Harvey Tank

Tim after the doughters comes the grand kids. good luck on the wood burning furnace.

I used copper coat on mine, booth sides works great. as for the extra hole don't worry about it. just let it stik out on the front. right of the water pump. drivers side. torque head bolt @ 65 to 75 Lbs. three times.

never ship untell you got your money. I mean after you take the check to the bank and cashed it and got green backs.

I know how you feel Jim. right after I rebuilt my 218 I drove about 12 miles, Blew it up. it took me a year to rebuild it again. and it scard me to death on the day it come time to start it. varooooooooooom. started right up, and been running fine ever sence. now every body is happy. just go for it JIM.

Glad you goter done!!!

:cool:we stayed home and just kicked back. had a nice time. the wife and I.

This summer in my neck of the woods it was a cool 90 Deg. and my newly over hauled 218 in my P20 with a 160 Thermostat it ran @ around 180 in a Parade

Thanks Jim I'll try that.

I have the rubber gromet that goes the shifting lever on the colume. PM me if you wont it. its new.

the bushing that gets stiff is @ the steering colume right where the gear shift is attached. right below the sterring whell. there is a couple of screws and pin there that allows you to remove it, and gain access to the bushing. hope this helps. tothing is worse than a stiff gear shift. maybe an oil leak you cant find or fix.

what did wrong? did I check something in my profile that I should't have? because every time I reply to a thread the little square with the check mark is there, saying " you are subscribed to this thread" how do I fix it?

I had something like that on my P20. I disconnected the linkage from the transmision, and still hard to shift. so I took the shifting lever a part from the steering column and found that there is a bushing that has an oil soaked or greas soaked wike to keep the bushing lubed. it was bone dry. hard as a rock. am I discribing this right? any body ever have this problem? anyway I just keept on oiling it untell it was free. been shifting great ever sence.

I might be wrong, but I thought in automotive we use grade 5 only.

there is a local gas station here in my area that sells non ethanol for $3.59 a gal. thats what use in P20.

Google it! type in , how to install headliners.com

a lot of pros and cones here! I made my lively hood in the HVAC industry, and I have seen a lot of changes from when I started a long time ago. I have been retired for sometime now but still help my son out now and then. a lot of things mentioned is true. I remember the old castiron heat exchangers. and match lite pilots. way back before solidstate eloctronics, when things were simple, like our old flatties. the were frendly and easy to work on. like someones signiture here on the forum! if it ant broke don't fix it. but my sugustion would be if you won't to do a up grade there are some other things to consider that wern't mentioned. make sure if you are considering A/C go with the highest SEER rating 1600 or even 1800 with a matcking furnace AFU of 95% or higher to qulify for tax credt. that way the AC will have the new R410 Refrigerant. Lennox, Carrier,Trane, Goodman. these are all good units in my openion. and as mentioned the system is only as good as the instullation. and last but not least. have you contractor do a heating and cooling load on your house, its a must. hope this helps.

we need to know what car you are working on, and where you are with restoring. on my 50 Ply P20 I did everything except off frame restore. so I was able to rewire no problem. so if you can get to all the wiring, I strongly sugest you rewire. I did my wiring one wire at a time. use the same guage and color code. Per. service manual. it takes a little time but you can do it. or you can buy the wire harness all made up. kinda spendy! and don;t forget to up grade the battry cables. other folkes here on the forum will have other advice. this is a great place to come for help. good luck on your project.

Give George Asche a call, he can fix you up with the right seal. his no. is 814 3542621

where can you get the cartrages for theis filters? whats the part no?

I rebuilt my own, got the Borg warner OD manual, and Ply service manual on Overdrive transmission out and read them from cover to cover. disassembled the OD. found the parts that were damaged, then I got the parts I needed from Geo. Asche, along with a lot of tips from him. it takes a lot of time and patience. there are a lot of peices in the OD. it workes fine except the solenoid is giveing me fits. I have to replace it. freight would have way to expencive from the Pacific N.W. to Geo. Ashe in PA.

I got mine from Terrill Machine works. their PH# is 254 8932610.

Steveplym! do you have a 6 volt OD solenoid? with 11/4" shaft.

some one here on the forum wonted a larger photo that was posted some time back, so I snaged it! I hope who ownes dosen't mind. I enlarged it. I believe its a photo of 1939 Plymouths. it would make a nice photo to put on your wall, if you are the owner of one. enjoy!!

it took me two days to get my tube out. look in the technical tips on how to remove the tube. it says to use lots of penitrating oil. then take a peice of 1/8 x1/2 flat bar make it like a chicle on one end and drive it down between tube and the block, colapsing the tub. this is what I had to do to get mine out. work on it. it will come out. good luck. Let us knowthe outcome.

when I installed my exhaust and intake manifolds I left the four bolts lose, and mounted the manifolds to the block with out the gaskets inplace. bolted it up tight. metal to metal. then tightened the four bolts. my thoughts are with out the gasgets you have the two machined sufaces well mated to geather. the gaskets thicknes could vary. then I removed the manifold, and installed the gaskets. its a little more work but I feel well worth it.