JBNeal

Seat Control Tag

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 garbage truck on the FB

The short answer is a definitive maybe... I'm not sure if the W-series 3spd & B-Series 3spd were the same...I would guess they were very close, but since there are precision parts involved, guessing is no guarantee. W-series 3spds had a straight stick-shift, while the B-series had the formed stick-shift. The major difference between the B-1 stick shift and the B-2/B-3/B-4 column shift was the top cover & park-brake attachment. I do not believe a 3 spd stick shift could be had with a firewall-mounted park-brake. I recall that the 3spd bell housing is different from the 4spd bell housing, so if you opt for the 4spd swap, the bell housings need to be matched. And then there are the Fluid Drive transmissions with their longer input shafts... The access panel in the floorboard will have to be modified of course...that's secondary to the transmission operation, and it can be covered with a floor mat, so precision, though nice to look at, is not required for proper operation. I have a '52 parts truck with a late '49 3spd stick shift installed in such a way it looks like the floor panel was modified with a Remington and a hatchet... I have not tinkered with the column shift in the Spring Special yet, but it looks very much like the linkage setup on a Farmall I worked on, and every wear point needed attention on that old beast of a tractor. The factory instructions were useless for adjustment because there was too much wear in the linkage points. So I did some finagling and made it work...it wasn't perfect, but only the trained eye would notice that I made any modifications. Given enough time, these linkage points can be repaired with some careful welding & machining to get the linkages to operate as required. If the column shift transmission is in good shape, but the linkages are worn, it may be cheaper and less labor intensive to fix what ya have...but then again, if ya have the right 3spd to make a swap, that could be the quickest repair

VINTAGEPIC saw this B-3 delivery truck on the FB

you can verify the cam lobe travel with a dial indicator mounted through the block...the fuel pump lever rides on that lobe and only travels so far to engage the diaphragm link. The last time I installed a fuel pump, I recall that the lever had to be partially depressed on the cam lobe so the pump flange would contact the block, possibly because the spring I had was on the long side. If you're concerned about dropping the spring into the oil pan during installation, you could put a dab of heavy grease on the end of the spring at the lever arm to make it stick in place

here's a tip: verify the engine year & size before ya start getting parts for it...that way ya don't have parts from the head gasket set that don't fit

hey look...a boat anchor

I have used these on my JD 425 for its 1/4" fuel hose & a 1/4" water pump bypass hose. The fuel hose has to make a right angle from the fuel filter to the carburetor; the spring rate of the fuel hose puts stress on the plastic fuel filter so much so that the inline filter takes on a banana shape. The problem is that if that fuel filter splits in the middle, the fuel pump in the tank will push fuel through this break and onto the very hot muffler, which can cause a fire...and this scenario played out for the previous owner of this fine machine, as he probably neglected to change out the filter annually, so he traded that marshmallow on a newer green machine, and I scooped up a Cadillac of a lawn tractor for a few bucks, it only needed all of the plastic replaced forward of the steering wheel. Anyhow, I upgraded the fuel line with these Gates unicoils back in '03, and haven't had a problem as the fuel filters have come out straight. The bypass hose comes in close proximity to the muffler on that machine, so I put a coil there to form the hose to clear that heat source and as a bit of a guard if the hose flops around, then the metal coil will bounce off of the heat source instead of the rubber. I may use them on the heater hoses on my trucks, maybe the fuel pump rubber line also...O'Reilly's carried them on the shelf until recently, but I was told they no longer carry them. NAPA has them as special order items, and their prices were competitive with the eBay vendors, so that's the way I went when I added one on the bypass hose

I reckon a true mosey requires a slow somewhat steady pace coupled with looking towards the ground...ya never know whut ya might step into while out in the country: rabbit hole, rattler, fresh pile...

