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I have never tried this and do not necessarily endorse it, but a friend in Fairbanks told me that since 5 wt. oil isn't always thin enough they add kerosene. It doesn't strike me that anything you'd be willing to run in the engine would be so strong as to instantly desolve the crub, but rather it would slowly start to take stuff from the top because that's how things erode. With that in mind I would feel comfortable running an additive and running the engine long enough to bring it to temp. I wouldn't run it much longer that that but you'll get some of whatever solvent you use into the oil galleys, etc., so when you eventually take it apart the job should be easier. One other thought; if you have a metal oil drain pan and a large funnel and some gloves, how about when to drain the hot oil strain it back into the engine thru some muslin in the funnel and back into the engine. It will hit the pan with more turbulence that it wouldn't otherwise get and should knock loose more crud. If you have more new oil than common sense you could theoretically keep changing the oil mixture until everything sparkles inside. -Randy (Who believes the common sense level of everyone in this forum is high enough to see some humor in this.)

Opps, sorry about the wrong link to the Solex, but it's been awhile since I downloaded it. The above link works. It's a .pdf document (it requires Acrobat) and rather lengthy but the information in it is easy to find. The Solex on my Bug was a walk in the park to tune, but I'm not promoting Sollex so much as I am offerring some pertinant information that I think will be useful. -Randy

Ladies & Gents, I've been noticing a number of posts lately about what size jets to use with how many carbs so if I never post another viable word to this forum let me present this: www.solex.com Along with a '48 P-15 I also play with a '67 VW Bug. It's carb went into the toilet and after I'd scratched the heads of the local old hippies who still wrench on them I eventually bought a rebuildable carb, but not before I found the above site. Not too many WPC vehicles use Solex carbs but if you go into their section named "Selection and Tuning of the Carburetor" you will find the physics of why a carb is jetted the way it is and will give you the exact answers you need if you know your exact questions. The math isn't hard, I guess, and you'll have a basis for your best carb\jet combo. -Randy

Lou, Along with my '48 P-15 I also play with VWs, and the reason you don't see ballast resistors in old Bugs is because Bosche built them into some of their coils. As Pete suggested, check the specs but I think it wouldn't be difficult to do it with a "purty-near" stock-looking coil. -Randy

John, I don't know what it's for but I've had the same question for years and what I've comforted myself with is that it's in there for a reason. Obviously a baffle that WPC installed for some reason, and since they earped-up the added expense I can only think it was a good reason and I'd install something like it (unless you get more knowlegeale advise to the contrary). Thing is, WPC used a bunch of surplus WWII parts on our cars so maybe it doesn't have a purpose for civilian driving. In example, the drain plug on the gas tank of a P-15 was a special "tamper-proof" plug used on military vehicles to prevent the enemy from sneaking in and draining whatever the plug was, well, plugging. I'm going to follow this thread 'cause I'd like to find out, too. -Randy

Gents, Finally shovelled enough snow away from my '48 P-15 to reinstall the rebuilt carb and thought I'd check the heat riser while I'm there. It has never had a spring but moves freely; problem is I can't see it so I don't know which way to turn it to make it open. If I had a lick of sense I'd simply buy a new spring (which I'll eventually do) but this is just to get me started. Along with rebuilding the carb I also converted the air cleaner to accept a paper insert, but before reinstalling it I'd like to know what sort of gasket goes between the A\C and the carb. Up to now I've been using a piece of innertube rubber, which works well, but is there a better fix? As always, thanks for your feedback. -Randy

Bob, I enjoy reading about other people's problems and how they fixed them; I'm about to put "PIGIRON" back on the road and it helps my morale a bunch to know I'm not the only one running into walls because it helps me see the light at the end of the tunnel. I used my '48 4d SD as a daily driver for about eight years before I parked it for some minor repairs two years ago, and I have no doubt everybody on this forum knows where I'm going with this so I shan't interate. I miss rolling down the road in a car most drivers today couldn't even figure out how to start, sitting on an over-stuffed couch in front of a roaring fire when the heater's running and cruising in OD at 65 mph getting better than 20 mpg. There isn't much glory in driving old iron when you think that perhaps a Dodge Charger Daytona might not have cost us a hell of a lot more, but the pure satisfaction is intangible. Continue to keep us posted, please. -Randy

