Dan Hiebert

I'm having trouble envisioning what you're describing as far as the mechanism. But the symptom you describe is really not that uncommon. The Bendix drive assembly that engages the flywheel can wear out or get stuck. Removal of the starter is necessary, and you can do a bench check to see if the pinion moves like it's supposed to. The service manual I have describes how to check the Bendix drive for wear and tear. It can just be stuck, or there is a spring in it that can break that keeps the pinion from moving out like it should.

You can also remove the whole bushing from the a-arm. It won't adversely affect the front-end alignment, you'll just have to be careful to stabilize the a-arm when you take it off and appropriately torque the bushing when you put it back on. All of my manuals show that zerk as a fitting into the end of the bushing. That way you can clean it/them really well and determine what you need to do about the nipple while it's on a bench, instead of under the car, much easier to work on. Any drilling or tapping you may need to do won't affect the rest of the assembly, and you can install a metric component if that's all you can find. Then you'll probably never have to worry about it again.

Ditto Bob Riding's first post. I bought run channel from Restoration Specialties and Supply for both our D24 and the '57 Ford I was working on a couple years ago. I'll be buying the run channel for our '37 Terraplane from them in a few months.

The Drug Enforcement Administration's museum in their headquarters in Arlington, VA used to have a Tucker on display. It had been bought with drug profits (it was the en-vogue antique car to have back then) and was ultimately seized when DEA wrapped the case up. I saw it there in '94, but I vaguely recall that since then they have gotten rid of it, donated to the Smithsonian, I think.

Ditto kencombs' recommendations. I have not stored an engine for more than a month or two, but I have several friends who have stored engines over long periods of time, and that is what they all did to preserve their engines. The only variations were exactly what oil to use, they used some sort of engine oil and never considered using penetrating oil. I would not recommend penetrating oil for the reasons already stated. There are companies that make oils specifically for preserving stuff in storage if you're so inclined to go that route, but that is probably unnecessary overkill. The prime enemy of storing machinery for long periods is moisture/condensation, followed closely by contaminants - to include wee critters and their detritus. Wherever you store the engine, it should be in a relatively constant climate. If you're in a humid area with four actual seasons, you shouldn't store it in a shed, even well-oiled and covered it will still get condensation on and in it. My vote would be to get it in that basement in one piece and covered, with occasional manual rotations. That will have the tertiary benefit of maybe being in the way and prompting quicker action with it.

This won't help - I'd recommend a redirection as opposed to an interdiction - stick with the Beemers. They've got stuff with HP, too. Our son was a service manager at an exotic car dealership in MI for a while, and although I've never been in the market, his unsolicited advice, prompted by sheer frustration, has been to stay away from British automobiles.

Just a thought, may not apply since the work you've done has improved the braking, but do you know what type of brake fluid is in the car? As in DOT3 or DOT5? I imagine you know the difference, but whether or not the PO told you what's in it is another story.

And we haven't even fully explored our oceans, either. Seems if we could develop the technology do that, exploring space and the other planets would be at least a tad easier. The downside to exploring every inch of the Earth, though, is that humans tend to mess up wherever we go. We've already left garbage (albeit very expensive garbage) on our moon and a few of the other planets.

I've been using NAPA's paint service. If you don't have a paint code or know the color (i.e., Chrysler black, Mercedes black, etc.) they have the special camera and they'll either scan a sample you bring in, or they'll go to your shop and scan it there, load it into their paint color program, and usually find a match. Sometimes the match seems kind of odd - the red on my BIL's car matches an Isuzu color that didn't exist when the car was last painted, but it's a perfect match now. If they don't have an existing match, the program can give them the recipe for it. They'll fill from rattle-cans up to gallon cans, and, here anyway, there's no minimum. This store didn't charge me for the color matching. The price of the paint was on par with everywhere else I looked. Ditto on a prior post regarding the rattle-cans, they spray a good pattern.

Yeah, we transitioned to only indoor Christmas trappings. We used to do the outdoor decorations to the nines, and I put all the bells and whistles out the first winter we were here...then couldn't take them down until April. Well, I probably coulda taken them down earlier, but that would have required shoveling snow and chiseling ice, and would have broken 1/2 of it. Sure was purdy turning the lights on under the snow and ice, though. I realize some folks wait until June, but I ain't one of 'em. Here's wishing everyone enjoys the season, however you celebrate it, and even if you don't!

Every time a Tesla is charged, all of its data, including mileage, is reported to Tesla's mainframe. If there is an issue with the car, it gets reported back to the owner. Technically no OBD necessary with Big Brother Tesla monitoring. Every EV that is charged at a commercial charging station has its data reported to a mainframe somewhere, too, which still makes its way back to the manufacturer. Many residential charging stations do that as well, that is why folks generally have to install proprietary charging stations, even at home. It would be easy for the State to access that information. In New Mexico, every home sold, even existing ones, now has to have an EV charging station installed - it has to be approved by the State - so you know monitoring is probably included. In my mind, that means EVs can be taxed per mile, while leaving gas vehicles to the gas tax. What's irritating is that I already know that won't happen. Most State and Federal legislators only see through rose colored dollar sign glasses. If taxed mileage comes to pass, gas vehicles would be double taxed for road use. Here in Maine, we have to record mileage every year when we register our vehicles, and when we get them inspected (which don't have to coincide). Both of those go into a State database, so that data is accessible to the State as well. We also have to consider both the State and the Fed tax gas, so both would most likely tax mileage. "Death and Taxes", as they say, but it's still not fair. But to paraphrase a favorite movie quote - "Fair's got nothing to do with it."

