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Hey Pete, aren't you being a bit modest??? Nearly everytime there is a question regarding hopping up a flat 6 on the hamb, there is a reference to your site and your engine. So that gang of misinthropes give you mad props. (well deserved I might add) I scan the hamb fairly regularly, I look for those folks with early mopars who are asking questions. Many times I encourage them to visit here and ask the questions here as well. They are a colorful bunch of characters, but like this group seem to be, with a few exceptions, very supportive of each other and their projects. There is some amazing stuff being driven by Hambers. granted they can be a little offputting if you stray off topic but I think they are just protecting their turf against interlopers. I have seen quite a few names and cars from this forum over there. Sometimes the flame chains are well deserved and usually pretty funny. Its kinda like a mad bout of ribbing on the guy in the garage who does a stoopid, or engages his mouth before engaging his brain. Taking the salt shaker and considering the source are good bits of advice when visiting. The one thing I have noticed is that my posts usually kill a thread. Perhaps they are stupified at my ignorance.

Fellow hereabouts has an early F 100 Pickup with a Slant 6 and Tflite. Has a clifford intake with a 4bbl and dual exhaust. Says it runs real nice. Certainly gets a lot of second takes when the hood is open.

This is basically for the invisible guys in the northeast, but since it is March, and spring is just around the corner (even if the corner seems 30 miles away) the Spring Show and Swap meet in Rhinebeck, NY is two months away. So......How many of the illustrious members of this forum are planning to attend. Good show, decent swap, 2 days Street rods, hot rods and customs on Saturday, Antiques and Classics on Sunday. May 5 & 6. They have shown the great good taste of having a Plymouth Convertible on the web site. http://www.rhinebeckcarshow.com/ http://www.dutchessfair.com/html/calendar_year_of_events.html

This is basically for the invisible guys in the northeast, but since it is March, and spring is just around the corner (even if the corner seems 30 miles away) the Spring Show and Swap meet in Rhinebeck, NY is two months away. So......How many of the illustrious members of this forum are planning to attend. Good show, decent swap, 2 days Street rods, hot rods and customs on Saturday, Antiques and Classics on Sunday. May 5 & 6. They have shown the great good taste of having a Plymouth Convertible on the web site. http://www.rhinebeckcarshow.com/ http://www.dutchessfair.com/html/calendar_year_of_events.html

the original under coating was a darl gray with a bluish cast semi gloss finish.

Your Dad was right, it's a keeper. Great lines, hope it gets to 1 million miles. Great memorial to your father.

Sweeeeet. Just the thing for long road trips.

Not 100% sure regarding 60 vintage stuff, but the earlier ones have a capped hole that you need to grease by hand. Using a greas gun will force the grease past the outer seals. Another cause is not necessarily failed seals, but a plugged vent that allows pressure to build due to heat, then the grease will also get pushed past the seals. I might clean everything up, assure the differential vent is free, and give it a go rather than assuming the seals are bad. Some folks will take the plugs out of the outer lube points install zerks and use a gun, this will definately over pressure the seals.

You can also upgrade to Lincoln Versailles rear disc brakes on those rearends.

Check the lamp units for good grounds and clean and tight connections. If you have a bulb that is mising or burnt out, you will get the same type of symptom. These circuits seem to be really sensitive to changes and or differences in resistance in the circuit. I would bet if you clean everything up, and make the grounds all good, your problem will likely right itself.

You shouldn't need to polarize if the components are not new. To test your generators output, simply ground the field terminal temporarily with a jumper wire. With the field grounded the genny should put of full charge with the engine running. If you can do this with an assistant to monitor the amp gauge this is suggested. Do not run the truck in this fashion this is only a test. If your gauge jumps to full charge the genny is good. If not the fault is likely in the votage regulator. May be as simple as stuck points inside regulator. If you get no charge with the jumper attached to ground, th likely culprit is brushes. Easy to change them NAPA has them for about 12 or 15 bucks.

Remember you are dealing with a low compression, long stroke motor. They produce a lot of torque. Most of the folks who have driven them will tell you they will pull in 3rd gear from 15 mph on up, and from 40 to 60 are probably just as quick as some modern cars. Also keep in mind that the roads when they were built allowed and average speed of probably 45 mph, with lots of stop and go, as such they were geared accordingly. So with this in mind, the best set up for current conditions is more compression,( a combination of up to .070 from the head and block will still run on regular) better breathing, dual exhaust or a low restriction system seem to be very beneficial. Gearing the rear end for todays highway speeds while allowing the the engine to be on its torque curve is also a good idea. 3.23 or 3.55 seems to be good consensous ratios.

