Adam H P15 D30

Yeah, I got busted at the HAMB for my Mustang II in my 56 F100... The title of this forum explicitly includes modified vehicles so don't worry about getting shown the door.

I hotrod everything I touch. Nothing is safe from the torch in my garage... But, I am having second thoughts about swapping the 440 into my 49 so it is safe for now...

My clock has been working on 12v - ground for years now. All the points do is wind the clock

Measure from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, not flanges. While I don't have the measurement you need, I used an 8" form a 64 Falcon and it was slightly narrower. This was on my my 49 Wayfarer which sits on a Plymouth chassis.

Car can sit for months and have a firm pedal, I have found no need for any RP valves. I do have an 8" Ford rear with more modern drum brakes. It could use an adjustable valve in the rear circuit, they will lock up first but barely.

I use the stock one with the internal check valve removed

I did that more than 6 years ago using a GM ignition module and it has been trouble free but you must have 12v. Petronix, not so trouble free...

Here is the only picture I can find. You can see the links inboard of the frame. Frame was narrowed 4" on each side

I used the factory Explorer stabilizer bar and links on my 47. Sorry, I don't have a picture.

Bringing this back from the DEAD..... Put a few thousand miles on it since the work and I have to say they have been trouble free and fun for the most part. That said, the time of the flathead is coming to an end this winter. Nothing wrong but I enjoy hotrods and seem to drive the V8 stuff a lot more, plus it's just time for a change... I will have the engine/trans for sale here first sometime later this year or early 2025. Maybe I'll retitle this thread again or start a new one or nothing but it's getting a 440. Go big or go home?

It's amazing what Rustoleum paint can look like when sprayed with hardener and urethane clear to give the UV protection

Save the gl1 for the transmission and just use a modern gl5 90wt oil for the rear.

I use undercoating inside the fenders only to prevent rock damage visible on the shiny side, applied over paint. Floor pans get painted with enamel with no undercoating. Sound deadener gets installed inside only after painting the metal.

FYI, I've had 6v horns on 12v in 2 of my hotrods for years. No problem and nice and loud!

Pretty sure these are the same size a early HEMI blocks. Hot Heads and others sell screw in core plugs for the issues I mentioned early in this thread. Easily installed in the car.