knuckleharley

Has the top been filled in,or is it just the angle of the photo that makes it look filled?

Now that you mention it,I remember reading that electric cars in 1912 (the one example I remember clearly) in one city were required to have someone walk in front of it and ring a bell to warn people it was coming. In fact,IIRC,some people speculated back then that the fact they were so quiet is the prime reason why they weren't successful. Remember,prior to 1920 almost nobody took long trips in cars,and since rural areas didn't even have electricity,they were only sold to people living in cities.

Obviously it did work on at least some level or the photo of it parked on a street wouldn't have been taken. Just seems "wrong" to me.

I am no expert on late 60's GM cars,or much of anything else,but that sure looks like the front end of a front wheel drive Olds Toronado to me. Not so sure FWD is an option you would want with that much weight to the rear.

It probably came to France in a American military vehicle of some sort,or maybe in a generator,cement mixer,etc,etc,etc.

I think the first thing I would do would be to take off the starter and test it off the Ute to see if it will try to kick in. Then make any repairs it might need,clean it up good,and maybe put a tiny dab of grease in each end plate before putting it back together. Clean the cable end while you are down there,and put the cable back on using new nuts and washers.

You don't go on political discussion boards,do you? That idea wasn't even a bad one on a slow Tuesday morning on a political board.

I consider a set of the original cast iron headers to be a major score!

There is a possibility the timing marks are no longer good after the rebuild. I have heard of this happening. No real big deal if you know what the problem is. Just get your engine on TDC on number 1 clinder,and rock it back and forth with a breaker bar (MUCH easier to do if the plugs are out) until the points fire. Mark that on your balancer and disregard any other marks. I feel yore pain on the carb. Am having that problem with my 51 Ford Victoria right now. Not only did it sit for over 10 years before I bought it,but the carb on it was the wrong carb and didn't have a dash pot. Which meant it wanted to quit running when I stopped or tried to start. The last time I drove it the carb was leaking gas so badly I stopped and bought a fire extinguisher to ride home with me.I could literally smell the leaking gas while riding down the road. It is still parked where I cut it off when I got home. Nobody seemed to know what the original carb parts number was,and I was told by all the carb builders and kit suppliers that "everybody" uses that the dash pot and the bracket were impossible to find. So I went searching the internet for a 1951 Carb. Not one single hit. LOTS of false promises from people who advertise "we have everything you need!",but don't. Then I thought about it and figured that there were a LOT more 52's and 53's sold with auto transmissions,and they used the same engine. So I did a ebay search for 52 Ford on ebay automotive parts. Found a junkyard selling a 52 FOM transmission "that was pulled from the car as is,and the condition is unknown". "Hmmmm! This is a auto junkyard. If they have the transmission and say they pulled it from the car,maybe they still have and are parting out the engine?",I said,so I did a store search to see. Sure enough,that carb was the very last item they had listed out of 139 items,and the price was $54 bucks,delivered! I got it in yesterday,and the screw heads are pristine,and it looks like it has never been touched. The choke plate is stuck,the float was stuck until I shook it,and the dash pot is also stuck. No big deal. I knew the dash pot would be junk anyhow after all these years,so I had already ordered a new dash pot from ebay for $24.95. I could do that with confidence because after seeing the ebay page,I knew what it looked like. Come to find out the dash pot bracket is the part that is hard to find. Then I got the carb in yesterday,cleaned it up enough to discover all the numbers on it,and found out that same bracket and dash pot was used on Ford products with the Y-Block engine all the way up to around 1964. For any of you who want to whine about this being non-Mopar,carburetors and other mechanical parts for obsolete cars are just as hard to track down as non-Mopar parts,and the same methods will apply. Yeah,it has been a pain in the butt,but if I have to rebuild a carb to put on an original car,I want it to be the RIGHT carb. Getting the right carb that appears to be unmolested and missing no parts is a bonus. Sometimes you just have to dig and ask. Seems to me a lot of times the missing part I am looking for is such a minor part that nobody bothers to list them,so you have to look for related parts,and then send the seller a email asking them if they also have the part you want. You might be surprised at the luck I have had doing that.

VERY clear thinking! My motto these days is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it!"

It doesn't matter because both are flowing air and fuel anytime the engine is running,so both have to be set,but if it were me,I would put the rear carb back on the centered ball,and then see about getting the front one there,too. Chances are as you get the first one flowing,you will have to jump back to the rear one to adjust it,then the front one again. It's all about balancing them out with a 2 carb intake.

Yes,and no. Depends on the manufacturer. Some (most?) didn't even use engine numbers. Sometimes it might even depend on the model and year of the car or truck.

And.........?

56 Mopar flat 6's came with a 2 brl intake and carb? I need to check my 55 Plymouth parts car with the 230. I could have sworn it uses a 1brl.

When did you get your Edgy head in? I ordered a 23 inch and a 25 inch,and haven't heard a thing.

Will I have to turn my screen name into "Flash"? Top intake is an Edmunds Racing.

I am still using whatever was on mine.

I didn't even realize there was such a thing! Thanks!

Nobody makes repo rubber mats? If not,somebody is missing the gravy train boat!

Not any more he isn't. It went from "free" to "I'm going to keep it!" in the blink of an eye.

A smile and a fist full of cash will take you far in this world.

VERY good advice. Be VERY careful when buying NOS fuel pump rebuild kits because the old diaphragms won't stand up to ethanol.

Ok,you have me confused there. The timing mark and distributor are connected at the hip. If you are timing the engine and ignoring the timing mark,the distributor has been installed without it pointing at number 1 cylinder. I have an engine that was timed 180 degrees off when I got it,but the plug wires were installed 180 degrees off in the distributor cap to compensate. I know it is off 180 degrees,so no big deal. Given the problems you are having with this while trying to learn about how your car operates,you really need to get your firing order set on the number 1 cylinder and then install your distributor so the rotor cap points at the number one plug wire position. That will make any further research or work you do on this a LOT less confusing to you. Buy a motors manual from ebay,Abes Books,etc,etc,etc,that covers the year 1948,and go to the tune up and ignition sections and read them VERY carefully. In fact,read them while looking at your engine and ignition system,and reread them until it all makes sense to you. The basics are the basics for good reasons. Everything begins there. The tune up section will even tell you how to use your vacuum gauges and what the different readings indicate. Buying a Motors Repair Manual that covers 1948 will be the best money you will ever spend on your car.

Nothing to panic about. Hammer it out and weld it up,or cut a piece to fit and weld it in place.

It's a free car. It makes no difference what the mileage is.