40plyrod

Mine are the 4 hole type but I ve already built the disc brake set up (see my post on how I did this) Is there a difference between the uprights though? The uprights I bought were made like the ones Charlie made cutting them at the bridge and moving the kingpin boss up the upright but no extra plating was added, although some could be added but I'd leave that to a certified welder if I was going to use them.

Maybe I'm jumping to conclusions I didn't think there was a difference in the upright portion of the spindle between early plymouths and later. I know the spindle itself is different but seperating it at the kingpin isn't the upright the same? I'm using 15" wheels to clear my disc brake caliper although I have 14" on there now. I'll post some pictures later on today.

This weekend some friends and I went to the big(for our area) coastal swap meet where I picked up a set of homemade dropped uprights. My plan was just to use them to see if they would work with the disc brake setup I made and then replace them with ones from fatman, however having had a pretty good look at them now I'm wondering if I should use them as is. They look well built and well used meaning that the paint on them is rock chipped everywhere. The guy I bought them from said they were made by a local rodder in the late sixtys and used on his plymouth until his car was sold and the new owner replaced the front end with a mustang II. They may not even work with the disc brakes I'm using but I was wondering if I should use them and what I should do to check them out; Magnaflux them, x-ray or just use them to mock up and throw them out( I didn't pay much for them).I'm quite sure that I don't want to be driving and have a wheel fall off:eek: Thanks

Nice car Cpt. Looks similar to mine.. (if mine wasn't rusty, was painted and could move under it's own power). I'm not sure if it's been answered but what did you do to lower the front?

Hey guys my wife just brought home for me the latest issue of Street Rodder July 2010 and inside is a large article on the BW overdrive. Mainly the R11 used in the fords but also a little on the R10 plus a wiring schematic. I'm not sure how well it relates to our cars as I've never had one apart, and there are others on here that will know the similarities, but it was interesting.

No worries about finishing and enjoying the fruits, my grade 11 metalwork teacher told me something that will stick with me forever. "Never give up on a dream for the time it will take to acomplish, that time will pass regardless". I know he didn't make it up but that was the 1st time I heard it and it stuck. As for the tan, I saw a car t-shirt that said it best, " I thought i was tanned turns out I'm just dirty"

I'm planning to make it just a nice driver. I have already put disc brakes on the front (I've posted how I did that)and have put in a more modern rear axle. I plan on keeping the old six or finding a bigger six. The overdrive might stay if not I may try to install a t5 and pass the od on to someone who needs it. I'm not a real fan of the stock dash and my guages are in really bad shape so I'll modify it. (I'm still looking at that part) . I have a set of 39 plymouth tail lights I'll put on it(I like the tear drop shape) and a trunk brake light emblem off a 46 plymouth sedan that I'm going to modify to house a license plate lightand then smooth off the trunk a bit. I'm hoping when the car is done it'll still retain a fairly stock plymouth look to all except plymouth owners that will be able to see what I've done. My car was really rusty when I got it (I've replace the entire floor from the firewall to the trunk lid plus both rockers and tailpan) so I'm not afraid to personalize it a bit. I still have a lot of sheet metal to patch including driprails both sides lower doors bothsides lower rear fenders( you gussed it) both sides so it will be awhile before it sees the road again and that will be the first time I have driven it so I'm not sure what to expect.

How do you ever decide which one to drive? I'm going to stick to two, Any more than that and by the I decided it would be dark:D

What a neat bunch of cars! That show could take place anywhere in North America and those cars wouldn't be out of place. I can't imagine how much harder and more expensive it is to build hot rods there. Shipping parts from the US to Canada is sometimes hard enough.

I like the Hamb also, but rarely post there. I mainly use the search there and check the new posts. I'm pretty new at forums and it's more comfortable here and there's less of a chance of being hacked down. I'm sure there's mostly a lot of good helpful car guys there and just few guys with an attitude or something to prove.

It seems like plymouth must have made quite a few 2 door wagons as this is the third or fourth I've seen recently and I'm not sure if I can't remember seeing a 4 door. Either that or nobody bothered keeping a 4 door.

A lot of nice cars there. Thanks

Looks good. Is that an transmission adapter from wilcap?

Yes the car has overdrive. The shifter seems to have a cable that changes between reverse/first and second/thrid ranges but I bought the car as a basket case so I haven't driven it. I want to keep a flat six in the car but I may put in a T5 and pass the od on to a restorer that needs it more than me. Poking around the car a little more this morning and noticed wires going to the wiper motor. Has this been swaped out too I thought they were only vacuum? Anyone know?

