40plyrod

I was going to say my wife was only tolerant but after thinking about it for a while I'd have to say she pretty supportive. She likes going to car shows and telling people about my truck, she likes cruising, she picks up parts for me, we got married and took our honeymoon in my old yellow truck and when I brought home the project family car she only suggested the kitchen be finished before I started working on the Plymouth. As for when I'm gone she would probably rather have the cash but I'm raising my 2 daughters to love old cars so they won't let her sell them;)

Nothing glamourous here. I'm a 3rd generation dairy farmer.

There's so much information listed here that a lot of the times with a simple search you can find your answer without having to ask it. Also I can read how to do something way faster than I can get it done on the old plymouth!

I DO!

Not sure how to paste a link but try this site http://t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

A good laugh before going to work. Thanks

When I bought my 40 sedan it didn't have any title or paper work. All I had to do was get a reciept from the guy I bought it from( It wasn't registered to him either) and take that to our local insurance office and give them the vin number off the door post plus $11 and they do a title search. If the car has been recently registered( within the last 30 or so years) you get a copy of the registration. You then have to send a registered letter to the person on the registration asking them to signed the enclosed transfer papers if it comes back unopened or dosen't come back after 30 days you go back to the insurance office and they write you a new registraition with your name on it, and you can then insure it and drive it right away or in my case work on it for the next however many years. No bonds or incumbances. On my dads 27 chrysler the title search didn't show anybody because it had been too long without being registered or had not been previously registered in the province so they send us a special form and now what happens is it has to be safety inspected when finnished and then we take the passed inspection certificate along with the special form to the insurance office and they will write my Dad a new registration with his name on it. I'm not sure what restrictions will be on that though. We are in Canada Though

Thanks for the file greg. So if I understand this right and the kick down circuitry is the main difference between the r7 and the r10 can the governor be removed and a kick down circuit be added to the r7?

Hi Sorry about another overdrive question. The 40 plymouth sedan I'm building has the original overdrive and looks to be complete but I haven't taken anything apart yet to see what it looks like inside( I'm still patching rust so my friends stop joking about needing a tetnus shot just to come near it!) I'm just gathering information about the overdrive on how it drives I've never driven it or rode it one. I've searched around this forum and the web and the things I read say that the r7 is simple(sounds good to me) but fussey and not very user friendly(not good) I'm just wondering what makes them fussey? Are they harder to shift? I know that I'm gonna keep the flathead but just trying to decide if I should start looking for a different transmission. Thanks

The perfect car for me is the chevy truck I take my girls for cruises in. It's just a nice driver and will never win any show trophies but seeing the smiles on my girls faces as we get waves and thumbs up are all the trophies I need. Someday the 40 plymouth I'm working on will do the same trick, it won't be a show winner either but we'll drive the wheels off it and enjoy it. I suggested to Mr warshaw that he not take car building so seriously because it wasn't about the best car, but after thinking about my comment I realized the great thing about this hobby is that it can be anything you want it to be. Some people are happy not owning a car and just going to shows, some can't own enough old cars, some want everything perfect, some are happy with a driver the point is it's up to us to decide that for ourselves and not be told by anyone else. Even though owning a flawless car isn't for me and would keep me up nights worring about it, if that's what Mr. Warshaw wants good on him. I'm only new to this forum (and to mopars) but it truly is a great resource I've learned a lot from it. The great thing about this forum and the people on it is their willingness to help out and share information and opinions but maybe we should keep in mind tolerence too. I know I will before I hit submit.

When I split the exhaust manifolds on my chevy pickup I used pieces of another manifold, cast rod and arc welded it. I didn't preheat the metal but did allow it to cool really slow. Some say to bury the manifold in a bucket of sand to slow the cooling. That was 10+ years ago and still no cracks.

Thanks to all. What makes the r7 fussier? I read on blueskies website that he too had a r7 but got rid of it because it wasn't very user friendly. In what way?

Michael I think your taking this car building too seriously. It's a hobbie have fun and enjoy it. It's not about the money or the best car It's about the friends you have and make along the way!

Thanks for the link but does anyone know the 3 gear od ratio for the R7?

Can anybody tell me what the 3 gear od ratio of the r7 transmission is and how that compares to the t5? (I've heard the t5 is .78 or .84) I'm having trouble searching because the search engine says t5 or r7 is too short. I'm contemplating swapping out my r7 for the t5 but right now I'm just collecting info. Is there a difference between a truck and car bellhousing and is one easier to adapt to? Is there a difference between a car and truck block?

How hard is it to drive the stock od? I basically saved this car from the crusher the floor had to be replaced from firewall to trunk lid as well as the rockers so I never got to drive it. There's a cable going to the transmission with a big chrome button on it that says OD. I don't see any switch or solenoid. Also is there a transmission yoke that would change it to a more modern driveshaft to mate to 10bolt posi rearend I want to install

Hi, I'm a newbie to this and not very smart with a computer so let me know if I do anything wrong. This is a great resource for the hobbist I have used the search many times so Thanks! I'm building a 40 plymouth sedan and have some questions. I was going for a mild custom look and was going to cut the front suspension out and replace it with a mustang II but after searching the forums I decided to keep it with upgrades to disc brakes and moving the upper shock mount(thanks again) My question or two or ten is about the transmission and engine. I've always wanted to keep the flathead six in it and seeing pictures of some of the ones built up here has reinforced that but what are the differences between the american and canadian motors(mines canadian)? Also what is a spitfire head I've never seen one, What were they on? About the transmission, my car is a factory overdrive car but I was thinking about switching to a t5 because I'm scared that the old overdrive won't be up to the task and parts my be hard to find what are your thoughts? George asche is too far away for a rebuild and t5s are fairly easy to get. What am I looking for with regards to a t5? The wilcap adapter is a little pricey but is that the easiest way to adapt one? I'll stop asking questions now I'm sure you've heard enough. Thanks