vintage6t

Looks like a solid car https://offerup.com/item/detail/1619622172

I used to have a Hot Rod 34 Hudson coupe. Built 400 SBC. The stock frame was strengthened by boxing it from the front horns to the just past the firewall. That was sufficient for the engine's HP. My point is it is probably simpler to build off the stock frame. Not sure what you plan in terms of building the Hemi but you probably have to account for weight more than HP.

Smaller is better than larger. Smaller has the possibility of trimming the lip to fit the wheel.

Hardware store. I had a similar leak in the speed control for the 3 point lift on my tractor. Long story short - after unsuccesfully trying to obtain a very expensive rebuild kit, a hardware bought oring of the proper size fixed the leak. This cost less than a dollar and has been in service for many years.

On the HAMB https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/vintage-1949-dodge-18-steering-wheel-original-deco-art.1298707/

Just speculation on my part but is the erratic drops due to the needle valve in the carb opening? Seems like there would be a sudden but temporary drop in pressure when that occurs.

Hydraulic lockup.

Nice find on the tools. I lived in that area in the mid 80s, including Macungie for a year. That was always such a great show and glad to see it still is. Beautiful area with always so much to do. Next year stay for a few days if you can and attend Musikfest in Bethlehem. Another great event.

Or, just remove the top of he carb and crank the engine without starting it. The fuel pump will fill the bowl to the set level.

Nice job! I can appreciate all of your effort because I'm essentailly doing the same thing to a 50 Desoto convertible. Same goal of building a nice cruiser, not a race car. Mopar 383, 727 auto, 2000 Explorer disc rearend. Four wheel disc brakes. Also keeping the original steering box and linkage. The Desoto is very similar to your car so your engine compartment and so are the challenges of fitting a Mopar with much the same solutions as yours. To maximize passenger room I was more conservative with the firewall and only cut pockets for the heads. I dropped the engine a little lower with a truck pan and remote oil filter. One thing I did to get space for the starter was to fabricate a 1/2" steel spacer that I inserted between the the steering box and its frame mount. That moved the pitman arm over the the left, away from the starter by a 1/2". I also offset my engine to the right around 2". One limitation with a convertible is that it's an X frame with a closed steel tunnel in the center that the drive shaft goes through. That was a problem with the Explorer rearend due to the rear's pinion being offset about 3" to the right. Driveshaft hit the side of the frame tunnel. To solve this, I centered the rear's pinion, actually it's now offset about 1/2" to the left. To center I basically cut the axle tubes at a specific length and swapped them side to side. That allowed the axles to be swapped. Rearend is the same overall length but the pinion is now more centered.

Obviously the answer is as stated above. This thread did remind me of an interesting Hagerty article I read a few months back on the history of Ford model A based air compressor conversions. https://www.hagerty.com/media/automotive-history/when-america-reinvented-a-ford-to-get-stuff-done/

Loss of power and running hot. Sounds like your engine may be running lean. I'd read the plugs and also check around the carb and manifold for a vacuum leak. Maybe try backing off the timing a bit to see if that makes a difference in power.

Maybe start with something easy, like lubricating the latch, inside and out. For the inside, roll down the window, look inside to see the latch mechanism and soak it with a spray lube. Then work the latch a bunch of times to see if things loosen up.

All I can tell you is that if you use linseed oil, don't just toss the applicator in the trash. Linseed soaked items such as rags can spontaneously combust as they dry.

I have a 41 Plymouth Convertible. From memory, at least for the 41, the vacuum for the top is tapped right into the manifold. Also it would seem the orifice diameter seems to be much too small to operate the top. If I get a chance, I'll post a pic later.

If it was on the intake manifold, I'd guess a vacuum tap for some type of aftermarket vacuum operated accessory. For mounting, sandwiched between the intake's carb mounting flange and carb? According to this ebay listing it's an aftermarket water temp sending unit. That would imply it would sandwich between the thermostat housing and block. I don't think temp sending unit is correct. https://www.ebay.com/itm/304805154239?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WOmHyr2iS56&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=5KNwZHdaT5K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Soak the threads with penetrating oil. Put the flare wrench on the nut. Then visegrips around the flair wrench jaws to keep them from flexing. Instead of gradual force, use hard abrupt force when turning the wrench. That should break the not loose.

Not to hijack this thread but here's a set of see-through tinted interior visors that another member had made. Pretty nice and look period correct.

Another good concoction is a mix of diesel, atf and a shot of acetone. The main idea of the acetone besides being a powerful solvent is that it will thin the liquid for improved penetration and then quickly evaporate.

Nice work. It will be interesting to see how well the spring repair lasts. I would think the welded point is probably stronger than the rest of the spring, so my guess is a good long time.

They are a simple shape, so even as a novice you can probably create a suitable design yourself. Try Tinkercad https://www.tinkercad.com/ It's a very simple web based cad program. The basics are that you select a geometric shape and then add and subtract shapes to it. That includes lettering as well. May take a few hours to get the hang of it but it has a fast learning curve. I believe there's a Tinkercad forum as well. Once you have your design you can download an STL file. Load the STL into Slicr or similar program to set your print parameters. Then from Slicr you can create a gcode file for printing. First try some simple designs and print them as described above. It's worth the effort as you'll get a lot more utility from your printer.

I would caution installing a glass fuel filter after the fuel pump and in the engine bay. Glass can crack or break, then you're squirting gas all over your hot engine. IMO a filter before the fuel pump inlet is sufficient. Unless your fuel pump is self-destructing there really isn't anything between the pump and carb that will introduce debris in the system.

Probably not strong enough. The radio is relatively heavy. I'd guess the bracket 1/16" to 1/8" thick as it's the primary means of securing the radio to the dash.

One thing that can keep the top plate from mating is the clip that holds the float pin in. Hard to describe but the clip has a tang on each side of its open end. The tangs have to slide all the way down in the channels cast into the carb. If not all the way down the top of the clip will be above the carb bowl lip and will prevent the top plate from seating on the lip.

Yup. Almost lost my F250 the same way. Parked in my driveway, one of the kids noticed the headlights were on. I went out side and smelled something burning under the hood. Luckily I was able to quickly disconnect the battery. Probably just seconds or minutes from the truck going up in flames. Why were the headlights on? Because the wiring harness as in the process of completely melting down. The culprit, the switch Sniper is referring too. One insurance claim and a completely new underhood wiring harness later it was fixed. In general pressure switches are problematic, just change to a mechanical and be done with it.