greg g

Go to the Graham Paige club website and then go to the tech section. Their brakes are very similar to MOPAR. There is a home made gauge shown being used, and a verbal how to on how to make the gauge. Some plywood, some nuts, screws and some threaded rod comprise the list of needed materials. http://www.graham-paige.com/

Don't recognize the knob but was this the guy who invented sticky notes?????

No only is it humid, but this region gets about the same raifal as Seattle plus we AVERAGE over 150 inches of snow a winter. Winter roads are paved with salt, and in in some locals a mix of sand and or stone dust or in times past cinders and clinkers from coal fired electric generating plants. So the salt mixed with the sand got deposited into nooks and crannies, sits there hold moisture and does it metal eating finest even far int spring or summer everytime it rains. Mopars around here got perforated at an alarming fast rate specially those made during the Korean War and through the mid 60's. My father's 1960 Dodge Dart Seneca had rust bubbles on the fenders over the headlights after the second winter. dog legs, and panels behind the rear wheels were nearly gone in 63. Trunk wheel arches were bad at the same time. Fellow up the street had a 59 Plymouth and it had the same symptoms. Our nearby city has the nickname of Salt City based on salt production from brine wells during the 1800's, but most everybody around here thinks it is for the salt the various DOTs and DPW's still use during the winter. of course everybody want to drive on bare roads 10 minutes after it dumps 15 inches of snow in 2 hours. The average life of a non stainless steel exhaust system here abouts is 18 to 24 months. Poor metal beasts don;t stand a chance!!!!

Shel evaluating DeSoto parts. And behind the liscence plate sided shed, an apparent attempt at using pyramid power to repair engines. Piled in a nearly perfect pyramid and with the corner of the base oriented toward magnetic north, this techique allows for engines placed at the bottom, to acquire good parts from those stacked above them. In the center soon ready for harvest are a 265 Mopar Flathead, a 53 Oldsmobile Rocket, and a 331 Hemi. When the stars and planets align, these engines will be plucked from the healing chamber ready for installation........

she probably took the camera back and complained that it only ever takes the same picture............

Seller near Richmond, Va. has a bunch of stuff 3 or 4 flat 6 engines, transmissions, radiators and other stuff of interest to members of this forum. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtauruscrew

So Shel, do you suppose the old fellow made it through the winter. Hope so! Planning a trip when the snow clears....

Lots of 40's vehicles. Story of course a bit sappy......

Lots of 40's vehicles. Story of course a bit sappy......

good luck getting it going. Pretty simple and straight forward. very forgiving of conditions and will still run pretty good. Brakes are tricky. Welcome aboard and ask away.

This one is in Georgia, looks like it has some interesting playmates also. Looks like about 80 miles or so form Tim Adam's neck of the woods. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1946-Dodge-cabover_W0QQitemZ140077448769QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6197QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here are a few answers. Steering is Armstrong Power, the more you steer, the more you get Arm Strong, the easier the steering is. If the car has been sitting a while ll the grease fittings in the front suspension are probably in need of fresh grease, this and properly inflated tires will make the stationary steering easier to a point, but never effortless. Brakes, did you check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder? the access for this is under the floor mat/carpet about where your right foot falls when sitting in the driver's seat without reaching for the pedals, low fluid could be giving you an ineffective pedal (as well as a lot of age related stuff) but a full fluid reservoir may go a long way to giving you more effecive braking. Do notover fill the reservoir, as there should be some space for expansion and fluid return. Your car should idle in gear againt the fluid drive with the brake applied. The idle should be about 450 to 500 rpm, pretty low by todays standards, There is also a dashpot on the carburetor that will keep the idle up a bit against the fluid drive. there is an electrical connection on this device, make sure the connection is clean and tight. ASLO VERY IMPORTANT, when the car is in gear, with fluid drive it will not have the compression braking that a regular standard shift car will have in gear, as the connectio to the engine is through the fluid and not mechanical. If you park the car on a grade, make sure your parking brake is working or the wheels are blocked with a brick or piece of wood or your car will roll away from you. The Defrost takes place of the modern heater contro setting designated by the windshield with squiggly lines pictograph. It is a cable connected to a flap in the heater duct which will divert some air or all air toward the thin slots at the top of the dashboard. This warm air if given enough time will heat up the windshield glass to melt snow and ice or remove moisture from the inside (thing about 4 or 5 days running) There should be no noicable smoke fromthe exhaust. It may go away after some running after the rings reseat from years of in activity. ( don;t count on it) Some hints about smoke color and smell. Black smoke indicated excess fuel, and smell like gas,indicating a rich fuel air mix, usually caused by the choke not pulling off all the way. or a reterded spark advance. The choke is the top butterfly in the carburetor. when the engine is up to temp, it should be fully vertical. If a manual choke, make sure the cable opens it all the way. If automatic, is should close on a cold engine when you step ont eaccelorator pedal and stay closed until the engine begines to warm up and the thing on the manifold heats up and pulls the buterfly open. Bluish white smoke usually indicates oil in the cylinders. It will smell like burning oil, and may increase or decrease with engine speed. Oil in the cyliders can be caused by worn rings, and or worn valve guides and seals. Worn valves and seals usually manifests itself by bellowing a bunch of smoke on startup and after idling a bit or after going around a sharp turn as oil will be pulled in at low speed due to high intake vacuum,then blown out as the engine speeds up, a steady amount of smoke at all running conditions usually indicates oil getting pushed past worn rings by crankcase pressure or sucked past them on the intake stroke. Voluminous clouds of sweet smelling white smoke is antifreeze or water trunig to steam. This is usually the symptom of a bad head gasket or less likely a crack in the block or head adjacent to a cylinder. You base line information will come from tried and true trouble shooting processes and tests. Do a compression check of the cylinders Do a vacuum test of manifold vacuum Do a static timing procedure assure the points in the distributor are clean and properly gapped Install some new and properly gapped spark plugs Assure you vacuum advance on the distributor is functioning As far as you amp gauge reading, It will be zero if the battery is fully charged as the generator has nothing to do till the battery charge goes down. Check this by turning the headlights or signals with the engine running and idling. The needle shoud go to discharge (-) when the light are turn on and then go to (+) when you give it some gas. The signal light should cause it to go (-) when they flash and back to 0 when they are off. If you have no signals, tap the brakes and the needls should react to the brke lamp coming on. Also make sure your main battery cables are nice stout one at least as thick as your little finger. Lots of time over the years these get replaced with thin 12v style cables. 6V systems are based on current flow and skinny 12V wires won't carry the needed current. Also make sure they are clean and tight at all connections. If your acquaintence at work is a motor head he should be able to help you with the compression gauge, and vacuum gauge, and the static timing procedure. Also go to the host page of this forum and read all the techincal tips, all the parts lists, and the general specifications page. alot of good basic information there. http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/framesets/welcomeframeset.html Good luck and enjoy. Sounds like you have an good solid car for you to minister to.