Thank you, kind Sir, for kicking off the thread! And Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, however you may observe the occasion! Wife has started cooking, so I'm banished from the kitchen except to retrieve the occasional cup-o-joe (no back-story there, that's just how she prefers it). The dog has been taken out for her morning "patrol", nice crisp day out, although we're expecting that winter storm that the media has been touting this afternoon. We've done too much back and forth to NJ recently and are kind of tired of people, so it's just us this year.

I dare ya! Provide video proof and prepare a nice epitaph beforehand!

No frills, lots of storage, easy access to wares, least expensive models. Sometimes called a businessman's coupe. Every maker had their version with commensurate sales pitches why theirs was better. Generally only the front seat, back seat omitted for storage. Easy access to wares from the driver's or passenger's door, such as a two door sedan without a back seat, and access to the trunk behind the front seat. Another was copious trunk space from configuring the passenger cabin to accommodate only one bench seat, some early post war MoPar business coupes are examples of that version; huge trunk, itty-bitty three window cabin/roof, but they also made a five window cabin without the back seat version.

Welcome, and very nice car. FWIW, whether original or not - that is a very pleasant color scheme.

That sounds like the switch, to me. A quick check could be to either use a jumper between the appropriate contacts on the back of the switch to see if it cranks the starter, or to remove the appropriate wires from the switch and touch them together to see if it cranks the starter. If you don't want to do that, you can remove the starter switch and bench test it, but as Plymouthy notes, it is better to troubleshoot the problem than to jury-rig something. I would isolate where the problem is and fix it.

I appreciate the work people put into their cars regardless of automotive genre. I prefer to keep mine as original as possible as long as we can drive and enjoy the car(s). When we first got our D24 I was all about "all original" but evolved from that when it hampered our enjoyment of the car. I enjoy working on them just as much as using them, but not when it involves frustration because original may be close to impossible by my means. I'm not above putting a newer driveline in something, the only burr in my undies is to keep the brand the same, Chevy in a Chevy, Ford in a Ford, Mopar in a Mopar, etc.

Ditto Loren's and Doug&Deb's post. Rebuild kits are available, I got mine from Andy Bernbaum. It is not difficult, and if you are adept enough to get the steering box out, you should have no trouble fixing it if you so choose. Mine needed a complete rebuild - hardest part for me was getting the old bearing races out simply because I didn't have the right tools. If yours is just leaking, you may only need the seal and perhaps the sector shaft bushing. I can't give any better a run-down than Loren does. As Doug&Deb notes, getting it out of the car first can be a little challenging if you can't get the front end high enough off the ground. I had to use extra blocks on my jack and jack stands to get it high enough, if you've got access to a lift, that would make it so much easier.

Yes, you are correct.

The ammeter mainly just checks current flow, it does not have to be hooked up to all those components to work. As you note, all you need to do to check if it is working or not is to put a load through it. Use a circuit that is working, run a jumper or two, as needed, to complete the circuit with the ammeter in it. Pay attention to which way the current is running.

I usually do the feathering of the gas, as you put it, while engaging the clutch. Probably more out of habit than necessity. I have, on occasion though, put the car in gear with the brake applied, and taken off from there. The owners manual says you can do that for certain situations such as taking off on a hill or in slippery situations. I've even mistakenly started the car in gear with the clutch engaged. Jumps enough to realize the mistake and hit the brakes, but doesn't die.

Unknown if you could still find it herein, but Don Coatney (RIP) put a 25" 265 out of a DeSoto in his P15 and documented the process quite well here in the Forum. This was going on 20 or so years ago now, but if you can still access the thread, it has a wealth of information.

Yeah, ditto Sniper's comment. Our D24 did not have a filter when we got it. I scored one off of a B1B (it was a Dodge Pilot House truck, that's all I knew at the time). Same filter as the one you have there, mine does not have a drain plug. I use a turkey baster to drain the oil (no, not out of the wife's cooking utensil drawer), although there are several kinds of inexpensive siphon pumps that will do the trick, too. Walmart's Hyper Tough brand makes one that comes to mind, I have one, works well but messy to clean up. The turkey baster is better at getting the last dregs of oil from the bottom. I used to use the Fram C134PL filter, but could not find one, not even a cross reference, when I needed one last year. Now I use a Wix 51080, and others use Wix 51010. I am unsure of any meaningful difference, I went with the 51080 because that is what they had in stock at the time. Only place that had either of them up here had them listed under agricultural / industrial applications.

Up here I aim for mid-October to put the old cars up, the onset of winter tends to be all over the map lately, but we can still bet on some form of snow before November. Putting the cars away involves a bit of garage-Tetris to get 4 cars in the shop so I have room to work on one, and other projects, over the winter. I discovered those under wheel car dollies last year, sure makes things easier! This winter the Terraplane takes center stage. Took the ol' D24 out for a casual spin last week to get the fuel stabilizer all through the system, gave it a good wash, and put it in the corner for the winter. First winter since we've been here that I don't feel compelled to work on something on the Dodge. A dusting of snow last night, below freezing overnights, highs in the 40's all week except Halloween, when it's supposed to get up to 70. We don't get Trick-or-Treaters at our house, but we give out treats in town at the Elks Lodge, so we still get to see the neat costumes.

Welcome! Yes, folks on this Forum are a curious and helpful bunch!