Dodgeb4ya

Feel the radiator core all over as the engine warms up. There should be no cool areas on the radiator core as soon as the thermostat opens up. I think your radiator is probably pugged not the block-not timing either . Bob

This might help out of a 46-8 Dodge parts book. Bob

I went out to the shop and measured a extra 1 ton axle rear spindle nut off a 52 1-ton and it measures 2.583" across the flat sides of the 8 sided nut. Thats a bit larger than 2-9/16". I cannot find my socket for my Dodge 1 ton so I can only give you the measurements. Bob

Believe it`s a 2-9/16" 8 point socket.

Maybe carefully heat the area up to soften hardened grease? The use a high pressure gun.

The un-cooled coolant comes in at the top of the radiator- your warmest temp reading. Coolant is cooled as it travels down Radiator and into the water pump, then thru the distribution tube and block. It`s true that you should always run a thermostat as it promotes complete coolant flow to back of the block/head. If the block is clean and the radiator is absolutely flowing ok- then timing off/combustion gases leaking into coolant via leaking head gasket- super heating coolant/ faulty thermostat or wrong style- bypass housing, head gasket W /bypass hole wrong 1950-1951. Fan blade on backwards? Head milled too much-too fast of heat transfer/block bored too much-.080? Using Chinese gas? Bob

Your temperature guage could be miss leading you. You need to accurately check the engine temp. Use an infared temperature scan tool to check head/block and radiater temperatures accurately. You can pinpoint spot check temperatures on any point you want accurately. The tool will also pinpoint areas in the radiator that are not flowing properly. Run it W/O the thermostat and see what happens, it might not be opening..... Bob

Just pull the vent bolt and use the gear oil plastic bottle pointed tip and squirt it in. I think the vent bolt thread is a 3/8X24 thread. Plenty big to filler up! Bob

You could use a hot wrench and cut a hole in the housing and take a quick lookie then filler up and punch a cork in the carefully burned access hole! Well maybe not! Bob

Right side cowl mount mirror is useless! Bob

If it grinds -makes noise only when clutch pedal is pushed all the way down-improper flywheel bolts/assembly would cause noise, especially after a rebuild or engine swap. Learned this through experience.

I`d pull the drain plug and see what comes out (silvery goo)-ring and pinion /bearings worn out.If not much comes out-where did it leak from? Does the pinion seal leak/gasket leak?. Put the plug back in and a quick way to filler up would be to remove the vent bolt that holds the brake line junction block to the top of the axle housing. It`s not too big of a hole but W/ a new bottle of 85/90 and a new small bottle tip it will work. I think 3-1/4 pints would filler up. Bob Bob

I think your "pumpkin" has been swapped out at one time.1941-48 Chrysler /DeSoto rear ends are filled through the back of the axle housing, unlike 1949 and later MoPars which are filled through the diff case plug.Therefore the filler plug is not in the differential case! Bob

This "Factory Mopar" optional mirror will fit DeSoto and Dodge 1946-8. It`s a genuine Mopar option. They came from the factory on the upper line Chryslers -NewYorkers and Town & Countrys. Jay Fisher on the east coast reproduces them out of brass. Lotsa $$$$$$ ! Bob

The Dodge truck 2-1/2 tonners (1953-57) W/the 265ci. flathead were the only trucks that had the twin 1bbl carter carb setups that everyone wants to put on the long blocks. Bob

Here are 2 pictures. One picture of the Factory twin carb 413 engine in a 1953 Dodge truck- 4 tonner. Another picture of a factory 1958 Dodge 900 series truck (354ci.) Hemi twin carb setup installed on a 1952 Chrysler 331 Hemi. Bob

Jim, Here is a picture of the lockout plunger. Length is .598" Diameter is .3735" Bob

I`ve had the same problem W/ those truck clips used on the rear hood mount . The screws/bolts are a special worm thread. Never have found a proper speed nut/clip for the bolt. Ended up getting them off another truck.

That would be a 217. Right out of the 1953 master parts book!

Jim, 2nd to 3rd syncro- clutch- assemblies are one area you have to be careful as to the syncro-ring and sleeve assembly are correctly indexed, syncro-ring not cocked on 2nd gear ect. Good going! Bob

In nuetral -input and output shafts regardless if in OD both should turn freely. Was 2nd to 3rd Syncro ring properly indexed with the 3 clutch dogs?- strut type trans, Maybe a input shaft needle bearing fell out of position. When assembling the two case halves they should push right up against each other completely and smoothly-if not something is wrong. Another note is that long 10 inch 5/16" shifter fork alignment rod W/ a screw slot must be put in after the 2 case 1/2`s are tigthened up. Otherwise it`s threads will stick out and cause case misalignment.If you end up splitting the case again loosen it up a bit at a time and see if the input finally turns freely then you should be able to find the problem. I don`t know if you have a pin type or strut type trans. The factory books show all you need to know. I think the problem is in the syncronizer assembly area. Bob

Too much copper might make your vehicle a target for theft! Bob

Yes Sur! Don`t like lookin back while towin a junker home and seein the axle a foot out side the fender!

When I do new axle bearings I prepack them W/ new grease and put grease in the axle housing-I don`t take the plugs out to lube the bearings. When I want to just pump up the bearings in a so so don`t care car I pull the plug and screw in a zerk to get some grease in there, the right way is to take the axle out and inspect it and apply only new clean grease after washing out the old. You shouldn`t mix greases. With a hand trigger gun you can feel resistance when your about to over-do it,then STOP!

I always use original cloth wire installed exactly as per the original on all nice original MoPar cars. Chrysler cars use at least 30 percent more wiring than a Plymouth. Also much more heavier guage circuitry too. Plastic wiring costs 1/2 as much! You can buy it at 7-Eleven! $185.00 will do more than 1 car for clip and solder repairs. RI wants $1200.00 for all the wiring assemblys for a 1946-8 NewYorker! Y and Z probably close. Bob