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Everything posted by vintage6t

  1. Not saying a weld wont work but I'd be worried about the uneven surface of a weld concentrating pressure on a small single spot of the cam lobe that drives the pump possibly scarring the lobe or wearing it unevenly. In other words you no longer have to smooth surfaces interfacing with each other over area they were designed to operate with.
  2. I'd dismantle the pump and make sure there is no rust or other residue from the tank keeping the valve partially open. Agree with clogged fuel line as mentioned above but sounds like you already bypassed that. One last thought, do you have the correct gasket between the pump and block? If for some reason the gasket is too thick it will move the arm away from the cam, effectively shortening the throw.
  3. Don't know anything about it but found this link with a Google search. Hope it helps. HPOF Oh and congratulations.
  4. Checkout mid-30s Terraplanes. I think they are very similar.
  5. If you decide to start from scratch and use something like an ez-wire kit make sure it is compatible your car's voltage. In other words if your car is still 6 volts, you need a kit with wires sized for a 6 volt system. The wires on a 12 volt kit will be undersized in terms of carrying the current for 6 volt circuits.
  6. If you change to 12v , battery in the trunk would be ok, but you'll need a large gauge cable, like a welding cable to the starter. With 6v may the trunk might be problematic because you'll need a very large gauge cable to avoid dropping the voltage too much. My 41 Plymouth has the battery king of tucked under the front fender. I'm wondering if you can do the same. 12v conversion is pretty straight forward. Don't think you need a lot, but will need 12v bulbs, generator, etc. and possibly 12v to 6v reducers for some of the guages. Lots of info on the net.
  7. Similar to the trunk lock on my Desoto. Disassemble as mentioned here by loosening the pressed keeper. Put back together by punching the keeper in the same place where it was originally presssed or drill a small hole through ther keeper and square rod and put a cotter pin through it.
  8. Also make sure the crank snout is clean w/o surface rust as well as the inside of the pulley hub. Lubricate those two surfaces too.
  9. Do you have the specific dimensions of the A and B pulleys? I'm obviously running an A on my 41 and want to see if maybe the pulley was changed to a B. Either way it's been on the car for many years and works fine.
  10. I checked the number on my 41 and it is a GDZ-4801-A, at least that the tag on the body, the car was restored in 1970's so don't know if it is original or not (most likely it is) but with the proper pulley. The attached picks are of the tag, how it lines up with the other engine pulleys and a measurement from the front pulley edge to the generator end plate edge about 1-5/16". I also looked through my stack of generators but all newer mostly GGE or something like that and probably from 49/50 Desotos but not sure.
  11. BTW - I have a 41 plymouth as well. I'll try to get the generator number off of it to confirm and maybe a measurement of the pulley for you. I also have a stack of generators and Ill see if I have a B that could at least be used as a core. I'll post back later.
  12. I found this info on a discussion of military jeep generators, different model but I would assume the letter to have the same meaning. Autolite generator discussion "The letter designation at the end of the four digit GEG number indicates the PULLEY that was attached to it at the Autolite factory...and the Dodge pulley is a different length which, if used on the jeep, will cause the fan belt to be out of alignment to the crank and water pump! If you found a 5001, 5002 or even a 5101 with NO LETTER at the end of the number that would indicate it was built as a REPLACEMENT without a pulley attached to it at the factory!"
  13. Even if not, with a single res system you might as well replace the rubber hoses while you're at it.
  14. A little off topic but my Rambler uses a head bolt like that for the battery ground cable connection.
  15. Don't know for sure but it's probably denatured alcohol which will remove moisture from the system by absorbing it and then evaporating . Seeing that it's not a life critical system like brakes, you could probably just flush with enough ATF to effectively remove/dilute the brake fluid and moisture from the system. BTW - here is link to a film strip on servicing convertible tops from the 1950 Chrysler Master Service Technician Conference. Watched it the other day and there are some good tidbits regarding filling the system and so on: MTSC Convertible Tops
  16. I have a carb kit that has both in it. The kit is a NOS Bendix P&D Karb-Kit K-3021B. The application I think may be different than yours, according to the instructions in the kit it is for BB Models E7L1,L2,L3, and L4. 1949-1950 Chrysler Fluid drive and M6 Trans. The picture is of the "round" shaft plunger that is in the kit. Note the slot at the end of the shaft. If this will work for you let me know.
  17. And heat the head around the outside of the hole when trying to extract it as well. The heat will make the hole expand helping to break things loose.
  18. Looks like what I have is from earlier starters with an engagement/solenoid mechanism on the outside body. The studs heads are all flat w/o the ears that yours shows in the picture. Also the diameter of most of what I have seems to be bigger than yours. If you think one with a flat head will work give me some measurements and I'll be glad to send you one if I have one the same size.
  19. I have a bunch of starters and parts. I'll look today. They are probably all the same but is there a tag with the model number of the starter itself?
  20. Here is a link to the spring page of the parts book they have online at imperialclub.com : Spring Parts List
  21. IRC the Explorer rears are offset to the passenger side, meaning two different axle tube lengths. I'm pretty sure a common way to shorten them is to get a second rear and replace the long axle tube with another short one from the second rear. The tubes are just plug welded into the center housing. This also centers the housing. Offhand I forget the specific width shorted and not. I have one I plan on putting in a 50 Desoto using the original length and offset. Way back when I measured for it, it was only a fraction of an inch shorter than the original Mopar rear on both sides. One reason I'm using as is is because of the close match to the original length and the 383 Mopar BB I'm putting in the car is offset to the passenger side as well. Any google search about Explorer axles will provide much more detail on length and shortening methods. Also as mentioned above the big deal with the Explorer rears is the 31 spline axle vs. 28.
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