Alexander

As mentioned, turns out it was a stuck exhast valve. It took for ever to free it. had to flood the cylinder with PB blaster. all is good now and engine runs great. I am back to my main project. Swaping out the M6 semi auto trans with a 3 speed manual on the 51 coronet. Thanks for all the tips Alex

thanks guys these are all great ideas. i will look in to in to it and will let you know what i found

I seem to have suddenly lost all compression in cylinder #1 (0 PSI) adjacent cylinders show near 100 what could this be? engine ran well 3 weeks ago when started last. whats the best way to determine if its the head gasket or perhaps a valve? you thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Alex

thanks guys, so it sounds I have the correct gasket. Alex

Just received what was advertised as the correct choke gasket for 1949-52 Mpars. It is a metal composite type material just as described earlier on this board. However here is the question: What I find surprising, is that the gasket does not have a center cut out to accommodate heat transfer up in to the choke. As a result, perhaps delaying the opening of the choke when warm? With all the after market parts these days, could this be a universal gasket that is being doubled for this application? Just want to make sure I have the right gasket for the application and not impede performance. Your thoughts welcomed. Thanks Alex

Hi folks can a simple paper gasket be used for the the electric choke that sits on top of the exhuast manifold. Or does it need to be made of some sort of metal coposite material.

freeze the shaft but at the same time heat the hole. you will be surprised at how easily it will slip in by hand. once the temperature adjusts the two will lock.

Thanks guys. hopefully i can meet with you guys at some show one of these days. I am in the home stretch with my 2 cars. My goal is to make it to a local show befor the summer is out.

Thanks guys- Jim, I found the one you speak of on the map. Just about at the interstection of New rd and Foxchase Hope make it out there this weekend. Harold- do you have a street or other name that this yards goes by. cant seem to find it on the map and or internet Thanks Alex

very nice and thank you. can you post a schmetic of the modification against the radios scmetic diagram? thanks Alex

Hi folks, Anyone know of any salvage yards with in a 50 radius of Monroe NJ that has vintage cars. The few yards I checked have nothing older then 1990. Thanks, Alex

Sorry for the mixup. I was reffering to the end nut where the 2 lines attach. I think in my case that nut is pehaps pitted or no longer flat. I plan try some thread sealent this weekend. My intial query was to check what would be the best product, considering I use DOT 5 silicone fluid. Per some of the feed back, I will try permetext high temp. Thank you all, I let you know how I make out :-) Alex

Thanks Grey Beard. I really thought this would be it, but unfortuantly its not. The nut even leaks while at rest. I think I have a warped nut. I plan to use some thread sealent this weekend. Ill report back the results. Thanks

I am 100% sure its coming from the nut. I also thought the surface of the master cylinder was maybe pitted or not flat, so I decked it a bit. I have a feeling I have a bad nut, but unfortuanly I dont have another to try. I hate making making such bogus repair, but in this case I have no choice. Just wanted to check with you guys what would be the best product to try to seal those threads. Again I am using DOT5 (silicone) fluid which I think is mineral oil based. Ill try the permetext product. Thanks guys!

Very sure the leak is coming from the NUT. JB weld, that seems like a good idea. Any other thoughts on the ideal product to use? should I put some on the threads? thanks Alex

Hello guys I can’t seem to get rid of a small leak from my newly sleeved master cylinder. The leak is coming from the "Plug Nut". The NUT is super tight. I replaced the cooper washer and then tried an aluminum washer but nothing seems to help. My last resort is to try some kind of thread sealant. Question: what kind of sealant could I perhaps use that would dry hard? (I use DOT 5 Silicon fluid, compatibility may be an issue?) I thought of using Teflon tape, but I an not sure if that will work as it will prevent the nut to seat correctly adding to the leak?. Your kind thoughts and Ideas would be appreciated. Alex

Brake problem solved Turns out the issue was caused by not enough pedal free play. The piston in the master cyl was not fully letting go. I turned the shaft a few times and all became great. Thanks for all the support.

I was hoping to spend some time with the car today, but I got home late from work today. Yesterday I took the hose off and looked to see if its firm and or lends itself to becoming collapsed. Hose seems to be ok. Perhaps it’s the lack of pedal free after all? I hope to try that tomorrow. Ill report back Thanks

That was a very great right up regarding piston length. In my case I think I am ok. The shoes are even touching the cylinders when pushed back all the way. Hoses and port checked out to be ok. I will readjust the pedal free play this afternoon. perhaps that may help? Thanks Alex

Thanks, I check the hose and ports again. But with both the hose and master cyl being new, I am afraid I may need to look further. As I type this message it just dawned on me, could it be that I don’t have enough free play in the pedal? Meaning the master cyl piston is not returning back all the way. One other thing to note, the pedal is very firm.

I am stumped: After a complete rebuild, new hoses cylinders and shoes, I am having a problem with the front right wheel. It does not want to “fully” release back in to home position. Meaning it drags the drum considerably after I release the pedal. I checked every thing many times over. The only way I can get the shoes to go back is if I release the pressure by way of the bleed fitting. Master cyl is also new. I even replaced the check valve just in case thinking that was the problem. Could it be the brake light switch not letting the fluid back? But why would it only affect the front right wheel? All other wheels seem fine and release well. The Pads are a perhaps little on the thicker side, but I have all the anchor cams backed off completely. You thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Alex

in theory it can be done, but not advisable. if you do it, i would suggest using a diode in line with each power source. the other thought, the current (amp) draw of these small devices, cell phone, navigation is small. do you know what you 12V out put in the radio is rated at? it might have power to run what you need with out doubling the power source.

If the radio humms and you can still hear faint radio in the back ground, this is a good sign. Replacing all wax paper capacitors will usually get it going again. In rare cases you will also need to replace the electrolytic capacitor(s) too. But first replace all the wax paper caps. While at it, I would strongly recommend you replace the vibrator to a solid-state one (see link). http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/moreinfo@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?item=P-V1015P If you have more questions, keep posting and we will get you through it. These radios are not hard too fix. cheers Alex

send me an email.

after many years of frustration with DOT 3, I have converted both of my cars to DOT 5 silicon. I love it, and would not have it any other way. since I don't drive my cars often, Dot 3 would rust out my wheel cylinders very quickly causing leaks which would then ruin the paint. Now that I have switched to dot 5 I don't have such problems. the metal lines can be reused if you flush them with alcohol (wood alcohol or denatured can be used). Some even have had luck reusing all the rubber parts, but they need to be washed very good.