Andy B. has the springs @ $6 each and I just ordered them. I'll get the brake lines at NAPA as soon as enough snow melts for me to climb under and measure them (like, next May?). Thanks again, Gents. -Randy

Gents, I have been having problems with my front brakes, too, and have been following your posts lately with great interest. I have learned more places to look for problems than I wanted to, but since these are the brakes I'm going to check-out everything. Thank you all very much for the input. I do have a few questions about a few of the things mentioned: 1. Is it possible to clean the ports in the MC without removing it? I've pulled it twice in the last eighteen years and don't want to do it again, ever. 2. My brake return springs are not original but I'd like them to be. The OM stopped producing them during the Eisenhower administration and any I've found in the local boneyards are broken. Know of a source? 3. You've convinced me to replace all the lines and I know how to do it, but I'd rather not pay NAPA's prices. Again, know of a source? I'll stop here to contemplate the 3' of snow we've gotten in the last two weeks. Thanks again. -Randy

Because we rent and have a one-car garage my solution is to use one of those itty-bitty rinky-dink space heaters. I aim it at what I want to work on and in just a few minutes the area is toasty. The fan keeps me and my tools warm without bothering to warm the entire garage. If I owned a real garage or shop I'd probably go a different route, but for now it serves me very well at a minimal cost. -Randy

The torque for a bolt is generally about 70% of its dry shear strength, but you must be aware that any lubricant applied to those threads (pipe sealant, Loc-Tite, etc.) will allow them to reach that 70% mark at a lower reading on your tourque wrench. I think those lubricants are viable and I use them myself but be aware that they will change the settings. Last time I re-installed my head was after I'd installed my OD tranny and I had several headbolts with threads in their slightly enlongated heads, and it didn't take me long to figure out that these bolts were meant to hold the bracket that carries the OT ignition\selonoid switch. If you have bolts like those I mentioned (I think there are three of them but I'm not going to shovel two feet of snow off the hood to count noses) and plan on installing one of those brackets you might want to consider placement of the bolts accordingly. -Randy

He-he, sorry, gents, but this post was begging to be written. Sometimes there's no accounting for poor taste. -Randy

I ran an 8 volt battery for awhile knowing it wouldn't tax the charging system while having more amps for the starter on a cold Colorado morning. I really liked the setup but it burned-out headlamps faster than the benefits of quick starting paid for the lights. My first best guess. -Randy

I once removed my pan ('48 SD 4-D) with the engine in the car and without dropping any of the steering linkage. You've got to hold your mouth just right but it isn't a difficult job. -Randy

So far as WW motors are concerned, if you reverse the polarity the motor should run in reverse. Thing is, with WW how would you know? Lights not only don't give a fetid pair of Dingo's kidneys what the polarity might be, it matters not a whit to them if it's AC or DC. There were discussions lately on this topic concerning fuel and amp gauges and what my meager memory brings to this point is that you have few cares along those lines. Since the temp gauge is mechanical and regularly snubs electrical circuits as soft and easily broken you should pretty much have the rest of it covered. Should you ever have another question please don't hesitate to ask. I am always eager to share my opinions and advice regardless of how erroneous, misleading, or purely hypocriphal they might be. Merry Christmas to all. I had fun writing this. -Randy

Joe, I bought mine in perfect working condition ten years ago from Neil Riddle in Seattle. As I recall, it cost around $450, including shipping and all the extra goodies you need to make it work. Neil has always been a pleasurable person with whom to deal and I'll buy from him first anytime I need something I can't get locally. Last I heard he doesn't have a web site; hell, last I heard he doesn't accept credit cards, but I deal in a cash business, too, and won't question his motives. Give him a call, he'll give you a price, and when your check clears he'll ship your goodies. (206) 285-6534. -Randy

