plymouthcranbrook

I had bought a couple of front bumper guards for my 52 Plymouth around 2007 or so. They looked ok but a bit surface rusted and although not damaged rather sad looking. I looked into various options and after pricing some I just went ahead and removed all the surface rust. Then I primed them and just sprayed chrome paint on them. They came out acceptable to me and look good to this day probably 15 years later.

When I read threads like this one on chrome plating costs I thank that person back in the distant past who replaced almost all the chrome on my 52 Cranbrook with what appears to have been NOS items. The windshield divider was the only part that looked a bit sketchy with pits. And I found a replacement that had been rechromed on E-Bay back before it went to pot. In the 22 years I have owned the car the finish hasn’t diminished a bit. The front bumper guards I bought at Iola 15 years ago weren’t so hot but chrome spray paint looks ok and has held up for quite a while now.

You don’t have to have the car running to check. With it off just open the throttle quickly while looking down the carb. You should see a good short stream of fuel each time you do that until the bowl is empty. What has been suggested is good and if it runs well you might be over thinking the issue. The main purpose of the accelerator pump is to stop flat spots when the throttle is opened. Short term problem, short term cure.

I have driven by The Last Detail shop many times but knew it would not be a good idea to stop. Flat wallet syndrome. Nice to see the Chrysler pics. Airflows are one of the few preWWII cars I really like.

This is one of several articles I found on oil consumption. I kind of remember it being blue smoke on acceleration is rings and a puff on deceleration being valve guides. How did the plugs look? I have never seen that much oil on a piston top that wasn’t burned. I don’t see how you aren’t getting a drop on the stick. https://www.theenginebuilders.com/new-blog/2020/1/24/diagnosing-oil-consumption-issues

Another year older and deeper in debt, St Peter don’t you call me cause I cain’t go, I owe my soul to the Company store. Do do do do doodly do 😁. Best to you all anyway.

You might try after getting the correct measurements for the pieces you need then try contacting smaller suppliers who might have a stash of various trim parts they don’t really know what they are for and see if they have anything close. I located a guy who had inherited an enormous supply of parts for all kinds of vehicles who found me two rear spears that although they might not be Plymouth specific were close enough to suit me. And although I don’t remember his name there might be some out there. And I found mounting brackets at Fat Fender parts.

The first in dash(sorta) clock. Be a great addition to any early 30’s and before vehicle. A businessman's coupe or a truck come to mind.

Your work is very impressive. I repaired one of the replacement spears that a guy gave me but it was nowhere near as bad as yours was. I used a variety of hammers and pointed objects to do it. Resting on a bed of rags and foam. Great work.

Beautiful car. Welcome to the forum. Tod Fitch has a list he made up on his website. Look up Plymouth the first decade and it will pop up. The IPad will not let me copy the address to paste it here but it is easy to find. Another good suppler is Vintage Power Wagons for items that are shared between truck and cars. A few salvage yards like French Lake Auto Parts and Moores on South Dakota also are Mopar centric.

I hope everyone has had a great holiday so far and it just gets better from here on out.

ECI’s time and main purpose is getting you to buy their products. It is never a waste of time for a honest company to talk to a potential customer.

Drip rail?

Either those are giant wheels or the smallest rotors I have seen in a long time. What kind of stopping distance does it have?

He relocated shortly after posting that.