Don--that appears to be the Deluxe Package, ya got a few more bits & a snazzy carrying case As for the Subaru, its leaky head gaskets finally blew @153k back in July when it overheated, just now getting around to doing a minor overhaul on that li'l cuss that's included replacing the steering rack, O2 sensors, transmission/differential fluids...it's my Dad's "spare" car that he rarely drives, I overhauled the brakes and replaced the struts 2 yrs ago when he started to do them and long story short I did the whole thing myself while he recuperated from trying to fab up his own strut compressor...after he got it out of me how much I spent on this buggy this year alone, he offers to sign over the title to me (apparently he forgot that I tried to buy it from him a few days before it overheated)

TOOLBOX ARSENAL: I had to take apart a Subaru oil pump to clean it thoroughly, and all but one of the countersunk screws came out easily. The last one needed some persuasion with a KD Tool impact screwdriver from the 70s...it needed some Marvel Mystery Oil to free it up as it had not been used in some time. Several smart blows later and that ornery screw was backing out, with minimal damage to the Phillips head...and they still make these things

While working on the Subaru today, I needed to stick the water pump gasket to the pump body, so I moseyed up to the barn to fish out the yeller grease...it's quite thick

VINTAGEPIC: saw these B-series campers on the FB

SURVIVOR saw this'n on the FB

1950 1/2 ton with pin-striping & no title...getting a title can run upwards of 500 depending on paperwork & govt employee aptitude...if the motor/transmission are stuck/shot, I would be hard pressed to throw more than 750 at it cuz of all the work it would need to make it road-worthy...but that's like my opinion, mannn

HOLLYWOOD saw this documentary film on FB:

I apologize for my negativity, but hanging power equipment by their cords is considered an OSHA violation because the wiring inside the cords can be damaged and possibly cause a short circuit...the expanded metal is very nice and with a little more creativity, them power tools can be stored in a more safe manner.

I reckon the rule of thumb is to operate for 500 miles before the first oil change on break-in, which could be about 20 hours preferably with some loading to really heat up the internals to soften up the crud

I've seen a few two tones that appear to be derivatives of the Spring Special on the bigger trucks...most follow the break lines around the hood over the doors like these or those...some follow the beltline of the cab like this'n or that'n...one of the looks I've fancied is the white or argent grille bars + front bumper on the 51-53 nose on a darker color like a royal blue or flame red, with possibly a white upper cab above the beltline (cuz it's so hot here in TX)

additional information - unknown survivor

Pictures, please TOOLBOX ARSENAL: These soldering pliers were dusted off to work on a aircraft power supply unit...very effective for soldering crimped lugs on 2/0 gauge wire: solder flowed within a second, and still flowed 10 seconds after the pliers were removed

I think the big issue with the V8 swap is addressing the clearance of the exhaust manifold to the stock steering gearbox. I am not a proponent of the V8 swap as it appears like a LOT of work to make the truck functional...with the flathead 6, not only do ya have a motor that fits, where parts are still available (it takes a little work to find the good stuff sometimes), but ya get the WOW factor of the flathead look & exhaust note. Another point of interest is addressing the brakes...if ya put the master cylinder on the firewall, then ya more than likely will have to scab in a brake pedal assembly to mount inside the cab to the firewall & back of the dash. Might as well upgrade the brakes to a dual chamber master with rotors up front and maybe in the rear...by then the snowball is a-rollin' as ya have to decide how many upgrades do ya want, cuz at some point ya might even contemplate just putting the Pilot House body on a Dakota rolling chassis, which has a modern powertrain & brakes

NOSpart: 1272155 The NOS 51-53 steering wheel I saw on eBay in 2010 was still in its original box, but the dunderhead seller slapped a UPS label and some packaging tape on that gem of a box & it survived transit in not as good as condition as advertised, which was quite disappointing as it could have made for a nice display item...the steering wheel still has the cosmoline applied and some slight shelf wear (probably from rattling around in the box on the way from over yonder)

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 Woody over on The Pilot House Registry

NOSpart: I found some NOS oil filters over the years