JBNeal

Ya might want to spring for the 1000# version, I have a 230 on a 1000# stand now and even it wobbles a bit when moving around...the lighter weight engine stands might be too unstable to use safely...though be warned that sometimes the quality of these assemblies isn't always the best

Them driveshaft serrated cups look like the expensive Cleveland type U-joint that requires locking tabs on the lock strap bolt heads...the yoke U-joint looks like the less expensive spring clip type, my guess that yoke came with the transmission and slipped right onto the original axle...here's further u-joint discussion

ZTR mowers are ok but I'm not a fan...JD, Hustler, Scag, Dixon, et al run upwards of 10dB louder than a conventional mower as conventionals have their mufflers further away from the operator's seat while ZTRs have a muffler within arm's reach behind your head...conventional mowers have a smoother ride as almost all of their weight is between the axles; ZTRs teeter over the rear wheels as those tiny front wheels bounce away...conventional mowers can hold a straight line traversing a slope, whereas ZTRs have to be feathered to try to hold a line on a slope, basically it's a controlled slide...ZTRs can make a tight circle, but the tires chew up the ground in the process as they twist the turf+dirt while pivoting, if ya can keep the tires from spinning... I bought a '92 JD 425 back in 2001 that had caught fire due to neglected maintenance, was gonna fix it up to flip it, but after giving it a shakedown workout, I decided to keep it...water-cooled Kawasaki 20hp, all-wheel steering, hydrostatic transmission + power steering, 54inch deck with hydraulic lift, floats over lumpy ground, pulls steep hills, effortless steering, turned a 6 hour job with the worn '86 Cub Cadet into a 3 hr job...I use that machine to tractor stuff around, drag off brush, etc...if ya have more than 2 acres, ya gotta get into heavy duty estate machines with retail support, not the cheapos from HomeDepot that will leave ya disappointed especially when it's time for maintenance...I am now mowing not only my place but 4 retired neighbors' acreage as they tried the cheap stuff for years but found it was cheaper just to pay me to knock it out in half the time with my old green machine

Chasing down oil leaks on flatheads can try your patience...as these engines age, they can really mark their territory while still running smoothly. I'm guessing that you bought someone else's restoration, so your approach depends on your use. If you are gonna flip this, then repairs can get costly...old seals can wear small grooves in polished surfaces so as that new seals weep a little...this can be repaired in some instances with Speedi-sleeves or may require some machining...gaskets may not have been installed properly or sealed adequately during assembly, so that could require disassembly for repair...drain plugs could not be sealing properly either...lots of candidates for leaks here...then there's that draft tube...

grey beard did a write-up on his reflooring experience that has some good insights

another deficiency of the B-3s...that trim piece I've seen on parts trucks and survivors full of dirt, sand and rust ranging from pinholes to rot...they designed a gap in there, but it clogs up quick from roostertails flung on unimproved roads

I squeezed in some flathead time back in June in between tree trimmings, utilizing info I gleaned here, a few sticks of HomeDepot not-so-great discounted pressure-treated lumber, and a mess of leftover thread-cutting 2-1/2" deck screws, and made a few engine stands...this helped to tidy up the place with the spare engines I have out and to get ready to pull the engines that need attention. I had a spare oil pan in my stash and used it for spacing for the four stands I built...the first one took maybe an hour to get done, the other 3 got knocked out in less than an hour. The Harbor Freight furniture dolly is still cheaper than buying 4 individual casters, though they are not bullet-proof (found that out moving some heavy furniture for a lady friend into an upstairs apartment when the casters pooped out their greasy ball bearings onto a new carpet...OOPS). Total cost for each stand was less than $20; most of that was the dolly. The cut list for this stand is simple: 2x4: 29" (2) 18" (2) 7" (12) 1x4: 10" (4) I made two of the engine stands with longer runners so I could move those with the forklift if needed...the extra length is for some cross beams I can add for stable movement with the forks and allow me to put the whole stand + engine in the back of a truck for transport to and from the machine shop

