40plyrod

When I was looking for that stuff for Dad's 27 Chrysler I found that our local shoe repair had the rivets but I had to get an uphostery shop to make the welting.

Great job looks like it's comming along. That backseat is a really neat idea. I like it.

Hey Rick I don't know if you've seen this thread yet. Not many of us listed above the 49th parallel on the west yet.http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=20794

Thanks Bill, That's exactly what I was looking for, my 40 sedan has roadking badging however it does have both wipers( electric too),two horns, as well as front arm rests, but I also wondered why most of the picture of front suspensions showed a sway bar but mine didn't now I know.

I think I learned that lesson already. I bought a trunk lock with keys off ebay for my 40 plymouth sedan door and was assured that it was the same as the door lock ( it's not) the shaft is longer. I needed the door lock, but may be able to make it kinda work by shortening it. What years do the locks interchange if any?

Just noticed where your from, we're practiclly nieghbours:D Have you ever brought that car down island to any show (I'm sure I would remember seeing that flathead) I'd love to see it in person. Ed

I have had luck in the past with drilling a hole close to the size and then taking a tapered square shaped punch (think easy-out) and driving it in the hole to square out the corners. I made the mistake of ordering bed strips for my chevy pickup without holes and made square holes for the carrige bolts this way

BEAUTIFUL CAR. Thanks for posting.

I finally found the missing finished door pictures and added them. Also still wondering what the door seals are like and where they fit on the '40 plymouths as well anybody got some info on the vent windows what cars had them? Thanks Ed

I have thought about this on my car too, since I'm planning to keep the six. I haven't looked into it too closely but is there room to cross up front under the oil pan before the transmission?

Thanks. Yes I measured both door openings and they're the same, the door on the drivers side fits really tight too. The frame is straight but the floor was really rotten and so were the rockers so I had to replace all that. I was quite careful to brace things and adjust things back to where they were supposed to be but I'm sure there was some room for error. The end result will be everything working fine it just may take a little longer to get there.

Hey guys been continuing to patch rust on my 40 sedan and have worked my way to the doors. I started on the passenger door first and set up the hinges the best I could the drilled a 1/8th inch hole through the top and bottom hinges so I could duplicate the position quickly. The door seemed too big for the opening as it was jamming on the post so I made a verticle cut on the b pillar post on the inside and eased it back with a block of wood and a hammer. I then welded the post up. Next I worked on the door gaps and fixed them by grinding along the door edge and them welding it and then gringing it till I had a even gap all the way round. I also had to make a relief cut in the front edge of the door window opening to allow that part of the door to get closer to the body. Finally I made a replacement panel for the lower inside part of the door as well as a patch for the lower outside skin. Then I decided to move the outside door lock to the drivers side.This required removing the section of door around the lock as to get the lock cylinder holder. The lock cam mecanism in the passenger side latch had to moved to the drivers latch but the drivers latch has the capabilites for this, so it's just a matter of unbending a few tabs and swaping stuff over. After doing all this I have some questions. Do the 40 plymouths use a rubbed door seal, there doesn't look as though there is a lot of room for one? Was there ever an option for locks on both sides of the car? Also my 40 has a one piece side windows no vent windows and it looks factory to me, but I think most of the 40's I've seen here have vent windows is mine a low option sedan? Thanks Ed

