Alexander
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Everything posted by Alexander
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Thank you for for your informative feedback. I think I will go with directlift. they seem to be very safe, and are priced well. cant wait to get it!! Thanks Alex
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Dennis Thank you for pictures. It was very interesting to see what was involved in set one up. I guess i should just bite the billet and get one.
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Tim thanks for the feedback. I contacted directlifts. its true, they do have great prices. they wanted $1850 delivered to my door. I guess thats not too bad, however its a little more than i want to spend at the moment. I was hoping to maybe find a cheaper one. Did you buy the rolling jack too? Yours 220 or 110? how hard was it to install (2 man job)? did you have to shim the colums? Thanks Alex
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I have been Looking for a car lift all over the internet and cant find one for less then $1600. Any chance someone know where I can find one for about $1000? used would be fine. Looking for something like this. Thanks Alex
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please email me some pics of what you have thanks avezbakiyev@yahoo.com
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Thank you shel bizzy for the clarification. 5500 still seems like a very low production run. I bought the car a few months ago, but have not had much time to finish her off. It was a frame off restoration that was not competed by the original owner. If all goes weill I hope to have her finished with by July. Normspeed, the black vert you posted looks like a 54 or 55. beautiful car, but not exactly what I have. The following is the only photo I can find of a 1951 dodge coronet (actually this is a 1952 but they look the same). cheers & thank you for all the support! Alex
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1951 dodge coronet convertible was a rare car. from what I understad only 1500 were made. I searched the internet high and low and cant find anyone who has one except for me.
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what ever process you use make sure to heat the block and not the broken stud. The idea that that when you heat something it will expand. heating the block while keeping the stud cool will expand the threads. Note: This effect holds true only while heat is applied. The matrial goes back to its orginal size as it cools. If you dont have access to a welder, you can cut a slot in to the stud and then try to unscrew it while heating the block.
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Point well taken. I guess ill scratch the idea of adding body mounts. In keeping with the original look, the car has bias ply tires. I know the shocks were changed, but I am not sure what kind they are. Ill have to check in to that. Thanks again! Alex
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thank you Bob and the others. I guess I dont need them. I wonder if I should still add them to get a softer ride. Alex
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Wow, interesting point. I had no idea that convertibles in many cases did not have body mounts. If anyone can futher confirm this, It would be greatly apprictaed. Thank you, ALex
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As some may know I recently picked up a 1951 dodge coronet convertible that was frame off restored. while checking the car and getting it ready for the road I noticed that the car did not have rubber body bushings. Looks like the chassis mounts directly to the body with out any rubber insulator. On my P15 there is an upper and lower insulator. was this missed during the restoration or do these cars not need them? Does any one have an extra set they want to sell? Thanks Alex
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do you have the contact information. I might be interested in the car. Thanks
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your best bet is to remove the head and drill out the plugs. if you have a drill press it will be a piece of cake. cheers! Alex
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First try to isolate the generator being the problem. What does your Ampere meter show when the car is running? When you throttle the engine, the amp meter should move towards the positive side. If that happens then you know that your generator is probably OK. If the generator checks out to be OK, then it’s probably a bad battery or bad volt regulator. If the amp meter always shows positive when driving (meaning a charge) then its likely you have a bad battery. Hope that gives you some direction.