Above the generator or alternator there is a casting boss on the block just below the cylinder head. This area will have a number stamped into it. Post this number along with the part number from the data plate on the distributor. It was very common for these engines and vehicles to have had engines swapped between models when the original went bad. Rather than rebuilding it it was easier and quicker to find a doner from any number of sources, and plopping it in and runnig that one till it died. Very common in the days of non detergent oil, not very effective oil and air filters, and driving on dirt roads that these engines were down and out at 50000 miles so swaps were common.

There is a gas pedal on Ebay currently, check Neal Riddle for the rocker clips. I believe his contact info in in the parts suppliers links. Give your rusty ones a 3 or 4 day soak in Vinegar. The rusty ones might clean up well enough to use. You can also skip a couple and the rocker will stil be on solidly.

Ya know, I think it looks beter as a snow mobile than it did as a car. Is it still powered by the Morris Garage "A" engine????

Personally I allways appreciate a well framed photo. That roll of paper towels really sets off the photos subject.

Glad you will have him road worthy, maybe we will have an opportunity to get together this driving season.

Mine was knocking at idle also, a little massaging with the pry bar quieted it down. Did you get out of the ice box??? Noticed you were in single digits last night.

Napkins just don't cut it for real BBQ. Years ago I wnet with a group of folks to Bryant's BBQ in KC, before heading out to a Royal's game. Beef, Pork or Turkey all rotating in a big Ferris Wheel type oven, they pick a hunk of wuor choice out of the oven, slap it on the slicer, shave off a generous protion, place it on a couple of those pulp board chinete style segmented paper plates, on top of a slice of white bread, put a spoon full of pan dripping on it cover it with another piece of white bread, give you a heaping handful of french fries, a mound of cole slaw, you beverage and send you on your way. Bryant's is located in a double store front type building with the kitchen in back of one side seating in the front, and across a slooping hall way seperating the halves of the building another seating area. The hallway ramps down to the restrooms located in the rear of the building. I finished my food and went to the restroom. One of the byproducts of the BBQ process is aeriated animal fat which deposits itself liberally throughout the premises. That ramp was so slippery my sneakers were literally loosing traction and I was sliding down the incline to the men's room. Had to use the hand rail to assend the hall back up to the store front. but best BBQ I have had!!!! Napkins wouldn't stand a chance in there.

Like brakes the friction material is the key component. As long as there is material above the rivets holding it on you should be good to go. the second consideration is the condition of the springs and their mounts. Assure they not broken and are snug and the area around them is not showing stress cracks. And lastly the condition of the area that slips over the splines on the tranny input shaft. If everthing looks reasonable you should be good to go for reusing what you have. Here is a good shot of a new one and one that has seen better days.

Nelson's passing has reminded me or my mortality as well as others. This community has lost a valued member. Rather than letting his memory fade, I think it would be nice if the forum could start a In Memorium section to the members list. It might include the member's date of passing, their profile and a link to his or her posts.

you might try contacting the folks with parts and cars listed in the for sale section. or using the one from the other door as a pattern to have a new one made.

My deepest condolences to you and your family. Nelson was indeed a breath of fresh air to this community. His contributions to the discussion here were an important part of the group's personality. I know I and others will miss his insights. In this time of great sadness please take heart that our thoughts are with you and yours. The sadness will pass and you will be left with the wonderful memories of the moments that made up his life and your's. Greg G Central New York

The Decals are accurate reproductions of ones found on our engines. However the Full Flow oil filter decal although seen on most of the cars at shows nowadays ,is correct only for the Full Flow of the Big Block motors. Most of the others have the bypass type filter. Another pissibility for the pin hole repair is a small sheet metal screw with a dab of silicone under the head. Had several oil pans repaired with so many screws it they looked like they had the chicken pox. Driven from the outside in at the site of the pin hole, held for years.

Well, my 99 cherokee with the 194 Hp FI 4.0 6 with auto and 4 WD drive in summer ( don't try to figure winter gas) gets about 19 to 20 in daily driving and 22 on a trip. It has a pretty high COe of drag, like pushing a barn door through the air. weighs in at 3700 lbs or more. It gets to 60 in under 9 seconds. I was just watching motor week and they were doing a test of some current subcompact, I can't even remember the brand of. On the test track, it did 0 to 60 in just over 7 seconds, the 1/4 mile in 14.6 @ 102 MPH. When I was 15 or 16, one of the older guys down the street was regularly Drag Racing his 63 1/2 Ford Galaxie with a 406 4 speed. His times and speeds with cheater slicks were about the same. But he did not get 34 mpg in daily driving or 37 on the highway. So these days HP per Cubic inch is way up there. If the old 406 was anywhere close to today's engines it would be packing about 600 HP. I believe BMW has a current v8 that is putting out almost 1.5 Hp per CU IN. in highway trim and gets over 20 MPG in a nearly 4000 lb vehicle. 4.8 L (298 cu in) 360 HP its 0 to 60 is in the high 4 second range, I remember when that was startling acceleration even for stuff like 750 Nortons, Triumphs, and Ducatis.