Jerry Roberts

Reg , The extension pin is used for Ford and Mercury rear shoes only , it goes on the dial pin . And the spacer ... the instructions say a spacer is provided to speed the operation of placing the gage on the spindle , I don't know just how it fits yet , perhaps over the end of the spindle .

Skip , I paid $10 . I found it yesterday at the local flea market and it was complete with the exception of the instructions . The seller said that he wanted $10 so I didn't dicker .

Thanks a lot , that came out of my printer in readable condition .

Put your finger on the plate that gets moved with the vacuum advance and move it while looking at the wire that you just installed . Are either of the end connectors on that wire now touching the side of the distributor and grounding ?

I bought a Ammco Brake Guage model 1750 and need a copy of the instructions please .

I think the problem is solved . I used a lawnmower throttle cable as a auger in the gas line that runs into the gas tank . I first tried to push the cable in by hand and it wouldn't go very far , then I hooked the cable to a drill and it went through . I think the electric fuel pump was squeeking because it couldn't pull enough gas , and the engine stumbled because it wasn't getting enough gas when it needed it the most , at highway speed . I drove it today and it was fine but I will keep an eye on it . The gas tank was cleaned and coated by Re-New (sp?) about 8 years ago . I rounded the auger tip so that the auger would be less likely to tear up the coating in the tank .

FMSPEED49 , I will touch the water pump if it acts up again to see it the bearing has heated up . That could be the answer the the strange squeek .

Nornspeed , I thought about that idea of a vacuum guage hooked up while driving but came to the conclusion that the vacuum would be down for sure when the motor is stumbling and that wouldn't tell me anything . Yesterday I changed the manifold gaskets and didn't see anything wrong with the old ones . I haven't driven the vehicle afterwards , just started the engine . I looked for loose parts flapping around down the throat of the carburator and didn't see anything loose . I'll see how it drives today .

Sometimes you can drill a hole in the center for a stout sheet metal screw , install the screw part way and then pull on the screw head with a claw hammer .

When driving at freeway speed , after traveling 15 miles , I hear a squeeking noise comming from the engine compartment and then after a couple of minutes of this noise the engine stumbles . It sounds like a loose body pannel and is always followed by the stumble and the stumble lasts until my speed is decreased . Is this sound made by a leaking intake manifold gasket ? The engine runs fine at all other times and shorter distances on the freeway . Engine temperature is fine too . Vacuum reading is good too . Engine is the 218 . The carb is fastened tight and the manifold bolts are tight . I am thinking of pulling the manifolds and replacing the gaskets .

If you have an air compresser , hook it up to the gas filler neck . All you need is a few pounds of pressure . Fill a spray bottle with soapy water and spray your connections and look for bubbles . Spray around the sender too . This method is a lot easier that possibly having to drain your tank of gas for repairs .

OK Thanks guys , the third time is a charm . I bought the truck , 1941 Plymouth , eight years ago for $2K and have invested another $8K into it plus labor . The truck was already painted ( mostly ) when I got it but most everything was broken . The only rust was surface rust on the the fenders and running boards underneath . I treated rust and painted the undersides of those pieces . The rest of the undersides were already painted . I pulled the engine 1 1/2 years ago and had it rebuilt for $2500 . I installed a 2.94 rearend from a Dakota and the truck keeps up with the traffic on the freeway . It is an every day driver . Three speed transmission is stock with 2nd and 3rd syncronized . Engine is 218 from a 1939 dodge car . I also put on a new tailgate that was the only body part that was banged up .

http://s164.photobucket.com/albums/u30/spotty bucket/?action=view&current=oldtruck2-11-08.jpg

Here is a link to a picture of my truck . ( perhaps it will come through ) http://i164.photoob

Which of the manifold studs get the tapered nuts ? I noticed that VPW sells the nuts in sets of 4 , so I am guessing that only 4 studs get tapered nuts . Do they go on the studs that are on the outer ends of the exhaust manifold ?

The above phone number should read ; 828-327-9358 The elderly lady who has been answering calls at the wrong number mentioned that she has been getting a few mis-dialed calls .

In the above picture of the Elmer Stange engine , that should be a 1960 Chrysler industrial engine 265 c.i. he is using 3.9 rear gears ( as per the literature I received with the installation kit . ) To Ed in the twin cities ; I sent a return message to you , need your address .

Steve , You can often tell which one is clicking by running the engine and sticking a feeler guage into each gap , one by one , and listening .

Ed , It has been a few years since I saw the picture but it looked like a short quarter inch thick piece of steel laid on top of the crossmember and welded . As to if there was enough room to still be able to pull the new transmission separately , that is a good question . You might be able to ask Tom Langdon and he might refer you to his brother in law for an answer . I had emailed Mr . Stange reguarding what he was going to do for an emergency brake and he didn't yet have an answer . Perhaps if the crossmember is riveted in place , replaceing the rivets with bolts would allow movement enough for transission removal .

Ed , I have seen a picture of a T5 in a 1939 - 1947 dodge truck . There was a large notch taken out of the crossmember and a chunk of steel welded in to replace the strength . If I remember correctly the truck belonged to the brother in law of the owner of Langdons Stovebolt , his last name is Stange and first name is probably Elmer , Tom helped him with the conversion . I bought the kit to install the T5 in my truck but decided to go with a 2.94 rear instead because of the emergency brake . If you decide to put in the T5 your truck , can have my kit and give me something else down the road .

Emery cloth is probably too coarse . Crocus cloth is fine ( pun intended ) . I had mine sleeved with brass . Cost was $75 and then the cost of the kit so the total expense was less than a new master cyclinder . Sleeve done by Sierra Specialty , ph. 530-283-1886 . It took about 3 weeks .

Fred and Ed , A suggestion ; Fred orders the new sender from Roberts , If the holes are in the " wrong " spots , he is in good shape . If the holes are in the " right " spots he trades senders with Ed who will now will have a correctly fitting sender also . Or do these senders have different electrical windings than the car versions ? In searching my foggy brain as to how I fitted my sender that the mounting holes were wrong , I remembered grinding the heads off one or two rivets , punching out the rivets , and turning the mounting position so the unit was about one hole off from being straight frount to back . Fast and easy .

When I was a kid and someone had done me wrong , I wanted to get even . My mother always told me that two wrongs don't make a right . In Freds case it looks like two wrongs are going to make a right . PS , I have no idea if Roberts is still selling these senders that have the holes reversed .