As the heater assembly was a post-production option, Mopar suggested the control assembly be installed to the left of the steering column with mounting holes located on the dash flange...however, I have seen more than one example online and in person that the heater controls could be located in a variety of locations...on B-1s, I have seen several examples where the full controls were located directly below the ignition key; I have also seen heater and fan controls (without defrost or fresh air ctrls) mounted in the blank dash area above the steering column on B-1s and B-3s; and on a few B-3s, I have seen full controls mounted in the blank dash area above the ignition key so that there were 8 knobs stacked neatly in 2 rows (my favorite looking configuration)...as long as the controls work, are accessible and ya don't bang your knees on them, then that's good enough for me and I don't think Mopar will void the heater warranty... As for the heater in question, is the fan not working? Bypassing the switch to energize the motor can determine if the switch or the motor is at fault

hood support rubber tips

I've got a yard decorated with one of each... B-1s that have that rad.brace that doubles as a bridle bit when checking the brake fluid, B-3s that have hoods that tear because of inadequate bracing...this contrived competition is like watching two bald guys fight over a comb

Kinda doubtful that those braces are made by anybody now...those hoods were only made for 3 model years on a truck that represented less than 10% of the total truck market back then so your best bet is to find some original hoods that are OK or to fab up your own.

I repainted my rusty LPG tank (mfg in '64) back in late 2011 using the foam roller method with Rustoleum, took my time, a few hours a day, over 3 weeks, and it's still just as shiny as it was after I was done...my neighbor painted his newish steel carport about the same time, went cheap on the paint, got in a hurry and knocked it out over 2 weekends, and it started getting rusty the following spring, looks crummy now...so take your time, do it right the 1st time, and you'll probably never need to paint it again

Monroe's website, like many other OEMs and chain store suppliers, lacks a little accuracy on stuff that is over 30 yrs old...I matched up originals I pulled off the '49 to the 31000 and 32207 and documented it awhile back... additional information - parts interchange

My understanding is that muriatic acid attacks anything and everything, but phosphoric acid is less aggressive on metals...I have used Rust-Cure for years, it seems more effective than Ospho as Ospho would need more than one application for complete rust removal...it worked well on sheet metal, structural steel and cast iron, used it on the Farmall 1206 restoration I completed in '04 and I credit it for keeping that tractor from getting rusty again as it is still being worked today, shredding pastures and hauling hay

This is similar in size to the Dodge truck brochure I found on eBay years ago...in 2017, I found a local copy & print shop that advertised for architecture printing, turns out their printer doubled as a scanner for E size drawings...I had them scan my original to get a digital copy on my thumb drive, then print that file so I could frame it and put the original in a safe place

I found a local copy & print shop that was able to scan a large 2-sided vintage Dodge truck brochure, not quite an E size, and copy a jpg to a thumb drive I supplied...I tried to put this on my photobucket but connectivity issues + large data files made uploading difficult, then *POOF* it disappeared 3 times, along with several other folders, something the photobucket ppl said would never happen, but that's another story

I took a look at the money pit and noticed the '48, '49 and '50 cabs have a firewall hole for bracing the radio, whereas the '51, '52 and '53 do not...the '49 has a 802 radio installed, tho there must have been a problem with the installation, evidenced by the witness marks on the firewall inside the engine compartment where the bracket bolt was originally installed...it was then flipped down and another hole was added to the firewall for the final installation... (not sure why this attachment keeps falling over after 3 tries...??) the original firewall pad was not cut for radio installation for whatever reason, and from trying to get these pics, it was not easy to access under the dash...I'm gonna guess the installer had trouble lining up the bracket with the back of the radio, so he just made it work...

NOSpart: 1197575 Floor Mat Brad's NOS floor mat

Brad, I'm totes J...what is that backing made of?

Some of us have memories of previous iterations of this website long before you joined...sooooooo.... ?

I can attest that if the bed wood isn't in place, that the grease zerk for the front shackle does not line up with the access hole in the side panel between the running board and bed floor flange

20 years later, and that silicon is still in place, nothing has rusted out, nor struck by lightning, nor attacked by bees, nor stampeded by unicorns...

additional information - Merle's Quiet Ride Interior

No grommet was used for the wires...my 2 cents, if this extra ventilation opening is covered after final assembly, I wouldn't lose any sleep over that imperfection, cuz life is too short to try to fix all of the imperfections in the world

I distinctly remember classified ads being listed that were well over a year old, new members inquiring about item availability, and established members chiding the new members about the age of the original ad...the new system has eliminated that awkward exchange, which has been great...tho a clarification question is still unanswered