I'm not familiar with the Export numbers, here P is plymouth, C crhysler, S deSoto, D dodge and T truck, with I and some other used to designate industrial and other stationary applications. So DP isn't one probably in our books. However, there is a way to measure your stroke, and ther by determine your displacment. On the head over #6 cylinder there is a small square headed pipe plug screwed in adjacent to the spark plug. You can remove that and by inserting an 8 inch long piece of stiff wire through the hole, ride the piston through its journey and there by measure the stroke. Do this by truning the engine over either by hand or with the coil wire out and withthe starter, and measure the travel of the wire. Once you have that measurement, you can check it against the manuals and determin the displacement. Remember to reinsert the plug before trying to restart the engine. Hope this helps, if no one has the DP code at least this is a start. Nice looking car, how is summer in NZ???

1960 was the first year of e brake on the rear axle. I remember dad complaining about the new fangled thing on his 60 Dodge Dart. Couldn't get used to the pedal hanging there.

Nitrisystems, weight watchers, Jenny Craig........ Didn't some P15's have an extra leaf in the drivers side spring set?????

Should mention the definative piece for getting the coupes right. If you have a small piece of flat glass for the rear window you got a bizzy coupe. If you have a larger piece of curved glass you got a club coupe.

So how rare can they be if they show up chopped and slamed in the Netherlands???? This shot pirated from Fred Marse's Photobucket album.

I believe it was WC Fields who said "In my right hand back pocket, I always carry a flask of medicinal brandy, in case of snake bite!!! In my left hand back pocket I always carry a small snake."

Easy answer back seat club coupe, no back seat or perhaps folding jump seats Buisness coupe like this......

Well that's good enough then.....I have found that face to face meetings with the folks on this forum are always positive, lively, informative, and worthwhile.

Thought there was suposed to be minutes, transcriptions, and pictures........

There was a AMC Pacer front crossmember on e Bay. These are basically the same satup as the M II but are contained on a very stout bolt on crossmember. R & P. Disc Brakes shocks and springs all in one easy to deal with bundle. MIght try to locate one at you local dismantlers is this is to far away. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Pacer-Complete-Disc-Brake-Front-Cross-Member_W0QQitemZ180077541503QQihZ008QQcategoryZ42609QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

looks like a good neighbor.

Looks like a little, Ghia or Bertone design crest on the fender. Gotta admit those Italian designers had a knack for "timeless" design. From the Ghia design website; In 1950 Fiat had asked Chrysler in America for assistance in the training of its technicians in the latest mechaning and assembly techniques. In return, Chrysler decided that it lacked the syling and bodybuilding expertise that was found in Turin, and established contacts with Pinin Farina and Ghia.

How about some pics of your project. Interested to see how it goes.