desoto1939

I do not understnad how the gasket affect the tightening of the air clearner onto the top of the air horn onthe carb. The cleaner fits down over the openoing and arounf the air horn opening. The cleaner is then sitting on the gasket. I do understand that the gasket has ataper but when you thighten the bot ont he air cleaner it should compress arounf the metal top of the air horn or are you saying that sine the gasket is tapered that the taper is filling the gap so the bolt then tighen the air cleaner. i have a 39 Desoto that does not use the gasket and I have a very tight air cleaner on my unit and it has never fallen off in over 22 years of ownership. Just trying to get an education on this topic. rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

P24: How do you know that the distance betwwen the drum and the toe and also heel are the same distance? Yes the Ammco tool or the MT19 miller gage will set up the shoes at the proper distance at the toe and heel. The two tools insure that the shoes ar inteh proper postion to the arc of the shoe and also drum. I have both tools and I do rent out the Ammco tool since it is a lot cheaper to mail because of the weight of the miller tool which weights in around 30-40 lbs. Contact me regarding the ammco tool. Also go to the tech Archives and look at the two powere point presentation That I did for the AACA convention here in Phila. Get the air out of the system first that is very important. Then we can start with the brake adjustment. rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I looked in my 36-42 desot master parts book and the desotos did not start to use this gasket until 1942 and uses the same part number. Would this have anything to do with the fluid drive now beoing available onthe cars. This is just a quess do not know why they would require a gasket but just want to confirm the number. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Check out resotation supply. I saw these same styled clips at their flea market spot in Hershey. They have a great selection of trim clips and also get a copy of their catalog. The pictures of the clips in their catalog are acutal pictures of the clip so you can matchup with what you have to see if it will work. here is the link File Format: PDF/Adobe Acrobat 148 Minnow Creek Lane. Windber, PA 15963. Our Pledge. RESTORATION SPECIALTIES & SUPPLY, INC., is dedicated to the Antique, Classic, Vintage and Street Rod ... This get you to their online catalog with pictures www.restorationspecialties.com/webcatalog.pdf Rich desoto1939@aol.com

