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randroid

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Everything posted by randroid

  1. koderboy, Welcome to the forum. I have not heard of anyone trying to swap frames but it sounds like a great project. What I have heard is rear ends being swapped but with judicious application of a guessing stick you could probably figure out how close you could come. Might be better off trying to replace both axle housings rather than the entire frame but I'm just guessing. With such an unique idea I'm sure you'll get lots of suggestions from those more knowledgeable than I. #1 rule around here is that it's your car and your money and you may do with it whatever you please. In example, no P-15 was ever offered with a two-tone paint job but that's what I have planned for mine and nobody has ever come down on me for it. Enjoy! -Randy
  2. Raceandoval, Not much to add other than one member suggested painting the back side of the dash a bright color to make everything easier to see next time you're under it. I used a bright yellow because that's what I had and it made all the difference. -Randy
  3. Morson, The one from the purple car, which I think is the Dodge; the third picture, and I meant the temp gauge, not oil. I don't know what your access to those cars is, but that entire instrument panel is something somebody here might want. It may cost me the temp gauge by saying something about it but we're all in this together from my point of view. -Randy
  4. Morson, I want that oil pressure gauge if it will fit a P-15. Anybody know of its compatibility? I bought my OD from Neil Riddle for $400+$100 shipping. Granted that was almost 20 years ago, but the clown on ebay is in Disneyland with his price. -Randy
  5. PF, I don't know for certain myself, but the first thing I would try is right-clicking on the picture to bring up "properties" and see if it can be down-sized from there. If that doesn't work then you just saved me from being the one who has to ask. -Randy
  6. Terry, I can't help you with the wiper motor connections, but from personal experience I can tell you that unless you want to mount the motor way off to one side you will loose the ability to open the cowl vent because the motor will be in the way of the linkage. You might want to consider having the vacuum motor rebuilt instead. If you are determined to have electrics then I have a 6v motor from a '51 Dodge I'll let go of but seriously consider keeping the vacuums. -Randy
  7. Tharlanjr, Welcome! If that carb has been open then don't expect the dead mice in it to cycle through it very smoothly. Count on rebuilding the carb but that's not difficult and you get to get your hands dirty. I would also change the oil but I'm anal that way. Good luck, although luck shouldn't be a factor. -Randy
  8. Don, My T&D meter is a cheapo-cheapo I needed to buy on the fly 30 years ago and I've never replaced it because it's accurate and has never quit. It doesn't care what voltage you're using nor does it give a whit about the polarity (hook the red wire to the hot side). Maybe in my next life I'll spend more money on one and worry about it more, lol. The vacuum meter is telling the tale, though, and is what you want to address. I'm assuming you're using the tube-type that sits on top of the carb and has a ball that floats inside it. These are great tools but you must realize they are the epitome of an analog meter in that what they measure flow only relative to themselves and because of this you must use only one for each set of carbs; if you set two meters on two carbs the readings would have nothing to do with each other. Use just one meter for both carbs because you're measuring fluid flow and you want to be able to compare the readings. What I've always done is get the engine running with both needle valves open the same number of turns, then used that as a base. From there it's simply bouncing back and forth between the two carbs until you get the same reading. This "simple" step can take a lot of tweaking to get right, as in you may spend more than your lunch hour doing it, but once you get it right on the money your car will thank you profusely. It is well worth the time and effort to do right and if you just can't get it right them perhaps the jets are the wrong size, or something obscure like that, but if the engine has ever run well before and the carbs aren't filled with crud they should reward you for the frustration this seemingly simple task has dumped on you. I'll offer a place for you to start because your rear carb is going along for the ride while your front carb is doing most of the work and they obviously need to be synchronized. I'd bet the rear carb has somehow gotten its needle shut down and the front carb has been opened; it's a common occurrence that sometimes can take years to happen and evades most of our notice. Getting both carbs synched is where the vacuum meter becomes invaluable. This thread was originally about a T&D meter and mine is a Car Quest #GPE 30419, although I don't necessarily feel you should make a great effort to match the numbers exactly because they're all made on the same foreign assembly line. I tried to keep this reply simple but if you want me to go into greater detail on anything I'm happy to babble. -Randy
  9. '48, I enjoy seeing pictures of our cars when they were new, and thanks for posting that, but what I enjoy every bit as much are the pictures of those art-deco trucks. What an influence on the era. -Randy