Hey guys, just looking for some info on what is what on my 40 plymouth sedan interior. This is the way the car came when I got it but I'm not sure what the owner's before me did and I haven't had much luck on my search. First is the the steering wheel on the car fits nicely but doesn't match any that are listed for a 40 plymouth on ebay. It's definately plymouth but maybe from a different model? Second the knobs on my dash are all the same but not like any I've seen on a sedan or coupe. They are round and chrome but have no markings that indicate what they do. I have seen only one other plymouth with the same ones but it was a convertible. Are these plymouth or aftermarket? Third the radio in my car fits the dash like it was meant to be there, the dash wasn't cut for it but speaker hangs on the firewall not in the dash and the dash plate is different from others that have a speaker in the dash. the radio says motorola on it. Is this a dealer installed option? I've learnt that my car was the 101st car built on the ontario line in 1940 but was wondering if the interior was put together with what they had laying around. Anybody have any guesses on these things I'm just interested in learning about my old plymouth. Thanks

YUP!!!

Greg you seem like you have a good understanding of how this works any knoweledge on how shipping parts to Canada works? Awhile back I bought some 40 plymouth grill bars( turned out to be for a 41) from a guy on ebay(private seller) I got charged $40USD for shipping from him and then got a $40USD cod importer charge. In the end $80 to ship grill bars that I paid $70 for.

I've only ever heard people say "I wish I had taken some pictures of __________!" so I say keep taking pictures. That's the great thing about a digital camera you don't have to print them all. I enjoyed them thanks

I've just started to work on lowering the front suspension on my 40 sedan and after searching here and on the Hamb decided to go about this by moving the lower spring pocket from the top of the a-arm to the bottom (I had a spare to experiment on) The car ended up being as low as I wanted but I'm afraid there isn't enough suspension travel only 4 or so inches measured at the spindle nut. While I like how the car looks I don't want to risk my family's safety as well as those around me by bottoming out the suspension and having it break on top of having a car that handles terribly. It's not too late to turn back, should I just instead cut some of the coil? A Drop spindle from fatman would be nice but the costs to Canada are just too much plus I've made my own disc brake set and don't know how they would work together.

Thanks, I must have 41 plymouth bars as the ends are not finished.

I just bought a few grill bars that I thought were for my 40 sedan but when I got them home and checked them they are longer and not curved enough. I know they're not off a 39 because that grill is way different, but was wondering if maybe they might be off a 41. Is there any difference in the grill bars between models in the 40 plymouth line say like sedan and coupe?

Kinda reminds me of the mastercard comercials: misc. disc brake parts.................$200 caliper bracket..........................4-5 hours Building your own disc brake kit without smashing a finger or bloodying a knuckle...................................PRICELESS:D I had heard from a lot of people saying to drill the nail when you pinch them like that but never have until this one I couldn't believe how much better it felt and right away

And finally the parts list. 2- 1972 monte carlo rotors 1- left caliper raybestos #slc116u 1- right caliper raybestos #slc117u 1- disc pad set d52-728 2- seals federal mogul #8705s 2- timken lm11949 2- timken lm11910 2- timken lm6748 2- timken lm67010 2- spacers 1 3/4"O.D X 1 1/4" I.D X 3/8" 2- Caliper brackets 3/8 plate 4- 3/8X1" grade 8 NF bolts 2- 1/2X 2 1/2" grade 8 NF bolts 2- 1/2X 3" grade 8 NF bolts 4- 1/2" lock washers 4- 1/2" NF nuts 1- package of band-aids:D

Here's some pictures of the bracket and spacer.

Hi guys, Just thought I would start a thread on how I did my disc brake conversion. After searching this forum, the HAMB and the web this is what I came up with. I'm cheap by nature and didn't want to be saddled with having to buy specialty hubs and rotors so everything I used was made by me or picked off the shelf at the local parts house. Total cost is just the cost of the parts themselves however if I was having to pay for my time to make the caliper brackets I think I would buy a ready made kit. In this setup I used a 1972 monte carlo rotor and gm mid-sized calipers ( think mid 70,s camaro), I wanted the chevy bolt pattern for the wheels I'm using and I'm just more familiar with chevy stuff (don't worry no chevy v8 planned here) The bracket was made using good old cardboard engineering and then transferred to 3/8 plate steel and cut with a palsma cutter and them ground and filled. I had to make it in two parts so that I could mount it behind the spindle to get the clearance I needed, I then bolted these two pieces together as well a tig welded them. I also had to make two spacers for the top two holes on the bracket because the back of the spindle is not flat. Once the brackets are made the only other machining needed is to make a spacer 1 3/4" O.D X 1 1/4" I.D X 3/8" to space the inner bearing over, I did this in about 15 minutes on the lathe. This is not the best way nor the easiest way to put dics brakes on your 40 plymouth just the way I did it.