Mike: In your noumerous posting over the past several months you have been asking about NOS parts and for information on the car. In several of the posting and replys the forum members had asked what your plans were for the car, a very clean driver or a complete ground up and to be jusged at a POC or AACA event like Hershey. Basically you stillhave not decided at this point. I am not trying to get on your case. I know you went to Hershey this past OCtober and during your visit I guess you got to see alot of restored cars that have to be upto the AACA standards. You did see some run of the mill cars and also some of the classics. Your car and also my 39 I consider the run of the millcar and this is not toput yours or anyone else car down. The car cost in the lower price ran when built and I hope is was when you purchased it. The Classics, PAckard, Rolls, Cadillacs etc of the 20,30 and some of the 40 etc will bring a return on your investment so long as someone is willing to pay the price for owning a number 1 AACA car. Also remember that these AACA Senior winning cars are never driven, they are trailor queens. THey are driven out of the enclsoed trailor and onto the show field and then put back into the trailor for the next show. The owners can not afford to get them dirty, have any oil on the frame, pait chips, scratchs and or any imperfections in the car. A total look at me car and some guys get their kicks out of this while others get their kicks out of restoring a car so they can then have the pleaseure of drving the car and just enjoying the experience. If you want to go to the time to do a full ground up resto that is great and I applaud your for doing it if you decide to. If you go for AACA jusding this is how it works. THe car has to be perfect and look as if it came out of the dealers showromm just today for astarting point. Perfect in every way undercarraige, engine, interior, glass, chrome, paint on so and so on. The first time out or at at least one show the highest you can get is a 1st Junior you can not go for a Senior AACA award. You need to have won the 1st Junior and then come back to the next AACA regional show and then go for the Senior. During this entire time the car basically can not be driven so as not to do any damage in the total appearance. The car would have to be trailored and basically in an enclosed trailor. Factor in the cost of enclosed trailor and truck to pullthe car to the show the cost of getting to the event and back over the year to two years. Allthis for a car that might get 20K for all of your work and has been sitting idle for two plus years. After getting the Senior then do you want to go for preservation award or go for a Grand NAtional Award and the car still can not be driven. So the big question is how do you and again you wan to use the car? Only you can answer that question, but I have tried to layout the jusding process for you if you decided to go the AACA and or POC route. For me the cost and expensive was not worth the time and I wanted to drive my car so I cleaned up the frame and undercarraige to look presentable. remember in AACA judginf there can not be any sign of grease, oil leakage, dirt, lube point can not have grease comeing out of the tierod ends etc. So you decide. I hope this helps and like I stated before this is just information to help you decide on which way to proceed. Good luck. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Mopar had a straight 8 flathead inthe 1930 DeSoto and then they went back to the straigh 6 flathead. They kept the flat head 6's up unitl the mid 50's when the early Hemi came into vogue. Also when you look at the Airflows for DeSoto and Chrylser the cars basically look the same, the biggest differnece is that the Chrysler offered the inline 8 in the Chrylser version of the Airflow and Desoto only offered the flat 6. Also as stated in the prior posts the Big 6 engine produced more HP than the early Ford V8's. The Big 6 Chryselr/Desoto produced 92 HP where the Ford V* produce around 82-85. If you every looked at the early For V* you will notice that the Dizzy were is such a bad position that you could not really time the car because you would get your fingers and or hand cut off because of the fan blade. You had to send the dizzy out to have it put on a special machine to get it setup properly. The ford V8 engine alwasy lloked great but the flat 6 out performed them. evey the Small 6 in the Ply/Dod had more HP than the ford V* which came out in 33 for the Ford. BAck in 1936 Chrylser took a Desoto Airflow across the country from NY to San Fran and they average around 22-25 MPG. Consider that they did not have any Interstate highways and when you were away from the major cities wyou were sometimes traveling on tar and chip roads and not in the best of conditions. There were no turnpikes just good old country roads. Also this was a cast iron block with standard point and condensor ignition. bia ply tires old style as we know of today. But the octane rating of the gas was much higher then as compred to what we have today with the ethinil combination. The Octane and the comperssion ration were al major contributing factors back then. Also rememebr that the cars weighted in at 3000+ lbs These numbers were very impressive so the big question is why do we not get that and better mileage as a whole with our new cars that have the same wieght and with better tires and electronics. The gas and compression ration comes into play and now we have modern highspeed roads if you want to call some of the pot holed roads superhighways to say the least. But all in all the inline Mopar 6 out performed the Ford V8. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Rich Hartung

I recently installed composite deck material on my deck. You should read the information from the specific manuafacturer. They basically recommend that the spacing between your frame or joists should be 16 inch on center and if useing the material on a diagonal then 12 inch on center. If you plan on standing on the bed and the bracing is greater than 16 inch on center you might have an issue and the boards might not support the wieght and then cause some injury. This would be very dangerous if you had several people in the box and then it colapased and or even if you had somethin in the box and were going down the road and the material then fell onto the roadway. Just make sure the composite boards are supported properly. They even tell you that you can not use this material to support the decking basically it can not be used as your joists. rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

In Pa the antique plate is a one shot deal and you own it forever and you can xfer to another car or give it to the next owner. Also in PA we do not have to have the antique cars inspected since they figure we only trqvel in such limited mileage. What about in other states. rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Powerhouse: I had something along the same type of accident with my 39 desoto. I was at a gas staion getting air inthe tires. I backed up and hit a metal pipe that was sticking up about three foot and was not visable looking out the windows. Sicne I have antique car insurance I called my carrier and fileld a claim. I took it to a body shop and they priovided a written estimate of 1500 to fix and repaint the fender. i sent the estimate to my carrier, Grundy, within several days I had a check for the 1500. They did not ask for pictures and did not send a person to look at the car. If you have a good carrier they do understand that these things haapen and they will send you the money to get if fix correctly. Grundy did not drop me or even increase my coverage like a regular car insuracne company does. If you have been a good customer then file the claim and then go for the orginal parts to fix the car like it should be fix. You can contact me at desoto1939@aol if you want to discuss. This is why we have Antique car insurance and not having it under a regular car insuracne carrier. You want a antique car insurane plan that has a stated value and not a plan like a regular car that the car goes down in value as it get older. Go with a specilaity carrier, JC Taylor, Condon and Skelly, Grundy, etc. Also as you start to have the car restored and chtome work done and or interior work done always send your carrier some pictures. This is good for them so they then know the condition of the car and they then willnot question any claims. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I would suggest that you take several digital pictures of the car so you have extra proof of the car. Take one of the car, then one the front door piller that has the serial number and plate attached. MAke sure you get good pictures of the car with the car door open so they can verify that it is the same car. Also the Body number plate onthe firewall and of the engine number on the block if you can get a good picture of this area. Digitals are great since you have an instant picture and you can send them via email. Also set your camera up so that it is set in the email mode and also one set with high reolution. Pictures are always your best proof of the data. Another option might be to get the car reqistered in a southern state that does not question the data numbers. Use the VIN number on the car and engine number. Get the registration and then have it registered in your state. This might cost some extra dollars but might make the process go smoother. This is just an idea. rich Hartung

