Dodgeb4ya

Nile green is not a metallic for 1951.

Another easier test for complete clutch disengagement is by leaving the trans in gear /clutch pedal pushed in fully and grabbing the trans rear output splined driveshaft yoke on rear of trans or E-brake drum and you should be able to turn it by hand -the effort to turn the trans from output end requires some effort depending on what gear it`s in. You definately should be able to turn it, you might hear the clutch disc slightly "whisk" the flywheel/clutch plate but very slightly if at all. All this just to see if the clutch releases! Bob

Forgot to mention if it is light blue it`s called Wedgewood blue . It`s hard to tell from the pictures! Bob

If it is a green color on your car, your color appears to be the Nile Green color. It is a light to medium green and I cannot see any metallic in it. The other green color offered in 1951 is the much darker Sherwood green. This is info out of the 1951 Plymouth upholstry and paint book. Bob

Don`t know if you belong to the 1946-8 Postwar Chrysler group... Here it is...http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/46-48Chryslers. On this site a member "Senzabenza" is selling a Chrysler 6 cyl.Business coupe/and a NYclub coupe and is also selling parts too! Bob

Here is a picture of this big over center spring. It is shown being adjusted with the special miller adjusting tool. The spring should be adjusted correctly so that the clutch pedal pressure feels correct and also returns fully to the top released position.

Look at this 1953 "Savoy Dog" wagon. In Arlington Wa. on a farm few years back!

Quite a few Napa stores carry Por15, or can order it. Swap meets have vendors also.

Here are the 2 most likely socket sizes I tried on the following motors: 1952 D42 Dodge 230 engine @ 1-11/16". 1953 P24 Plymouth 230@ 1-13/16". The other 1952 plymouth P23 engine has the hand crank pulley nut @ 1-13/16". If your engine is really stuck, soak the pistons and remove the lower bell housing pan and carefully use a large screwdriver on the flywheel teeth to turn the flywheel. This applies much more turning leverage on a stuck engine. Bob

That horn circuit diagram is out of the 218 page "Auto-Lite maintenance and operation manual". Bob

Here is a better closeup of the 230 flathead 6 engine storage dollie. Made for tight space storage of all my old rebuildable 6cyl/8 inline engines. Dollies are made very compact to save shop space. Bob

Here is a pic of a couple engine dollies- a 230 on one and a chrysler 8 on the other. I welded em up out of 3" channel. Bob

Your truck has a single diaphram frame mount "Midland" brake booster. The air intake for it is through the round Breather filter under the seat below the drivers side of the seat. You can unscrew it to clean it. All of the 1-1/2 and up tonnage Dodge trucks have this breather used on hydraulic brake systems W/ the frame mount boosters. Bob

One issue with 100,000 mile plug change intervals is the possibility of the plugs not being able to be removed because of carbon build up on the end of the plug. Real common problem on the newer Ford V-8`s. Other cars too. The heads have to be sometimes removed for repair if the special tool set won`t work. The plugs can actually break off. This is a expensive-VERY expensive repair! 4 cyl.Mazda`s/Rangers also are sometimes hard to get old plugs out of the heads.

I pull the alternator to do the 3.3/3.8 rear pass plug if it was a Chrysler/Dodge minivan.

The (4) ends of the oil pan side rail gaskets should be positioned on top of the curved shape oil pan end gaskets that poke up 3/8" above the pan flange surface-then the gasket bolt holes line up. I push in 2 very small pins at each gasket corner to help hold the gaskets tightly together while the pan is bolted up to the block. The pins stay in place permanently. I install 4- 2" long studs at the oil pan corner bolt holes to help guide and hold the gaskets in place too. You can also use thin sewing needle thread to hold the pan gaskets in place along the side rails of the pan. Guide studs are best to use. Use silicone sealer at the corner end junctions of the pan rail side to end gaskets and sealer on pan to gasket- pan side only. Leave block side dry. Helps keep the gasket from squishing-sliding out of position! Bob

Got it at a local swap meet for $10.00 on a Sunday, no one was interested in it the guy said! Bob

The scale on the indicator is in thousandths of an inch and used to find piston position reading -say .004" BTC or .004 ATC (before or After Top dead center. The .004 number would be found in the Shop service manual. This is definately an "old school" way to time the old flatheads. I would use a timing light always over this timing tool. The tool is good to locate exact TDC. To me other than that it is just a great old tool old tool! Bob

Here are 2 better pics of the timing tool. Bob

This is the timing indicator tool that fits into the head.

When I was about 12 years old I saw a T&C on the I-5 freeway and thought what a weird looking car! Then years later I ended up working on an old mans Chrysler car collection helping him keep all his old Chryslers running and he offered this car to me. I was 26 at the time and $8000.00 was a huge amount of money. He told me it was a good investment. He was correct --but if I don`t sell it it`s worth nothing. Hopefully I can be buried in it! I also bought a 1950 hardtop from him and also a 1950 Royal woodie wagon from another person in the early 80's. The convertible is painted "'Noel" green- an optional medium metallic factory color. Bob

I like the T&C`s too. Here is my 1948. Bought it in 1978 for $8000.00!

I made my own custom headliner for my Dodge truck with modern headliner material in a red/maroon color. My truck is red. It has lasted for over 20 years and does not droop/sag and also is a good sound deadner. Above the headliner retainer is a waterproof sweating barrier. I`ve seen the after market headliners and they seem to warp and look kinda cheap. The original factory headliners were of good quality card board though and looked great! Bob

Here is the Dodge truck throwout release spring setup. If you have the 11" clutch I found it's necessary to remove the spring and the release bearing to be able to pull down the pressure plate and disc. Just pull the trans and then worry about the throwout brg. and spring after the trans is out. Bob

Here is the tool I use and how to use it. Bob