the first 5 or 6 miles the car seems to be running lean. By that I mean stumbling and sputtering under moderate acceleration. After that the car begins running quite well. So far I have adjusted the carb(which was rebuilt about 300 miles ago). I watched the choke open and although it appears to be a little slow on starting to opening it does go slowly and does open all the way. Plugs are nicely tan in color. Points are at 20 thousand and plugs at 35 thousand. Cap and rotor are almost new as is the coil and condenser. Wires and plugs new as well. I did add a fuel filter to the line between the pump and carb. And although this may or may not be connected, I noticed that after each moderate drive(40-50 miles) I find that I can tighten the manifold nuts about a 1/4 turn each and also the carb to manifold nuts also seem to work loose( I did not locktight them, should I have?). They do have lock washers. I did not use any sealer on the manifold to block gasket as I have never needed to to so before. I was not able to tighten the back lower exhaust manifold nut or the lower center one on the intake as I can only access them from below. I will be tightening them when I jack it up to change oil later this week. I am wondering if anyone else has had these nuts work loose like this. I had planned to retighten them when I put the car away for winter next week anyway. I do plan to check the timing and vacuum later this week as well. Although because the car runs so well after a long warm up I would be surprised to find anything wrong there. So as always any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I don't remember any trouble removing my 52 Plymouth pan several years ago. Try prying gently between the pan and the block. It may be just the gasket stuck

Many years ago I had a 1961 Rambler Ambassador that needed a new right outer tie rod. None available anywhere. It was about a foot long. A local welder cut the head off a left one which was available and slowly welded the long shaft to the new head. Did not damage the rubber or even smoke the grease. I don't know if you could do that but it worked for me.

I miss more cars in my life that I can count. Amazing how time fades the late nights working on them in the cold to get to work the next day. I too had many furre'n cars. 2 Sunbeam Alpines(a 64 and a 66), a TR-3, a TR-4A, a 1969 Fiat 124 Sport Coupe. a 1972 Fiat 128 and last but not least- a 1969 MCG-GT. Everyone of them a continual project. We won't discuss the endless number of Plymouths, Corvairs, etc that I also want back.

No, not yet We have not reached that stage as of yet.

Here is the thread link to the AACA General Discussion for this thread. Hopefully it will work. http://forums.aaca.org/f169/new-member-barn-full-parts-380583.html The person starting the link id very good at answering my PMs and e-mails so I believe it is on the up and up

My 52 Plymouth has 215's and when I do touch 65 or 70 it seems very busy. I usually cruise at 50 or 55. I do not have overdrive.

I had trouble with my 52 with the vent plugging up. After I got it opened I noticed that when I pushed the brake pedal and then released it there was a spurt of fluid out of the small hole. if you are getting that or maybe bubbles, then I expect the hole is open. When I did my brake job I did not have access to the special tool and just spent a lot of time adjusting the wheels. Although my pedal is lower that I wish, the pedal is hard and doesn't sink to the floor. I did have a lot of trouble bleeding the left front wheel, especially the lower cylinder. Now the brakes work quite well except for the slightly lower pedal.

Thanks very much Bob, I forwarded the information to the seller. I really appreciate you taking the time to do this.

A member on the AACA forum has posted information about a large quantity of parts for several different cars he has inherited. I have inquired about a pair of rear fender trims for my 1952 Cranbrook 4-door but need to know the exact length and width of the parts so he can see what he has. The ones that came with my car are pretty well useless even for measurements. I was wondering if anyone would be willing to measure the trim on their car and post it so I can pass it on. I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.

Shoot, mine was Carp. What are you guys whining about?

Be aware that there are many different lengths for these cars and they do not always interchange. Try to find one that is listed for your car. Nice to see that shel ny posted the correct length for you.

Whoda thunk that there would be enough WWII era vehicles left close enough to one place to make it possible to have a parade past one point lasting 1/2 an hour. Great post.

I have never seen that book before. I have several others of varying topics but really like that one. Thanks much.

Works ok for me as well.

I have to say I think it looks great as a van. Very different.

Thanks all. I don't plan to disassemble the manifolds as there isn't any exhaust leak that I can locate. Just intake issues.

In a related but personal question I am removing my intake and exhaust on my 52 Cranbrook due to a failure to idle. Holding the choke down cures the trouble and ignition seems to be still correct. I noticed that some of the nuts(but not all) were cone shaped on one end with slits cut in the. I assume that they go cone end into the washers that were on the exhaust manifold bolts. Some were cone end in and some out when taking them off. Should all the bolts be like this or is it just the exhaust ones? I checked the manual and it said little about the procedure at all. Any information greatly appreciated. I expect that my driving the car more this year than ever might have been a party to this problem(Plus the short run to 70 MPH for a couple of miles)

My 52 had number one pointed toward 5 o'clock for a long time. When I had the pan off I changed it to match what it should be. Still ran the same.

I have metal stems. They hit them and stop

Fun to see your car in the movies. If even only for a moment. I know. Enjoy the fame!!!

I guess that explains why I only see car ads

Thank you