Austin: That is great. I am glad that you now have the tool. I hope you are a member of a local club. If you are then you could do a demo or lecture onthe tool and also help someone else that might have to have their brake adjusted. Like I stated several months ago I saw the same unit that had all seven sleeves go for over $900 on ebay. This is a very hard tool to come across since it was only sold to the Mopar dealerships. The Ammco tool was the aftermarket tool that was sold to the independent garages so these will be seen more often but they are even goping for a high price as you know by looking on ebay. There is one for over $475. Great find. I would suggest that you print out the power point and even get a shop manual on the car or truck it will provide you with some good photos. Send me your home address so I can send you the word version on the tool. rich H Desoto1939@aol.com

When you get ready to do the brakes go out to the technical Archives. There are two post onthe use of the Ammco Brake gage and also the Miller Brake gage. I did this power point presentation at the AACA Antique Automobile Club of America's Convention that was here in Philadelphia PA. I have both of these tools. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Ed: Thanks for putting the powerpoint presentation in the Tech Archives for everyone to view. Greg Mentioned about making it Sticky, how can this be done do not want to lose this info. rich

Austin: I was glad that I could get you start on the job and this is what the hobby is all about. Pass on the knowledge that you have to someone else. Eyerone needs to assistance and if you have some knowledge on a topic then give it to someone else. Rich Hartung

Austin: I am glad that the miller tool worked to solve your brake adjustement. The tool does all of the work for you and takes out all ogf the guess work. Glad that the powerpoint on the tool help with the setup on the miller MTC19 Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Rockwood. If you are not sure if you have air in the line it really might be that you think you have air but you still might have a soft pedal beacuse the shoes still need to be adjusted. You might want to try to do the minor adjustement first. Just use the upper top nut that moves the halfmoom at the top of each shoe. Rotate the bolt so one shoe locks up the wheel then back off until the whell turns and you get a little drag on the shoe. Then do the other shoe on the same wheel. Do this with the other side of the car. Then do the rear. Alwasy do in matched sets fronts and then rears etc. I have found that a minor brake adjustment solves alot of soft brakes. lso look at the post on the brake adjusment powere point that was post last week of October. I can send this to you but need you home email. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com Rich Hartung

Moparbenny; Here isa picture of my stock 39 Desoto so you can droooooollllllll. Still has the factory seat covers and door panels all orther parts are still factory. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I think I have been using the 1158 with the staggered pins and mine have turn signals and I have very bright ligts and even brighter turn and brake lights. Rich Hartung

Since you are going back to 6v I would also suggest that you run a ground wire off of each headlight to insure a good ground. Grounding always very important with 6v. When the cars that had the old headlight bulbs in them and then they did the converstion over to sealed beams for the 39 and back cars they would isntallthe headlight relay. This helped to supply voltage directly to the relay instead of going to the headlight switch and then to the dimmer switch and then out to your lights. The two switchs, headlight and dimmer then just became a way of controling the lights, on/off high/low beam. The direct wiring from the supply (battery or in my case with the 39 Desoto the stater switch and batty connectiononthe stater) to the relay. The voltage ran a shoter distance to keep the volts up and then the rlay did the work. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