My 1st project was a peach with only a bit of rust in the footwell below the heater and some in the box sides, but my dad actually bought it for a farm truck and then gave it to me. It was a great way to get started. The second project was a bit more challenging it was my dad's first car a 1927 chrysler and had quite a bit of rust in the rear wheel wells, tailpan and lower cowl, but the worst part was the rust in the belt line in the rear of the cab. I started with the easiest patches and worked my way up to those. By the time I was ready for my next project I felt pretty confident in my ability to patch rust and really like the lines of what turned out to be a very rusy 40 plymouth sedan. So far I've replaced the floor( firewall to tailpan) lower sections of both rear wheel wells, tail pan, the bottom 5" of the trunk lid(inner and skin), Holes in the lower rear fenders (both sides),5" of the lower rear quarters (behind the doors) as well as 5" of the passengers door bottom (inner and skin). I still have to do the drivers door and the lower cowl(both sides as well as the drip rails(both sides). If I had had more money to spend and was able to find a better 40 (they're pretty scarce around here) I would have probably bought a better one but I like the challenge and sense of accomplishment from taking a car that was probably heading for the crusher and making it like new again. If however my projects are following a pattern I'm a little afraid of what I'll try and save next:eek: Maybe I'll take my Dad shopping with me:D

Me too execpt the pumping the brakes part, but every couple of weeks I find myself sitting behind the wheel thinking or making vrooom vrooom noises:D

15/17 I think I need to study up on my plymouth motors:o I did pretty well on the quizzes on identifying the cars too but I was very humbled by the auto history part.

I'm with you! It's snowing here and they're expecting 15-20cm by wednesday, that should be just enough to make feeding the animals difficult.

I would also check the passages and jets in the carb. I once had a bike that did the same sortof thing and found that the gas had varnished up in one of the jets from sitting to long with gas in it. Now I always drain the float bowl on my bike if it's going to sit for any length of time. I'm not saying thats the problem but maybe a place to check.

You guys are confusing and scaring me. My problem would be this if Canada is up there and the US is down there and I live on Vancouver Island, Canada very close ( within minutes ) to the 49th parallel then I'm neither here nor there.

if you leave your make-do repair will your car be easier to "tune" up:D

We only run the mill in winter because we run a 150 head dairy farm on 600+ acres 250 of which is fields so in spring we're busy planting, we crop all sumer and in the fall repair the equipment and put it away, winter is our quiet time. The timber for the mill comes from the 350 or so treed land. Every year we try to log a little of the forest mainly taking out the blow downs, snags and overcrowded areas. As for the fargo's personality, it's been lovingly refered to as "fudd" for as long as I can remember.

My wife made the mistake of letting me put these on the tree when my girls were little and now they have become a mandatory decoration for the tree (first things on the tree after the lights) Only a couple of mopars though, I'll have to see if I can find some more.

Here's a couple more. Hope you enjoy.

Thought some of you would enjoy seeing some pictures of our old sawdust truck and while I was taking pictures decided to include some of our mill too. The truck is a 1947 fargo and is where my interest in flat sixes comes from (that motor is indestructable, last old change was probably in the 60's it's had the block welded at least twice due to forgetting to drain the water in the winter) it always starts. The sawmill is my Dad's second and was built in the 70's the first version ran a t-120 chrysler six but was upgraded to a gm diesel six out of a grader. We run the mill every winter and all the buildings on the farm were built using our own lumber. We also have a circa 20's marathon planer run by a six cylinder cummins that we use to size the lumber but I forgot to take pictures of it.

This is quite a timely subject for me as I'm half way through the project of moving the lock to the drivers side. I found out when I removed both door latches the the drivers side latch was the same as the passengers only reversed and the passenger side had a little cam at the bottom the was activated by the key shaft. The drivers latch was only missing that cam but everything else was there so I took the latches apart and move the cam to the driver's door latch. Then I carefully measured and cut out the area of the door skin that held the handle and lock on the passenger side transferred it to the drivers side cut that out the same and switched them and welded them in. I did it this way so the inner stiffner went with the lock and handle. Everything seem to work well so far I've just got to put the latch back in the passenger side door to finish to say it worked 100%. I also moved the lock on my 51 chevy pickup but it was easier, just unbolt the passenger side doorhandle and switch it to the drivers side:D

Not sure who's story this helps, but I picked this out of the bottom of a box at a swap meet for a toonie a few years back. I liked it because I like plymouths and I'm also a farmer and use baler twine.