  10. Chris, Happy birthday, young fellow! -Randy
  11. Don, I'm still waiting for the "Sarcasm" font. -Randy
  12. Gents, Ohm's Law = We should all meditate for our answers. -Randy
  13. Chad, Nowhere near Gunnison, although I have loose ties to Crested Butte. We're now living in the valley just south of Ft. Collins. -Randy
  14. gunnibronco, I'm not sure how I missed you earlier posts but I guess it doesn't matter. Only thing I was going to add was that I lived in Estes Park (also at 8,000') for 20 years and the 218 in my '48 P-15 never faltered pulling any hills I aimed it up. It was my daily driver for about ten years and never let me down. You're largely on your own so far as parts are concerned but I feel some of your pain and may be able to help a little. We have marvelous wrecking yard in Windsor (Miller's, I'll find their number if you're interested) and if you need a part I could conceivably pull it for you and have it waiting or ship it to you. PM me and let me know if I can help. -Randy
  15. Gents, I've never used George Asche's products but from the accolades he receives here I would feel quite safe doing so. If you're wanting to fab your own an often over-looked source of parts is a hobby shop that specializes in radio control stuff. Some model aircraft are being made so large that the ball joints, bearings, etc, have become industrial strength. -Randy
  16. victoredaye, Looking at the cars you listed I can be fairly safe saying you don't have a turn signal indicator on the dash. Turn signals were an aftermarket item for P-15s, and the only light you have is up by the windshield wiper knob, and that is the high beam indicator. This is not to say that lights of one function or another weren't installed at a later date, but you're on your own with those. -Randy
  17. Gents, A visor would make it appear more balanced. -Randy
  18. Don, I've been keeping my nose out of this so far but the time has come to speak my piece: Dyslexics of the world UNTIE! I've been keeping my nose out of this so far but the time has come to speak my peace: You should agonize over it longer. -Randy
  19. Bryan, Yes, you need vacuum advance or something just like it because you're burning gasoline. When the engine gets turning fast the gas still burns at basically the same rate as it always does so it needs a head start catching fire in order to give maximun push to the top of the piston at the right time. As the engine speed varies the VA varies the spark along with it. -Randy
  20. Bob, Darn it, you weren't supposed to tell him. Now where am I supposed to find a brace? -Randy
  21. OldDad, On the ends of the brace are holes for small bolts. On the hinges are corresponding threaded holes where the bolts attach. It is my understanding that some hinges do not have these threaded holes and if such is the case for your hinges your best bet would be for you to send the brace to me because I have not been able to find one in twenty years of searching. I have seen pictures of how the center support mounts to the brace and the center of the hood but cannot explain it well without having a picture to show you. It goes vertically from the center of the brace to the center of the hood with an adjustment in its middle to set the height. Sorry for the spelling errors but I have yet to find a spell checker that works with the new forum format. -Randy
  22. Frankie, That looks like a story I'd like to follow. Any idea if progress has begun on the car? -Randy
  23. Cass, I don't know the answer but I think it's safe to assume that the format of the attachment might play a role. It isn't uncommon for me to need to right-click an attachment to open it, and that's been true in both Widdows and Ubuntu, so I don't give it a second thought. -Randy
  24. Fred, An adage in the used car business is "there's a seat for every a$$hole". Get what makes you satisfied or park it in Ed's front yard where the market may be stronger. I guess the determining factor will be how much of a hurry you're in to sell it but I'm sure nobody's more sorry to see it go than you. May we all assume you'll still haunt these pages? I hope so. -Randy
  25. Gents, Growing older (but not necessarily up) in a USMC pilot's family we swapped sides of the map a minimum of once every 18 months, usually more often than that, and we did it in the cars of the day. The first one I remember distinctly was in 1952 and we drove our '49 Chevy wagon from SoCal to Norfolk and the only modification made to it was a hole drilled in the floor in the rear of the car with a funnel attatched to it so my two brothers and I wouldn't be asking to stop every twenty minutes. The point is, those steel-dashboard, no-seat belt, sans air bag vehicles made the numerous trips without a hitch even though we had no GPS and the AM radios took fifteen seconds to warm up. I get the same feelings of trepidation today when I take an unproven car on the road the first time but unless you've taken the "that's good enough" approach to maintenance and repair you should expect no hassles. I'm a great proponent of carrying spare parts and I'm thankful for the knowledge I've gained to feel confident being able to diagnose a problem, but I don't expect problems and rarely have them. Relax and enjoy the ride. -Randy
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