From looking at both units I do not think there is any major difference inthe filtering of the oil. The effiency of the filtering element is the most important part of the filter eithe sock or the drop in paper unit or the old style throwaway unit. In our modern oil filters they measure onthe filtering of the size of metals and other particles. The manufacturers list this as Microns most of the older filters that we are using list a Micron filter size of 25 -30 Microns. Sothe lower the number the better that the filter is in holding onto small particles of dirt and or metal. Here is an example from Wixx, ther filters handle an average of 25 microns. A human hair measures approx 70 microns in diameter. This might help with the understanding of the size that the oil filter will retain. So the more costly the filter I woudl assume the lower micron rating on a filter. I looked at some of the NAPA Gold 1010 filter which is use in my 39 Desoto which is a paper element that goes into the metal canisters and this has a rating of 30 Microns so something that is 1/2 the diameter of a human hair would then be retaiend by the filter. I know some owners are attaching a flexable magnet onto the outside of the metal housing to help collect and larger metal particles. I did see a demo in which some old used motor oil was placed in a glass gar and they put a mahgnet onthe side and then stirred the oil. They removed the oil and the area where the magnet was attached or taped to the jar had a retained a film of reidue or metal particles. So i guess one of these magnets might also be of some help and then when you change the oil and the filter you just wipe the inside of the canister and the metal particles are then removed at the same time. The magnet can also be used onthe spin on filters and then just take it off when you change the filter and then put it back on the new filter. Another question is are you putting oil into the spin on filter prior to putting it on the car. There are many discussions that this should be done to prevent a dry sump and to have oil inthe filter upon initial startup when the oil is changed.l Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

The venders are now selling the Airtex electric fule pump at the flea markets. If you look up Airtex on line they will list their fuels pumps. They make them in 6v and 12 v. the cost runs around $50.00. Airtex is now a major manufactor for factory fuel pumps and you can also get mechanical pumps from them for our cars. I do know that the 588 is the pump that fits my 39 DeSoto and is the replacement for the old AC588 pump. The Airtex electric pump is a real nice small unit and can be used now with the new gas with the ethinol. Here is the link to Airtex and their electric pump: http://www.airtexproducts.com/TSB/TSB-0108-01_ATX.pdf rich Hartung

Ken: i have one of these leaf spring grease tools in my tool kit for the 39 Desoto. I will post a picture of the tool. My 39 Desoto has covered springs but the left side is covered and the right side is not. From what I can tell from looking at the car the springs have never been replaced. I have a friend with a 39 Desoto and he has the same setup with only the cover on the left side. This might also have been done because of the gas tank pipe was on the left rear fender and to prevent any overspill from running down the filler tube and then onto the spring, this is just a guess not positive. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

This is the best part of the experience of owning an older car especially when you can get time with your son or even daughter when working on the car. This is the time that you get to bond with your kid and the best part about it is that they do not even know that, they are just having fun. Later on when they become a teenager and when they need to come to you because of an issue they will feel that they can talk to you. I have two daughters that haveboth helped with my car and it has been a great experience for all three of us. Also this hels to keep the hobby going strong. Take lots of pictures with your son becasue this is what he will remember in his later years and hopefuly he might have a son or daughter that might want to help work on a car. Have a great time together. rich Hartung

Austin< If you need any help with setting up the Miller MTC19 tool please feel free to contact me. It is not hard to setup but I am avilable if you have questions. I live near Phila, PA Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com 484-431-8157

Greg: Inyou last post on this topic it sounds as if you were satting that Plymouth was the part of the company that was leading the way for the Mopar cars. But in reality it was the combination of the entire Chrysler Motor Division and Chrysler Engineering that was leading the group. The entire line up of Chrysler included, inthe order of price was Chrysler, DeSoto, Dodge then Plymouth and you also later had the Chryler Imperial in there at some point in time. The Chrysler engineering was far better in the early years. Just look at the beginning in which Chrysler had juice brakes from the start. As also stated the Big 6 of the Chrysler/Desoto engines had more HP thenthe Ford V8. The Big six was putting out 92 hp vs 85HP and when you added on the Aluminum head you went upto 100HP. These flat head 6 engines were and are still being used in some heavy equipment such as in tree chippers. Chrylser was always know for their engineering but had a bad name for quality control on alot of their cars and this is what hurt them. The sad part about all of this is that now that FIAT has taken over the company you are going to see alot of the american engineering being pushed aside for foreign engineering. There has been talk that a great deal of the existing Chrylser cars are going to be replaced with Fiat models. To get back to the subject at hand, also look at the war effort from Chrysler and in the engines that were put into the Sherman Tanks and eventhe Willys Jeeps and then the Dodge Trucks that were used inthe war. Rich Hartung