Gents, Thanks to your input I was able to find a rebuild kit for my Carter B&B, and now for a real poser in search of an easy answer: I hated vaccuum wipers when all I had to wipe-off was a little rain, and moving to a locale that includes snow hasn't improved my opinion of them. To this end I swiped the 6v pg wiper motor assembly from a '51 Dodge and Gerry-rigged it under the cowl. Worked like a champ for a few strokes then one or the other arm would pop-off its ball joint. Ball joints are made to allow for a little mis-alignment but I tried shimming it with washers to get it aligned on all axis to no avail. I have reinstalled the vaccuum swipes until I can figure out how to make the electric unit fit. Has anybody done a swap like this in the past? I'm thinking that perhaps behind the glove box with alterred actuating arms might be the answer, but before I start drilling holes in the firewall I need a new place to start. I can measure the angle of the wiper posts and figure a way to go from there but aligning everything correctly the first time is my goal. I have more thoughts on how I could accompplish the job and I will eventually figure it out, but I'd prefer to not spend the time reinventing the wheel if one of you has already done it. Thanks, -Randy

Gents, After a year of sitting on blocks while I finished a '67 Bug for my Lady Wife I'm ready to put my '48 P-15 back on the road. It won't take much because it was my daily driver for years until I needed to find new brake drums for the front. Now I've got the drums sitting in the garage and the time to install them but I think it would be prudent to clean the carb and replace the accelerator pump, etc. The carb is a Ball & Ball (Carter) one bbl dd and I haven't a clue when it was made or for what but it's served me well over the years and I see no reason to replace it. Thing is, it has never had a tag on it stating its specific model so the boys at NAPA are having a bit of a time with finding the right kit. There are two sets of numbers stamped on the body: 0-370 5 and 6-429 I rebuilt it once before, sometime in the early '90s, and we (NAPA) were able to find a kit for it then, but I neglected to keep a record of the part number. Anybody able to steer me in the right direction? Thanks, -Randy

Gents, I'd like to wire my brake light to work on the running lights in order to create three lights instead of one, which I know hoe to do. I'd also like to wire my turn signals to work without causing the electricity from one system backing through the other. My knowledge of electronics extends to, but does not quite include, reading a resistor without a chart, but it seems that if I put a diode or two in the wires it could possibly be done. Has a thread been written on this that I could archieve? Should I fold my idea five ways and stick them where the sun don't shine? Or is the solution so simple it plum evades me? Thanks in advance. -Randy

Chet, For reasons unknown even to me, I painted my engine "Seafoam Green". So did you, and so have several other members of this forum. Did our parents all drive '61 Chevys is or is it just me who likes that color for that reason? -Randy

Try this again... I've read many posts about heat risers over the last few years, and have learned much about them excet where to get a replacement. Any suggestions? -Randy

Gents,

I used to install sliding windows in trucks when I worked at an RV shop, and one trick that has yet to be mentioned may make the job easier is silicon. Spray it around the metal and in the channels of the rubber, then wrap a piece of light electrical wire (18 ga?) inside the channel that fits to the body. Center the window (already inside its channel) and get the lip started on the bottom. With a helper applying steady pressure from the outside, go in the car and slowly pull out the wire toward the center of the window, which will bring the lip of the rubber with it. If you're having a good day it shouldn't take more than five minutes to do. I've been using silicon for years on everything from wet suits to dress pant zippers to leather coats and have never had a stain from it, but it will cause problems with paint adhesion. Presumably the car is already painted or you wouldn't be installing the windows. One last note; I've seen a lot of good rubber torn by hooks in inexperienced hands, so I always had my crew use half of a clothes pin and there weren't anymore tears. -Randy

Thanks for the threads, Gents. I found all the info I needed, and this time I'll archive it to a CD. Thanks again! -Randy

Gents, Last year there was posted a thread about painting a car with Rustoleum and a roller, and the concept intrigued me so I saved it for reference. I have two projects going at the moment, my '48 P-15 and a '67 VW Bug, and one day I noticed that, except for the extra set of door and the shape of the nose, they look remarkably alike. The chrome (stainless steel) is positioned the same, they both have the same rear windows, etc., so I thought I'd paint them the same color because they both are in need of paint. Unfortunately my computer crashed and I needed to format the HD, which means I lost the original info. Does anybody have a copy of that thread or a link to where I might find the original? I mentioned the technique on a forum at TheSamba.com (a site very much like this one but for VW's) and an interest was sparked but I've been able to give very little info to them on it. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, -Randy