vintage6t
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Everything posted by vintage6t
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Converting P15 drum/drum brakes to Dual-Chamber Master Cylinder
vintage6t replied to Sam Buchanan's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I believe a 1" master will move less fluid than a 1-1/8 master and it's not proportional either. A 1" will produce higher pressure though. Given that your wheel cylinders may not be extending all the way and giving proper pedal feel. You may be able to adjust the brakes out to get the pedal but the pads will probably be dragging hard on the drums when done. Even if that works the brakes might be very touchy. -
I'd try a little lube like wd40 or even soak the pedal in hot water to soften it and then a little dish soap as lube when installing.
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I saw one for sale on the HAMB the other day: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1142201/
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Boy that is really something, fantastic job on the restoration!
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I know for Fords of the same vintage it is common to use an Ford Aerostar spring to lower and maintain handling. Here is one post from this site using the same application on a Mopar. Aerostar Spring
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I guess you could leave the built in 2lb valve to the front disks. For the rear drums though I don't think you'll get additive pressure if you use two valves in line. You will have 2lbs pressure on the input side of the external 10lbs valve instead of 0lbs without the built in valve. I'm not positive but it seems to me this will subtract from the 10lb output rating of the external valve making it effectively 8lbs or less. In other words, the 2lb valve up stream from the 10lb valve may try to hold the 10lb valve partially "open". This of course assuredly MC has built in valves in the first place and that they are both 2lbs meaning the original MC application is for a 4 wheel disk system.
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Does this look like the pulley you need? If so PM me.
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I think plastic chrome interior trim used a vacuum deposition process. I did also see a while back on an episode of My Classic Car a company that used a metallized substrate and then regular chrome plating on plastic and fiberglass exterior parts such as bumpers.
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Also try to match the number on the title to the engine number. That was common practice in a number of states. My 41 is titled this way.
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I would guess that the relatively small compressor used for air bags would have a hard time keeping up with the constant drain of air caused by the wiper motor. Not sure the compressor is made for constant duty of running the wipers either so even if it could deliver the proper rate of air you might burn out it's motor when using for long periods of time. Also if your wipers don't work well with vacuum your wiper motor probably needs rebuilding and its not going to work much better with air.
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Another tip on using a puller is first to put penetrating oil between the hub and shaft. Also if applying pressure via a puller does not get the wheel to start coming off then with pressure applied with the puller give the center bolt of the puller a good wack with a hammer, that sometimes causes the wheel to "pop" off the shaft.
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If your high beam indicator works, then I'd make sure the grounds at the headlight buckets themselves are good. Also check for voltage at the buckets on the black and red wires at the headlights, which is high and low beam voltage from the foot dimmer switch. There should also be voltage at the H terminal (yellow wire that feeds the foot dimmer) of the headlight switch when the switch is on. Missing voltage at any of those points will tell you there is a break (broken wire, bad switch) before that point.
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Agree you should be able to find one off the shelf at the auto parts store. If not, my local True Value hardware store has a good selection of springs, so you might try one of those stores as well.
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Don't know off hand but I have some NOS gaskets I can measure tomorrow and post back.
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I'd also check your float level again and make sure it's not too high leading to the rich condition you describe. Additionally for the off idle stumble make sure there is no vacuum leak at the carb base by spraying some carb cleaner around it, there should be no change in idle.
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They look very similar to a typical clutch return spring. As a replacement I'd try to match one with something you'd find in an aftermarket multi-spring pack. Also a good hardware store will carry a whole section of replacement springs, could probably find something close there..
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If you're looking for leather I had a very good experience buying from these guys, including a no hassle return of an extra hide. http://www.waterhouseleather.com
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You can pretty easily do the same setup with a modern micro switch and 6 volt panel lamp. Something like this https://www.todaycomponents.com/omron-ss-5gl13-switcher.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI99bbyun32wIVSrHtCh25yAzlEAQYCyABEgJ0FvD_BwE
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Here's a pic of one copied from a HAMB discussion. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/1105080/
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On The Town was also on TMC last night. They cruise all over NYC in a Desoto Skyview cab.
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You can put some beads of weld on the broken face to make it "longer". This will provide a larger area for a vice-grip or even to then weld a nut onto the stub. The heat from welding also creates the heat cycle as mentioned above which is key to this technique as well.
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For a durable finish you could always blasted and powder coat them. Either professionally or do it yourself. I did a set for my 54 F100 myself and they came out pretty good.
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If you do need a square solenoid PM me, I have a few of them and round ones as well.
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Thanks for the update, I hope that does solve it. BTW - if it is a dirt issue, you may find you have to clean the bowl of your carburetor as well.
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Could also be rust or other sediment in your gas tank clogging the pickup when under suction and then releasing back into the tank once parked. Thus unclogging itself until started and running again for a while.
